Tested my new hrap3 w/ my G5 powermac (Leopard) works perfect.
Here are the specs it shows in the system profiler:
REAL ARCADE PRO.3:
Version: 1.00
Bus Power (mA): 500
Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec
Manufacturer: HORI CO.,LTD.
Hey does the HRAP 3 play ps2 fighters 100%? (when played on a ps3 of course) I gave a quick scan through this thread and didnt find the answer. I read something about it needing a firmware update for the ps2 games to play right?
Since it’s intended for ps3, it should work as well as any ps3 controller (I would think).
Edit: After searching a bit it seems that backwards compatibility does require a firmware update, shows what I know.
well thanks for the confirmation, all this controller nonsense is confusing.
Do the Sanwa JLF-TP-8T and JLF-TP-8YT fit in the HRAP3?
From what i can see (with my newbie knowledge of stick modding) they r similar to the LS32’s so they wont fit in the hrap3. I just need a confirmation with that.
HRAP3’s already come with Sanwa JLFs stock, so yes, they fit.
Im also wondering about on the stock Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK that comes with the HRAP3.
Im thinking of puttiing in white sanwa buttons and a white jlf stick.
Im wondering if the ball of the stock Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK can be changed to white one or do i have to buy a whole new stick with a white ball?
If that sentence made any sense to u.
^
Yeah, you just put a flathead screwdriver into the slot at the bottom of the stick, unscrew the ball top, and screw the new one back on. You also will want snap in Sanwa buttons as screwins will not fit.
You don’t need to buy a new stick. Lizardlick has the ball tops for sale, once you get one just do as Evilsamurai instructed and you’re good to go.
Ive tried screws in and they worked fine on the Hrap3. I have red OBSN30s in there but realized i want new buttons to make it look better. :lovin: Thanks for all the help peeps. saved me 30 dollars right there.
okay this is probably a stupid question but just wanna make sure
for any horis with buttons soldered onto pcb, can you just replace just the pcb(keeping the buttons), or do you have to replace the buttons as well
^ ^ ^
Noooo problem, dude! I asked a billion stupid questions when I started learning. People are super-nice here. (I’m still learning too so I still ask a lot of stupid questions.) 
You don’t need to replace the buttons. They’re just a plastic bezel and plunger, with a spring, and a switch that closes the circuit when the button is depressed.
I don’t remember if the Hori buttons have terminals to accept .110 female quick disconnects. If they do, just make sure you get all the solder off of them and the disconnects should slip on just fine.
If they don’t, you’ll need to solder new wires onto the buttons. Those wires can go directly to the new PCB, but better yet they can be very short and end with .110 male quick disconnects that plug into female ones attached to more wire soldered onto the new PCB.
Unless you’re working with a tight budget though, I’d recommend swapping out the buttons for Sanwa ones while you’re at it. You’ll thank yourself!
The OP is getting to be pretty out-of-date. I PM’ed Superking a cheat sheet of sorts with all the new info worth changing/adding so he can update it without having to research himsef, but I think he’s MIA for now.
Thanks
Yeah, im working with a tight budget, thinking bout just getting a wii hori(lol they’re about $40 last time i checked a gamestop), then swap the pcb of that with a ps1 pad
my current stix is crap gotta get a new one
Updated the first post finally. lol
In the last note for original HRAP2, it doesn’t specify which type of screw-in (Sanwa/Seimitsu) won’t fit in. I think it’s pretty much confirmed you can’t use Sanwa, but I’m not sure about Seimitsu. Can anyone confirm?
^ The screw-ins for Seimitsu work and the Sanwa ones work as well it’s just that one of the screw-ins won’t be on tight.
Here’s the Seimitsu for a T5 mod. The spacing for the buttons is the same as a RAP2
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g42/V4MPIRO/S5030366.jpg
Here’s the same stick with Sanwa screw-ins see the last one isn’t on as tight. This is the exact reason as to why I personally use snap-ins.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g42/V4MPIRO/Picture039.jpg
On a side note the Seimitsu screw-in nut is interchangeable with the Sanwa button. What I’m doing with my friend’s mod is I’m using screw-ins for the first and last two buttons, and the middles buttons snap-ins. The only reason is he bought screw-ins and I had an extra two snap-ins. I want to see if there would be a huge differance between the two, but I don’t think there will because it’s the same microswitch.
Yeah, Don’t even try with sanwas screw ins.
^ Damn bro I forgot to foot note you in… I don’t wanna get credit for your work sorry lol.
no big deal, is all about to help each others.
I opened up Latif’s Arcana Heart stick (his balltop was unscrewed somehow and he couldn’t get it back on from the outside) and it certainly doesn’t look like anything is on quick disconnects to me. I’m no expert but it looked like the buttons were just sitting on (and soldered to?) the PCB. No camera or I would have taken pics for someone to analyze.