GooGone works wonders. You didn’t leave it on for long enough. I’ve removed that gunk on five or six HRAPs and TEs, comes off incredibly clean. You just need to let it sit for a while.
does anyone know if I can mode this with some sanwa buttons and a stick?
I’ll hose this thing down and give it another shot then, thanks.
Did you read the first post?
sorry i didn’t saw the hori/jlf link, I only saw the seimitsu one I was in a hurry when I found this but thanks for pointing it out
Hello, my name is Paul I’m a Brazilian guy. I have a control that, can you help me, I am newbie. I wanted to change only by the joystick (LS-33 stick (LS-55) spring, Sanwa bat top). Like you did
To do this, I need to cut the PCB as well?
If you can help me, thank you very much!
Sorry for my English.
Olá amigo brazuca, o LS-33 ñ traz pcb, a ñ ser q coloques uma pcb de LS-55 ou LS-56, ou seja o LS-33 ñ tem um ground comum, só tens que fazer uma daisy chain(pesquisa ai o que é) e ligar a todos os microswitchs, é o mesmo procedimento q se faz nos botões, cravas dois fios num terminal e assim por diante, alguma duvida add me como amigo q te explico melhor.
Edit: penso q nem tens q fazer a daisy chain já q o stick stock da hori tbm ñ tem common ground, se assim for só tens q ligar tal como estava, ground no ground e sinal no sinal, é simples.
SRKers sorry for saves in Portuguese but it’s easier for me to explain:china:
So is Brazilian Portugese and Portugues Portugues like American English and English English? Do they sound funny to you?
Yes, but my wife is Brazilian so I got used to brasilian portuguese.
Thanks. I want to insert a joystick in WFS3 … My preference is the easiest. LS33? Or JLF? Which is easier?
I’ll add, but can not send direct messages due to my level in the forum, I’ll post my email pfinardi@gmail.com
Thank you and your Portuguese is great!
Am I wrong or did someone mention in one of the previous posts that the stick part of the pcb isn`t common gorund ?
I just connected the jlf cable with the original plug of the stock microswitches and it seems to work. At least in the windows calibration tool, couldn`t test it in games yet.
Did I just get it wrong or will I run into problems ?
Everything looked common ground to me last time I checked (360 version).
A Hori rarity!
PS3 or 360?
PS3 or 360?
Both are common ground. The entire PCB. If you need to check, follow how many wires come off the main PCB to the button daughterboard. because it certainly isn’t 20.
^ I think that some people are easily confused by the joystick wiring because Hori refuse to daisy chain the GND points, so creating 8 different wires when in reality only 5 are needed.
Every time someone unnecessarily mutilates their JLF pcb, an angel dies.
Thanks all, because I really do not want to mod the jlf which costed 20? vs the Tekken Stick which was a 15 ? ebay auction :).
Btw I got the PS3 version.
Time for some serious dremel buisness I think.
To install only the LS-33 stick, how many GND points I need create?
Tks!
If you aren’t putting a PCB ripped from a LS-56-01 or LS-55-01 onto your LS-33, then you have two options:
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Daisy chain the GND points on the microswitches to each other then link this to the motherboard. Wire up the signal lines as normal. This will leave you with one joystick GND wire connected to the board and 4 signal wires.
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Wire it up exactly like Hori have done, so each microswitch will have a GND and Signal line attached which is then connected to the motherboard, so 8 GND wires in total. Doing it this way you can re-use all the original Hori wires.
If you’re using a LS-33 with a PCB attached, then use a 5pin joystick loom (recommended) to connect to the motherboard, or solder to the joystick PCB pins directly.
You need to run that ground to all of the microswitches (the LS-33 does not come out to a 5 pin harness, but nothing is stopping you from daisy chaining the ground to all four switches).
On that note, how much of a bitch is it to throw an LS-33 or LS-56 into the T6 stick? I’ve seen a 33 installed, but I don’t recall seeing any in depth steps.
My Xbox360 Tekken stick has a LS-56 in it (see earlier picks). You need to cut off the stock screw mounting holes and drill new ones. You will notice that I have screws on the outside of the case. The joystick is mounted directly to the case without a standard mounting bracket. It is perfectly stable and the screws provide absolutely no interference when using the stick.
They real bitch is the stick shaft length. Even after sanding down the bottom of the shaft to the point where I could barely grip the bottom with grip pliers and sanding the bottom of the case itself, the case will not close.
You have two options. The first is to place some tabs between the case screw holes to extend the height of the case. The option I choose if the use a battop on the LS-56. The battop on the LS-56 with the shaft on will suck the shaft up by pushing the bearing when you screw it in. This will bring the stick shaft up enough to fully clear the bottom of the sanded case.