Yeah, you could make the whole thing in the firmware of many boards.
I own a ps360+ fastest pcb for ps4 according to OP and a Hori VLX one of the slowest. I can still hit my 1 frame links with balrog in usf4 with both. I’m more bothered by having to reset every 8 mins. Don’t let a controller be an excuse. Thanks for the information though teyah.
Input lag will not affect combo timing. You can have 0f of lag or 20f of lag and you still input the combo the same way with the same timing. So combos are a bad example.
A better example (if you wanted to establish that it doesn’t matter) would be like “I can red parry Yun 1-2-3 on a setup with 0f lag, 1f lag, or 2f lag in 3s.” It’s a 3f window that requires you to rely on a visual cue for timing. I think red parry GJ is the easiest example to use, because it actually is a situation where input or visual delay will matter, and it’s easy to understand that if you move a 3f window by 1-3 frames, then you’re going to have a hard time adjusting on the fly.
That isn’t to say that you couldn’t adjust to input it earlier and still red parry consistently. It just means that if you’re used to arcade and suddenly switch to a laggy setup (which could be monitor, stick, whatever) and try to red parry with the timing you’re used to you’re likely going to miss it the majority of times.
I see your point, I don’t play 3s … (never liked the precision needed for parrying). For my use (USF4) it really does not matter to me… maybe for counter hit set up it would matter? not a tournament player
Yeah I only use 3s because it’s the only game I know well enough to use as an example. But I bet there’s probably examples in any game that are roughly equivalent.
I think if you’re used to one specific setup and you move to a laggier (or less laggy) setup, it can be difficult to adjust in those situations where the minor timing details are important. people always talk about “when I play on a laggy monitor I can’t do shit” but the opposite is also true - I know pretty good 3s players who can do everything on Fightcade but drop shit constantly when they play on arcade. It’s hard to adjust to less lag too!
That’s where I think it matters the most. I don’t think the argument should be “my stick was half a frame laggier so I lost.” If you’re used to a specific setup you can always adjust to some degree. It’s when the standard for a game (for example: arcade is the standard for 3s) is different from your own setup and you have to adjust each way that you’ll run into problems.
That’s all my opinion and is worded pretty broad of course. Just an example of where I think it could matter.
IMO input lag is a problem mainly because of the synchronism (keyword) between the player and the game, not muscle memory-related input like combos… Also for pure reactions, but a lot of the time input timing will be a reflection of the players’ subjective expectation of responsiveness. A change to what players are used to may throw them off without them even being aware of the situation.
Do you know if you’ll be getting your hands on one the second-generation TE2s to test?
Hey guys, I know this thread has been dead for a few months aside from the post earlier today, and I did search the thread but couldn’t find an exact confimation:
Is the “Hori Real Arcade Pro v4” the same stick as the Hayabusa? I can’t find a straight Real Arcade Pro v4 listed anywhere, they all have something at the end (Hayabusa, Kuro, V, etc)
Apologies if this has been cleared up already but obviously there’s a significant difference between this Real Arcade Pro v4 tested and, well, basically every other Hori stick.
And I know it was asked a while back, but has anyone done any tests on the Venom sticks? I’m looking for a PS4 stick and its basically a tossup between whatever the better performing Hori is, or a Venom and then modding it. Thanks!
“Stick” can refer both to the complete controller (ie. Hori Real Arcade Pro v4, Mad Catz TE2, Qanba Q4 etc.) or to the lever that’s used for directional inputs (ie. Hori Hayabusa, Sanwa JLF, Myoungshin Fanta etc.).
The Hayabusa is Hori’s new in-house lever that’s used in HRAPs from 4 onwards. Kuro is the brand Hori uses for their new in-house buttons (Sanwa made are usually called Sanwas or by product code like OBSF-30 etc.). Both HRAP 4 and HRAP V5 use Hayabusa levers and Kuro buttons. If you want a Hori product with Sanwa stick and buttons you want to buy one with a product name like “HORI Xbox 360 Real Arcade Pro VX SA KAI” or “HORI PlayStation 3 Real Arcade Pro. N3**-SA**” which denotes Sanwa parts.
Could you do a test with the PS3 -> PS4 Brook Converter?
Or just swap out the buttons and joystick with the parts you want. its a common practice in Tech Talk.
Sorry, I wasn’t that clear just then.
In the list of PS4 sticks (“stick” meaning, the complete entire product, not just the component with a balltop you move), in the B tier is “Hori Real Arcade Pro v4”.
In the F tier are several sticks which start with “Hori RAP4 […]”. RAP presumably meaning Real Arcade Pro. What I was asking is, what’s the difference between these 2 “products”?
Here on Amazon UK, there is a “Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai”, which is on Teyah’s table near the bottom:
And here is a separate product listed as “Real Arcade Pro V4 ‘Hayabusa’”:
What I was asking is, is the second of the two links above (Real Arcade Pro V4 ‘Hayabusa’) the same stick as the one in the B tier on Teyah’s list? Both sticks are called “Real Arcade Pro 4” but they must have different innards to have such different results.
Don’t care about names V V4 V5 Vlx Kai Silent…Hori with touchpad are slow than Hori without.(For now)
The Hori Real Arcade Pro v4 in your second link is indeed an entirely different model than the Hori Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai in your first link, the latter of which has a few variations that use the same PCB.
I wish this was more clear, but I’m using the official naming on my website.
Awesome, thanks for the confirmation.
Its not your fault, the whole naming scheme they use seems a bit arbitrary anyway. To me a HRAP was the same as any old HRAP, but I guess these kind of internal changes could be going on all the time and we’d be none the wiser if not for people like you testing this stuff! The Chronus Max numbers are especially damning, I heard people talking about them causing input lag but yikes.
Yeah it is a bit odd they’d continue to use that name, but Hori hasn’t been very creative with their names in the past either. 
Also, the results on my site are for the original Cronus. not the CronusMax (Plus) which has yet to be tested. I am actually working to get a CronusMax Plus and have that tested in the upcoming month.
Agreed, Hori’s naming scheme always been unimaginative and it only got more confusing as time went on.
If you can test the Brook ps3->ps4 converter also, it would be really helpful! I think they have about 12ms delay but I’m not sure
I think you find this interesting then
That test is a bit flawed (but it gives an indication). Better have Teyah test it.