buffi
I think it weighs over 2.7Kg.
Here’s a question I’d like to see answered:
What is the size of the screw bits used to hold in the top panel of an HRAP in MM? I tried a 4.5 MM bit screwdriver but it was too small. I’d try different ones, but I don’t want to drag my HRAP all the way to the tool store just to find out something this small.
Thanks!
Does anyoen know what the Sega Virtua Stick for the PS2 use? Supposedly it uses all the stuff from the Sega Arcade Cabinets.
http://www.lik-sang.com/image.php?category=22&products_id=6508&img=ps2-virtua-stick
Well the SC3 stick see a stateside release like the SC2 stick did?
How easy is it to replace the buttons in the hrap2 with sanwa ones? I’ve never done any modification before and don’t really have a clue what to buy or what to do.
Hey. Thanks for putting up all of this great info on hori real arcade sticks, but I was wondering if I could get help with this hori Soul Caliber II stick:
http://www.play-asia.com/paOS-13-71-m-77-8-15-hori%2Bsoul-70-26m-43-3.html
I’m pretty sure it is has stock hori sticks and buttons, but I was wondering if I could or should mod this or just stick with it/ buy another stick.
The size is 7MM, so a 7MM nut screwdriver will get the HRAP’s top panel screws out. This is a much better alternative than pliers, since the space inside the HRAP to unscrew these screws is so narrow. Might be worth adding this to the first post, it really makes opening the HRAP easier and MUCH faster.
www.japanvideogames.com has the original HRAP and the CFJ HRAP in stock. HRAP for 119 and the HRAP CFJ for 109, just got my HRAP in the mail today, should be getting the CFJ one early next week.
Edit: The CFJ stick is out of stock, my bad.
This is my first post in the SRK forums so greetings to everyone!
Let me start by saying I don’t know much about sticks, and what I do know I learned in the last couple of weeks. The only stick I have is some obscure model by Agetec/Ascii for the PS1 (which is OK, by my standards).
Here’s what I’d like to know: is the 2nd version HRAP significantly better than the 1st version?
The only differences I could find (based on the 1st post) are:
- The mirror top on v1 (which I guess I can live with. I don’t wear rings that might scratch it and I’m usually a careful owner).
- The button layout (I think I can get used to either layout. The more curved layout of the v1 seems more ‘natural’, but I can’t speak from experience).
- The button placement (The placement used on the v1 strikes me as more intuitive, with the L1/L2 and R1/R2 buttons to the sides of the four main buttons. On the v2 they chose to place L1/L2/R1/R2 to the right of the four main buttons, plus the ‘R’ buttons are placed left of the ‘L’ buttons, which I just think is odd).
What do you guys think of this?
I bought the Game-Elements by Gemini Universal Controller Adapter, packaging said it “works with steering wheels and joysticks” and cheap enough to not worry about monetary loss. Can’t really test it on the GameCube since I have no games suitable for arcade sticks, but during a brief Dead Or Alive 3 session on the Xbox I didn’t notice any lag whatsoever when used with my (still unmodded, Sanwa buttons should arrive next week) HRAP1. If you’re planning on buying though you should probably make sure you get the same adapter I did in red packaging, there is an identical adapter sold (often slightly cheaper) in orange packaging which I’m guessing is an earlier model as it doesn’t bear the text proclaiming joystick compatibility.
Do the HRAPs come with octogonal restrictor plates on the joysticks? I’ve been told this is vital, but I don’t have much experience with Japanese sticks. I’m thinking about getting a HRAP 2 and putting sanwa buttons in it. Would I also need to put an octogonal restrictor plate on the joystick? Anyone have any thoughts on this matter?
What are the benefits of an octogonal gate vs. a square gate? Should I start a thread?
Nah. The topic’s been discussed numerous times before. If you do a search you’ll probally come up with something.
I can’t speak from personal experience about the octagonal, but looking at the gates, it seems like if you move the stick in 360 degree motions you’ll find that using the square gate feels, well…like a square. You know exactly when you hit the diagonals, so you’ll be less likely to miss a 623 motion.
An octagonal gate on the other hand is ‘smoother’ at doing the 360 motions. You won’t feel the diagonals as easily, but alot of people say an octagonal gate helps with their halfcircle and 360 executions.
Given, it’s definately not impossible to do 360 motions on a square gate and DP’s on a octagonal gate, but the differences are there. Since purchasing an additional octagonal gate is pretty inexpensive ($5usd from himuragames.com), imo you’d be best off getting both the HRAP2 you want that comes with a square gate stock and an additional octagonal gate from whereever you’re getting your buttons from, so you’ll be able to try them both out for yourself.
I prefer square gates
Yeah, I don’t mind either or. I like how with the square gate you feel something solid when you hit the diagonals. Helps you to figure out where the diagonals are better.
Interesting… I’ve never heard arguments FOR square gates before. I’m new to the whole jap-stick thing though.
I am also helpless without square.
I def. need the four corners and the shorter ways.
Octagonal is quite handy if 360/720 motions are your thing.
Lik-Sang has restocked the original Hori Real Arcade Pro.
I just ordered mine. You may grab the rest 
Quick questions: Is Sanwa JLF different to a normal Sanwa sticks? Also whats Sanwa Flash?
Atb_555
The Sanwa JLF is standard today when used in cabs and sticks (HRAP).
Flash1-joysticks is an optical-joystick and is not for sale anymore.
I’ve searched just about everywhere trying to find a Wind Spirit PSX to USB adapter and can’t find one.Where did you guys find yours?