Hi I`ve Got the HRAP and I have some questions
:
1-I want to change the restirct plate from square shaped to octagonal shape what do I need t buy and what is the best stick and parts for this.
2- I would Like to change the buttons, what is the best buttons out there and can I change the buttons places to make it Like HRAP2+ can I change the Button frame color+ Can I change the turbo panel color.
3- Is there any way to change the faceplate?
4- I know that you would say: F*** YOU why don`t you get a new stick
Possibly if you bought two sets of buttons in different colors and combine the parts but that hardly seems worth the money. Some Seimitsu buttons can be bought pre-fitted with a black bezel though.
I suppose you can disassemble the turbo panel and repaint them.
Not without swapping faceplates with a HRAP2 (or Japanese Tekken 5 stick) or building a new faceplate from scratch.
Indeed, if you wanted it to be more like a HRAP2 why didn’t you buy one of those instead? :rolleyes:
Quote:
Originally Posted by GottMitUns
I know that you would say: F*** YOU why don`t you get a new stick
Indeed, if you wanted it to be more like a HRAP2 why didn’t you buy one of those instead?
Lol, Mayhem ya know the HRAP2 is 149$ and the HRAP is 79$ and I`m Really thankfull
Those indicate the available colors for each type of button. You can see which colors the codes correspond to here.
Those are for customers placing orders through Sanwa’s website I believe, they only ship to Japan though so you likely can’t order directly from them. Your best bet is to either order from Himura or contact TheRealNeoGeo on this forum, the latter can get you anything from Sanwa or Seimitsu shipped directly from Japan.
The difference lies in how you mount them in the panel, GX is snap-in type (has “wings” on the sides to keep the button in place) while GXN is screw-in type (fastened with a nut). The same goes for Sanwa’s OBSF (snap-in) versus OBSN (screw-in) by the way. GXN is also available with a clear plunger. Either will work fine for you, snap-ins are generally a bit cheaper. I used regular Sanwa OBSN-30 for my own HRAPs.
I haven’t tried many models, so far I personally prefer the Sanwa JLF (which comes standard in the HRAP) though with an octagonal restrictor (which it seems you already planned to switch in). The Seimitsu LS-32-01 is another good choice if you want a smaller deadzone, lesser throw and stiffer spring but there’s no octagonal restrictor available for it. Unless you’re somehow unhappy with the JLF I’d say keep playing!
To remove the balltop you’ll have to open the stick and keep the shaft from rotating with a flathead screwdriver. Another forum member already made a dead-simple guide which covers everything you’re looking to do to your HRAP, so take a look at it.
The ball you currently have is a regular 35 mm, so I guess that’s what you want if you’re happy with the size. Seimitsu has some snazzy translucent balltops if you haven’t seen them. Also, Sanwa has compatible bat-tops if those are more your thing.
Any regular 24 mm button from Sanwa (OBSF/OBSN-24) or Seimitsu (PS-14-D/DN) will fit fine, just be sure to pick one from the same manufacturer as your 30 mm buttons of choice if you want perfect color matching.
you can change the color of ANYTHING with paint, GottMitUns. works very well with button frames, because no one will ever notice a bad button frame paint job.
The author of the site shows two different methods for modding the buttons on the Japanese T5 stick; one is to simply change the switches on the buttons from the Hori ones to the Sanwa ones while the other is a bit more traditional, changing the acutal buttons out.
i’ve tried changing switches before.
i did it with the buttons of the T4 stick and the HFS2, but both sucked. they felt rather flimsy and fake. besides, if you had Sanwa switches, you’d probably have the buttons too.
So I am in Taiwan now, looking for a stick. I am trying to decide.
What is the major differences between the HRAP and the HRAP 2?
Also, is there any real difference between the HRAP and the SC3 Edition HRAP other than the differences listed (button layout, and soldered buttons)? How does having the buttons soldered into the PCB make a difference? (sorry I am very new to this, I don’t even know what a PCB is)
Ultimately, in opinion, between the HRAP 1 and the SC3 Edition HRAP, which should i buy?
Basically, when the buttons are soldered onto the PCB, you would have to desolder them to replace them and then resolder the new buttons back onto the PCB using a soldering iron or whatever you like.
With the buttons being connected via quickdisconnects, this allows you to easily and quickly remove the buttons and replace them anytime.
HRAP1, because of the button layout and the buttons aren’t soldered onto the PCB. BUT since you don’t know that much and really can’t tell the difference nor would care to tell the difference, just get either.
i just wanted to know if there was any difference between them that wasn’t necessarily listed, because the price difference between an HRAP 2 and an HRAP 1 is nearly double and it just seems like the button layout is differenct.
Special Addition HRAP has a sanwa stick and sanwa buttons and its $115, which is much more pricier than the HRAP. Is $35 more worth it for just the sanwa buttons and button scheme?
How does sanwa, seimitsu, and hori parts compare to each other?
This question seems to get asked a lot, and it never really gets answered:
Where do you buy a wind spirit psx to pc usb converter?
The price is actually the same, what causes the difference is that the HRAP2 is only available from Hori’s Japanese online store. Any retailer who wishes to stock it must therefore order it like a regular consumer instead of at bulk pricing which naturally makes it darn expensive at the time they sell it to you.
If you can find a HRAP SA at that price then I’d say it is definitely worth the difference. Considering those are RG buttons you probably couldn’t do such a mod cheaper yourself.
As to be expected Hori are the worst, they’re simply not designed to survive the amount of punishment any premium arcade part can without affecting performance. The general opinion seems to be Sanwa makes better buttons than Seimitsu, but when it comes to stick it is all about your personal preference.
That actually clear things up a lot, I was asking about other differences other than the ones listed in the first post cuz of the price differences I found. The listed differences just didn’t seem to justify for the price, and I actually don’t know if paying the difference would be more expensive than trying to mod it myself.
And I guess the wind spirit converter is still very much unknown.
What type of quick disconnect terminals would be used for the microswitches on a typical Sanwa button?
I’m currently looking at http://www.happcontrols.com/electrical_supplies/43053900.htm from Happs and I’m not sure which one would work, or if any would work at all, so if someone can direct me to which quick disconnects to get or where to get em, that will help a lot. Thanks.
I dunno if this has been mentioned yet bout putting a sanwa into the US tekken 5 stick. I really got the idea from Arm on himarus site. Its for putting the JLF-TP-8Y into it. On the guide it says to grind down a part of the base and then cut the screws. I believe this was spiifyshoes method.
The way I did mine was I cut holes into the clear gate. I drilled the holes where the little pin that sticks into the micro switch. I guess its like a guide so everything stays in place. And there is a small indent there already so you cant go wrong. I used a dremel cutter 1/8" for the hole. Once cut the stock screws fit perfect. I dunno if this way will affect performance, I have yet to test my stick out as Im still modding it.