What type of restrictor plates do third strike machines have?
Typically US cabs have Happ competitions/supers/ultimates/p360s, whereas Japanese candy cabs would have either Sanwa JLFs or Seimitsu LS-32s. So it depends on what you’ve used at the arcade really. To further elaborate on JPN sticks, they use square restrictor plates just like your HRAP, infact the HRAP uses the aformenetioned Sanwa JLF. If you’ve played on US-style cabinets which have Happ parts, these sticks don’t have square restrictor plates.
Is it easy/posable to change my HARP1’s restrictor plate?
Yes, you can also get different restrictor plates at http://akiharabashop.com , if you can’t get used to the square plate, you can go for an octagonal plate or a rounded plate.
(just to ease my mind) What type of plates did the old SFII machine?
snap ins tend to jiggle a little kinda like the original horis those are snap. where as screw ins stay in place and never move. so to answer your questions they both are great and you shouldn’t have prob either way. If you get RG’s you might want to get screw in but any other buttons snaps would be just fine.
got some new stuff from akihabara shop. (since my stick kept going to the left) so i got a new pcb board. and i went a little crazy and got new buttons and stuff. anyway. got the pcb board hooked up and its STILL messed up. it still goes to the left.
i have a HRAP. not a special. just the green one. i think it might have to do with where its hooked up. but everthing is sodered into place still. i have no idea whats wrong and i dont know what to do and im pissed.
check the PCB on the stick itself. there is probably something grounded there.
everyone else:
a friend brought over a HRAP1 from Akihabara, and it was totally weird.
it did NOT have a mirror finish. the art was kind of like the HRAP SA or HRAP2, with the engraving. the stick WAS a JLF-SK, and the buttons were QD’d Horis. there was some kind of plastic layer over the art which would come off easy as hell.
also, i could not access the buttons just by opening the bottom plate. i had to open the bottom, THEN remove the top plate.
i’m just wondering: WTF is it? it’s definitely not a HRAP 2, because it just says HRAP on there. basically it’s just a HRAP with a non-mirror top. weird.
I’ve got a question,
I’ve just bought a HARP1 (ver 2.0 I think, it doesn’t have a mirror plate or those easy snap offs for the buttons)
my problem is that just five minutes of trying it out, the button for triangle already started to get wonky! If I press it continously, sometimes the button would get stuck mid-way, and it’s really noticable if I press the button continuously that it wouldn’t register becuase the button is stuck sometimes…all the other buttons are fine tho. So I emailed lik-sang, the place I bought it from, but they havn’t replied yet. To my stupiditiy I used WD-40 on the button and of course that didn’t work but screwed up the plastic wraping on the plate. So I thought of opening it up and maybe switch the buttons around and ultimatly switch to the sanwa buttons that I’ve read some people have done, but I’ve found that those connections don’t come off! It’s not some easy detatchable connection like the FAQ or that Japanese site was saying…then again the stick is probably different cuz it doesn’t have those plastic coverings on the connection…
So the worse case scenario for me is if they don’t let me return it (then again it’s quite a hassle to return such a big thing…I better not have to pay that shipping again if they let me) then I would have to switch the buttons, but I have no idea how, and I think I really should stop poking around inside the stick until I learn more about it first…so any help or thoughts is appericated
If your HRAP does indeed have the quick disconnects (which it should), the easiest way to remove them imo is to use a smallish flathead screwdriver to pop them off. Just wedge the driver inbetween where the top of the QD touches the plastic of the button and twist to shift the QD off abit, then it should be easy to pull it off using your hand. Hope that makes sense for you
I have the v2 of the HRAP1 (non-mirror finish) and am having a hell of a time opening it up. After unscrewing the bottom, there’re some nuts and bolts down very deep that I cannot access with my socket wrench (not enough length down there to fit the wrench - these vertical plastic bars are in the way). I’d imagine an adjustable mechanical wrench would do the trick but am not sure. Any tips on how to open this thing?
Also, if I just want to unscrew the balltop (without opening), how would I go about that? I’ve heard that just trying to unscrew it from the top works but I’m not able to make any progress with that either, ball just doesn’t want to move ‘upwards’. =\
I have a question for anyone that has cut out the base of plastic “compartment” (the thing that blocks you from getting into the inside of the case after you’ve taken off the base plate) in the HRAP.
I’ve been wanting to experiment between the different gates I have for the stick but a major deterant is that I need to go about unscrewing the top plate every single time I want to do that. I know a solution is just to cut out that sheet of plastic blocking the way, but in doing so does it make the stick much noisier than normal? Is it even noisy enough to make it a factor? I mean like, Hori must have sealed off the insides like that for some reason right ?_?
I suppose even if it does get too loud I could just install a pad of sound deadening to the bottom plate, but I just wanted an opinion of someone else that’s already done this
Okay… I managed to get the stick open and replaced the balltop via unscrewing the bottom of the stick. But, I’m having major trouble removing the “quick” disconnects from the buttons. From what I’ve heard, the QDs on the ver.2 of the HRAP1 are not your standard QDs… does anyone have any advice here?
Other posts I have read have said to use a flathead screwdriver (I don’t have a true ‘flathead screwdriver’ but instead use my socket wrench + attachment) to pry off the QDs within the place between the metal and plastic. This is pretty frustrating, as I’ve tried prying all over the place with random tools and nothing is giving, short of me breaking/snapping the metal off the QDs. Or is this the way it works now? (I really don’t think it is, but… you never know eh)
Edit: Okay, I realize what must be done here: jiggling of the QDs up and off the ‘plugs’ of the original buttons. I don’t know if they’re glued on or what… but wiggling the QDs left/right does absolutely nothing. I even shoved a safety pin in between the two circlular tubes to create some leverage - still nothing. I guess pliers might work as a last resort, but that’s using a bit too much force, maybe. (I’d also need to go out and buy some). Any advice would be great…
I wouldnt use pliers as you’re in danger of clamping the QDs down even tighter, unless you can carefully make contact with the edges of the QD, instead of the two faces. Do you have something else like a razor blade to pop it off in the same fashion as a flathead? Hell, even a knife might suffice
Just to be clear… the area where the flathead would go, is in between the two circular tubes on one side of a QD, correct? I’ve tried both here, as well as underneath the QD, and no amount of force has budged the QDs beyond a very short point.
So it is as I was first doing it… but it seems that I wasn’t using enough force, or twisting hard enough maybe to pop it off. I was able to jam my knife under there, so I’ll try that when I get up tomorrow - too tired now though. Thanks again for the help.
