I will ask again because I didn’t get a response the first time. What is the latency of official licensed gamepads for 360 and ps3 (that sony and microsoft produce)?
Nobody knows so why don’t you test them for us 
Because no one tested them.
Already answered the question about the PS3 Q4 a page or two back, please go back and reread.
Already answered the pads question as well. I can’t test those unless I can get my hands on a pad hacked stick, which I don’t have access to atm.
This test was really lacking in a lot of variables.
I couldn’t find a good video clip, that gif isn’t an accurate representation I know. It was just to help illustrate my point.
Is the Madcatz Fightstick Pro the latest release or the EVO 2012 model?
Don’t listen to dustloopers. They have brain damage, and are generally scrublords.
I have to specifically disagree with this. In a video source, maybe a 1 or 2 frame desynch isn’t that bad, but if you’re playing Stepmania on high judgement values, that same desynch is going to be immediately apparent. You might not be able to call out that it’s exactly 34ms off or whatever, but it’ll feel wrong.
im sad
Why? They could just software update it. You never know
To the OP:
It’s clear that you put some thought and quite a bit of effort into your testing and documentation. Thank you for contributing.
Regarding the methodology:
I’m not sure how you hooked things together, but it’s definitely possible for the electronic interaction to affect the perfomance of one stick, or the other. An extreme example is that you would get garbage if you naively wire together common high and common low system, but hooking togeter common ground systems can also also have more subtle effects.
It would be nice to see some PCB tested against itself as a reference.
There are ways to get frame timing info:
http://www.pedantic.org/~nate/HDR/misc/delay/righttest.html
It would be nice if you included some notion of a confidence interval for your measurements in the chart.
I don’t think the chart grades are likely to accurately reflect the relative performance of the stick in terms of player experience.
Regarding the discussion about noticing delays: In some contexts an extra frame of delay can be very noticable. Things that you don’t notice can hurt you.
Hi, according to that chart it looks like the sweet spot is the Qanba Q4RAF Black original
I’m about to get a new stick. How do you tell if the black Q4RAF Qanba is the same stick from this lag test?
Is this the original Black Qanaba sold by eightarc on the amazon page?
thanks in advance
That start button on the front panel is so ugly. The HRAP would be much more attractive if it had the start button up top, too.
Hi Rufus - thanks for the constructive post. It was really refreshing to read that after the direction the last couple of pages this thread has taken.
Regarding the methodology: I’m aware it’s not perfect - anything that requires several hundred trials to smooth out inconsistencies just won’t be as accurate as a method that provides one very precise measure with no external variables at all. But I am confident that the results under my method are accurate enough to serve the purposes of being comparable while being precise enough to be considered reliable numbers to one to five tenths of a millisecond. Yes this is just a ballpark estimate of variance, but from sifting through the raw data one can see that it’s probably a rather conservative one.
I have been planning to add a confidence interval into my results, it’s just a matter of finding the time to sit down and work through the math and run through the additional tests that may be needed. I think testing a PCB against itself would be ideal, I will definitely be looking at that when I have time.
This is the problem with this test. I’m all for it, knowledge is power, but It’s stuff like this that’s driving some of us up the wall. If we did the Pepsi challenge, and shoved a MCZ Pro guts into the Qanba, you’d never know the difference. There are still quality players using pad hacked PSX pads and converters. The difference is the player, not the equipment. STOP blaming the PCBs and learn how to play the game. Get a Qanba, spend more money for no benefit. Don’t blame the PCB when you still get stomped because you don’t fundamentally understand what @Moonchilde was saying about high level gaming being about knowing the likely maneuvers of your opponent and reacting based on potential outcome as opposed to some phantom single frame of animation that you are not seeing.
This topic is dangerous because web surfers see the chart and don’t know how to interpret the data. This is a topic best left to guys like @undamned, @Phreakazoid, @Toodles. @Gummo, etc.
I am not one of those four people you mentioned but that doesn’t make my testing any less credible. I think I’ve answered your other criticism before actually:
And er no, any player with their senses about them with a side by side setup should be able to notice the difference on PS3 between the MCZ Pro and the TE Kitty, PS360+ or original Q4RAF Black. If you can notice the difference between 0 and 2 in Network Simulation in USF4 training mode (which I hope you can!) you should be able to notice the difference at least some of the time.
I liked this thread a lot better when we were discussing the results and other more objective data, I apologize for going off on a tangent like this.
stop worrying about what other people are buying. it’s great that some of you think the difference doesn’t matter. we get it. even if you were right it would still have nothing to do with this thread.
the general reception this thread has received has been awful. someone tested something and did it in a reproducible way with a small margin of error. that should be the focus of the discussion. critique the testing methods, question the results, those are good responses.
those of you who think it doesn’t matter can continue playing on whatever setup you choose and it will not make one difference to you. those who think it does matter can pursue a lagless setup and they can be happy too. this sounds like a great solution to me, and no one has to justify their purchases or perceptions to anyone else. easy peasy.
Ha, I agree entirely. If you check out the pic of my VX-SA on my overview page, you’ll see that I’ve moved my Start button off to the side.
It’s not possible to tell just from the outside, you’d have to either know the date of manufacture (or how long it’s been sitting in stock) or be able to see the PCB to know for sure. Thanks to Komatik we do know that the new line of Q4RAF Blacks have changed to the newer, laggier PCB unfortunately.
If the PCB is two-tiered and looks like this then you’ve got the original fast PCB. If it looks like this (credit to Komatik) then it’s the slower one that’s used in the modern line of Qanbas.
Remember when everyone sold their PS3s because SF4 lagged an entire frame more than 360? Remember the protests at Evo about running on PS3? Nobody does because it never happened; people realized it isn’t the biggest deal in the world even if it’s not ideal.
I think we should worry less about the unwashed plebeian throngs accidentally learning something or making a decision on their own. This is an opportunity to make things better and educate the curious.