How often do you replace your directional microswitches?

I’ve already greased that situation. The only time I ride the gate is the bottom half of the dragon punch ie down down towards. QCF, QCB and 2X QCFs are not ridden for obvious reasons on a square gate.

By not unnecessarily grinding.
Also look into derlin actuators

OK, I’ll ignore the stupid unnecessarily grinding comment as you clearly didn’t read my post directly above that was made 1 hour before yours.
BTW, I’m using the Kowal oversize actuator. Not sure how nylon sheds with the sanwa gate plastic vs delrin. Paradise Arcade has a .5mm oversize delrin actuator that I might try.
So far, great input guys. Greased gates and delrin actuators. Very helpful. Thank you.

I highly highly recommend that PAS .5mm actuator. I’ve tried a literal handful of actuators, and that one checks all the boxes with no compromise.

I’ve done fighter and shmup taste tests with stick n00b friends, and they pick the stick with that thing over stock every time. Matching it with their 1.5lb tension spring is also recommended to firm things up a bit without strain. That’s the config I now have in all my JLF sticks (silent or not).

No I read it, I read your little post. My Comment stands.
Kowal oversize actuator are nylon, the resist breakage like ABS would but they can tear. They still can grind into dust.
Adding grease will only help for so much, instead of getting lose dust you get grease filled with dust and that grease starts to seize everything.

Delrin is known as a self lubricating plastic and is highly resistant to wear.

So, you read my “little” post? Am I still grinding or should I remove the gate?

Tip for beginners : do NOT grease the actuator and gate, it’s a joke. The lubricant can get in the switches, and if they happen to be uber expensive or rare models, if the switches are not sealed, they’ll just stop making contact. Glad to see others noticed it too.

Delrin is cool but doesn’t “last forever” . In fact virgin delrin and basic delrin copolymers wear a tad more than the nylon grades used in joysticks , in one word it’s worse than nylon in that aspect, as for sliding properties, they’re practically the same, unless expensive special grades are compared, which is not the case with joystick actuators.

Nylon deforms faster under load compared to delrin (delrin resists creep and has excellent dimensional stability plus high stiffness compared to vrigin basic polyamide grades) , there are other differences but they’re really not important concerning use for actuators. One detail though for DIYers: delrin/acetal is a dream to work with even for beginners, sands and turns cleanly, only it comes with a price. There are excellent nylon grades out there too, but truth be told, with most joystick brands, the grades used are often the cheapest possible.

You are wrong. Greasing the actuator and the gate will coagulate the dust particles so they don’t float to the far end of the interior of the micro-switch where the electric contact is made. Oil leaks, and is very mobile. Grease is very stagnant and very immobile. You need to use the same grease that the manufacturers use. Obviously greasing is a short term fix. We need good quality sealed micro-switches. You know, I never had this problem with the old happ arcade joysticks. They were more fluid and allot more durable.

Greasing the gate and actuator on a Japanese joystick is unnecessary and dumb. Sanwa Denshi doesn’t do it from the factory. Neither does Seimitsu. If you’re hard up for Happ, buy an IL stick.

Buy a brain. If a little grease can slow-down powder infiltration, unnecessary and dumb is your situation. I’m hard up for whatever works right.

I don’t have to buy a brain. I already have one appears to work better than yours. Here’s why:

The manufacturers (the actual designers and producers) of these products do not lubricate these parts. These products are used in high-stress environments–subject to prolonged impact and friction.

Sanwa and Seimitsu have been producing this shit for years. I’m sure if omitting lubrication from key high-friction points would incur early failure, they’d ensure customer satisfaction by lubricating all necessary points during manufacture.

That’s logic. It’s not rocket science.

They want to make more money from you. No rocket science involved.

No. They want ensured customer satisfaction, which in turn begets positive market reputation (and brand recognition).
Shit that breaks too soon doesn’t make money…it gives it away to competitors.

So I guess I won the joystick lotto 4 times. I’m talking about reality and why I created this thread. Shills are not required.

We’ll agree to disagree. Live in your ignorance.

In 5 years using day by day…never.

^ This, this 100%.

Just take care of your stuff and your arcade parts will last for some 20+ years.

I have quite a few sticks and some arcade machines, hosting weekly gatherings at my place for years and I’ve never had to ever replace a micro on a joystick, ever.

This guy probably plays with his feet or something and kicks the lever around lol.

Warned for being a douche.

Don’t act like an idiot when people are trying to give you sound advice.