Matsushita (松下製) brand, AM59074N for LS-32-01 (5-pin pcb type), AM51662C5N for LS-32 (loose switches), practically the same. (and for reference, LS-40 uses the same ones)
I believe most recent HORI “Fighting Sticks” use this as well, if anything, they are very similar, same Brand, just without the long metal levers.
why do these particular Microswitches deactivate quicker than switches that only have a bare plunger actuator?
I’m using an old school European suzo so I’m thinking about doing 2 things. I’ll try these Matsushita brands and i’ll use the switches from a Sanwa button on my stick (unlike japanese sticks the panels on Suzo sticks are plastic so i can screw the buttons in place considering they’re smaller than levers (i’ll use your terminology). I know its odd but I’m curious to know how the sanwa buttons work in sticks. If you guys are interested to know the results I can keep you updated.
Wow, you have a Suzo (500?) , jealous, you should check out monouchi’s suzo mod then , or was it emphatic? eitherway, it’s on his youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmm1uZ2Ofv8 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wFh7w6BdgA
i know emphatic posts here, would be cool to know what switches he used.
I wouldn’t say that perse, on what lever/joystick you use it on plays a big part.
but here’s the data on those switches. if they help. i did not measure these, these are from catalogs.
Matsushita 松下製 AM59074N (used in seimitsu ls-32)
動作に必要な力（Operating Force）最大1.18N
もどりの力 （Release Force）最小 Minimum 0.2N
動作までの動き（PreTravel）最大 Maximum 3.2mm
動作後の動き（OverTravel）最小 Minimum 1.4mm
応差の動き（MovementDifferential）最大 Minimum 1.0mm
動作位置（OperatingPosition） 15.3±1.0mm
and comparison
OMRON オムロン製 V-01-3D5-A (Used in Sanwa JLF)
動作に必要な力（OF） 1.96N
もどりの力 （RF） 0.49N
動作までの動き（PT）1.2mm
動作後の動き（OT）1.0mm
応差の動き（MD） 0.4mm
動作位置（OP）14.7±0.4mm
fast switch:
omron dv3
cherry KWJ
I like also Saia X3 series
all other is much slower…
all my stickie have changed swich (omron or KWJ)
I do not use other - exception Seimitsu (matsushita switches) not the best but alll is fine
on this video speed come from short trow not from switch
magnetic joystick (and t-stick) is much faster than STC 500 but have odd dynamic
I prefers Suzo
delete
I have no idea what those are or what they do. please elaborate…
…
What you’re saying makes no sense. No snap action switch will activate when fully pressed in, you’d totally ruin the feel of the stick that way and it would have huge throw. The snapping to the top means the switch is closed, means it isn’t activated. You eliminate that and you fuck the switch up, the plate (NC terminal) needs to be there so that the spring doesn’t over extend and lose tension and then fall apart.
If it’s the sound you don’t like, then you need to look into reed switches.
Otherwise, you won’t find what you’re looking for, since it doesn’t exist. The switch types are called “Basic Snap Action” switches. If you don’t like the snap, then you need either optical like Toodles’ Spark, a set of reed switches like the D2RV that you can buy from Paradise Arcade, or you need analog which means getting a Seimitsu LS-64.
for one my stick has the smallest throw of any arcade stick. You probably dont know a lot about Suzo’s.
I dont recall saying I had an issue with sound. I either need a micro switch that only activates when the plunger is fully pressed down or I want to be able to control the cross point contact without the snap actionl. I’ll get the result I want either way.
I wasn’t talking about the throw of the Suzo stick. I’m talking about the amount of travel beyond the point of activation in the switch, when you press down the plunger. Most people here understand it as throw. You will not find a micro without it. It would help if you told us WHY you want a micro that only activates when the plunger is pressed all the way down.
I really think you’re just trolling us now. You keep going off on completely different subjects for some reason and going off topic mid posts about stuff.
You want a switch that’s fast? Nope, now you want a switch with no throw.
You want a switch with no throw? Nope, now you want one that doesn’t snap.
You want a switch that doesn’t snap? Nope, I have no idea what you want, because a basic snap action switch is a switch that functions off snap action… However, I did tell you to get a reed switch because the D2RV does not snap.
Man, I’ve lost track. I don’t know what you want anymore. We’ve all given you alternatives to just about everything you’ve sought here and you just keep changing it or wanting something that doesn’t exist.
Good luck.
So if I’m understanding you right, you want a switch that only activates when the plunger is flush (or near flush) with the body?
AFAIK no switches have this behavior for various reasons. HOWEVER, you can replicate it by simply filing down the actuator to your desired height. Most if not all switches use plastic here, so a file or dremel will do wonders.
you dont need snap action switch, only toogle switch
hyhy
find switch cherry D42 (also 41/43) - they increase the resistance after engagement it works like a mini hamper Ultimarc sell this switch with iL buttons, white case+blue plunger
or try magnetic joystick this stick have strange dynamic similar how on toogle switch but shaft quickly returns to the center this stick have very short throw shorter than STC500
personaly I use modded SUZO STC and Inductive soft spring+hard switch
Recieving in spring
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/images/seimitsu-LS32RecSpring.jpg
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/images/seimitsu-LS32Spring.jpg
and spring from LS32 fit to suzo
and omron D3V switch
I tried that a few months ago, it didnt quite have the feel i was looking for. just realised its not the activation point thats the concern, its the “snap action” that occurs when the crosspoint hits the bottom terminal, then snaps back to the top, if that makes sense. I’d prefer a smoother movement over the “snap”.
I’ve heard a few complaints about the Mag stick. I have the D42’s, theses are and Omron switches are my favourite right now, eventhough they’re not quite the feel I’m lookng for.
The throw on the switch makes very little difference, as Kowal said, its the throw on the joystick that effects the speed of the stick.
I’ve tried to do a little research on reed switches, cant find that much about them. If they dont snap then its most likely what I’m looking for… so the crosspoint doesn’t snap at all?
My bad, I keep changing it because I want you guys to understand, and I dont really know the microswitch terminology you guys use, its totally different in Europe.
The changes in my initial post will be the last.
If you’re looking for sharp electrical contact instead of an activating switch, you could make a conductive contact around the stick armature, and put conductive contacts around the direction active areas. I disclaim that this suggestion is exactly as retarded as it sounds.
The red areas are where you would arrange for conductivity. What you don’t want is a switch, you want an instant connection. This is going to have a ton of screwy negatives.
First: You’re going to have to have enough mechanical knowledge to space the contacts out so they reach the stick evenly, and you don’t adjust the ‘throw’ of the stick.
Second: The contacts are going to wear quickly, and will have to be a strong enough material to withstand that abuse while still giving good electrical contact.
Third - you will have no range of activation. You say you want this, but this means you will either be riding the gate or the contacts for any action. That’s a lot of unnecessary force.
[quote=“Sexperienced, post:35, topic:162137”]
Yeah, I know the throw on the stick makes very little difference, which was what I was pointing out a while ago. I’ve also done stick throw mods, so I know a good bit about throw.
As I pointed out earlier, the switch you want is a reed switch, the Omron D2RV (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en/microswitches/778-omron-drrvg-reed-microswitch-0855742007783.html) It operates smoothly with no tactile snap, so you can’t tell when it’s activated or not. I personally don’t like them because I like the audible click of the snap, but this is the switch you’re looking for. Because they’re reed switches, they’re expensive. LOL, I wrote this like 2 posts ago.
Leaf switches are another option: http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=365
Leafs are very cheap, easy to adjust and basically indestructible, but they’ll require some level of regular adjustment to stay where you want them.
I am like 90% sure that you are both talking about the same thing. But they’re both right, that’s probably what you are looking for.
Not quite. Reed switches are really complex beasts designed to be used in flammable environments where you can’t afford to have contacts sparking. For a technical overview, see http://www.erittenhouse.org/artitcles/micro-and-reed-switches/
Leaf switches are literally two metal blades with contacts on the end. When force is applied to either end of the switch the contacts touch. They are cheap and simple so they saw a lot of use in older arcade applications, particularly pinball machines (Older EM games may have several hundred of them).
The main difference in the context of this discussion is that you can find reed switches in the “standard” casing size you normally get microswitches in. Leafs are (as far as I know) not produced in this form factor, as the snap actuation is almost always desirable in switch applications for numerous reasons.