Kind of a cop out. I’m sure there are very few individuals skilled enough to scavenge through 18 PAGES of posts to find the few relevant posts, and the skills to figure it out. A guide would help us peasants who at least know how to use a soldering iron. But that would be time consuming so it’s understandable if you don’t want to do it.
It’s not really a cop out. It’s more like not spoon feeding.
What’s wrong with spoon feeding? There’s like, millions of DIY guides on the internet. It’s for people not as technically skilled as the guide author. These authors want to share their talent with others. But like I said, authoring one takes time so fine if he doesn’t want to. But people who want a guide aren’t babies.
Pretty much everything you need to know to do his mod is on Page 17. Compare the image of the pinout with what he posted and it should be pretty obvious what’s going on. The only thing I can’t make out is how he is getting the +5v to both boards, but I’m sure there is a wire hiding in there somewhere.
You don’t need to scavenge through 18 pages, as I (and others) have said, only the last couple have what you need.
Pinouts have already been listed multiple times and I’ve provided pics when available as additional references.
Anyone is free to attempt to compile all the relevant info into one post and others can review and confirm if accurate…walla, guide.
USB connected via the harness to the stock PCB then theres a red wire from the FB connected to VCC pin on stock pcb.
In the first pic at the bottom with the red wire, you’ll notice there’s a 2nd red wire coming around the edge of the board. It looks like the 2nd red wire is going down to the bottom right corner along with the jlf harness but its not. Camera angle just happened to catch the orange jlf wire going under the stock PCB at the exact same spot as VCC from FB coming around the edge to the pinout lol
does anyone else have problems with the plexi being a little loose and sliding? ive tighten all the screws and it slides a bit still. i picked it up second hand if that makes a difference. its in good condition
Ahh! I see it now. I couldn’t tell if that was just extra solder / flux, but since you pointed out the wire, it all makes sense.
I should be receiving the white one today and a Dark Blue variant on Thursday (supposedly new in box). I will let you know.
No, not unless you add an on/off switch/button to do it.
Both of the ones I’ve worked on didn’t have any issue with plexi sliding.
The PCB of my white FE is broken, and I bought it recently.
Is there anything I can do regarding Hori support or where can I find a replaceable PCB for it?
How long you had your White FE?
This one I used it for about 2 weeks.
It’s the second FE that had the same problem
OK so for the wiring up the start and select buttons to a ps360+ I need 5v, ground, start and select. Which color wires go where? I have orange for ground and Grey for guide but there are still green, yellow, black, white, and an additional orange.
Apparently I was looking at the wrong side. I for some reason thought that the start and select buttons were on the same side as the guide but they are on the other side and there are a lot more wires coming from there. @Gummo @Darksakul
This is going off memory so please double check with a multimeter or something (specially #3 & #4).
You should have 4 sets of cables coming out of the 3 spots on the touchpanel side:
[list=1]
[] 3 (black white and purple) are for the side LED strip. White = ground, black = blue LEDs, purple = Red LEDs. Example, if you want them to light up in blue, you connect VCC with 100ohm resistor to the black wire.
[] 6 (red, white, black, yellow, green, orange) are for the touchpanel. Orange = gnd, Green = start, yellow = select and red = 5v vcc. The rest you don’t need.
[] 7 (grey, orange, green, yellow, black, white, red) are for the touchpanel LEDs. White = VCC with 100ohm resistor, red = gnd (@shadowsoldier89 thanks for confirming :))
[] 10 (colors don’t matter since you won’t be using this) are for the button reassignment functions which you can’t take advantage of so ignore all of these.
[/list]
Awesome! I’m not planning on wiring up the LEDs for now so this should be enough to get start and select working. Thank ya much!
so I’m starting the mod on a fighting edge and seem to have most of the info I need. One thing im wondering though is about the touch panel buttons
@ChaoticMonk mentioned that Red, White, Black, Yellow, Green, and orange are from the touchpad button functionality. What I’m trying to figure out is that one of those other two wires he didnt describe is the config button and tournament mode button? If so is it possible I could wire up Start to start, select to touchpad, and tournament button to share?
I can probably test this as Im doing it but thought I would ask first
My other question is about the LEDs for the side strips. If I wire those to the player outs, can I skip the resistors on those lines? if thats the case I wouldnt mind setting the Blue lights to player one and red lights to player 2, and is it ok to run both the left and right side strips to the same player out on the board? This is one thing Id definitely like an answer on though if someone is able, since I dont want to blow out the LEDs, I know I at least need to solder in a resister for the LEDs for the touchpad.
This is the brook im using, not the universal: http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/fgc-console-joystick/1660-brook-ps3ps4-fighting-board-with-paradise-breakout-.html
thanks in advance anyone that can help.
Didn’t think to try it but don’t see why not. Test and see 
I believe the black one is tournament and white is config.
Yes, the player LED points on the board already have resistors in place
Yes, you can.
My advice would be to use the existing pcb as a host and connect the brook to it like I did here. This lets the stock pcb manage the LEDs and touchpanel for you so no need to worry about resistors and such.
I started experimenting and couldnt get the player LEDs working with the brook board. I tore out the host board. However I was pleased to get the Config button wired to Select and was using it was taking screenshots on PS4 with it no problem. You were right that White is config. I went with config over tournament since config is on the same LED band as start and select, tournament is on its own due to the Red/Blue swap it does normally.
Here is my final build
@ChaoticMonk I tried as you described but now when I plug the stick in nothing is working. Do I maybe have ground and vcc mixed up? I can’t imagine plugging something in would make the whole thing stop working.
I tried swapping the red and orange wires to see if I had the vcc and ground mixed up but when I plugged it in nothing worked. When I disconnected all four wires (green,yellow,red,orange) the stick works fine.
Not sure what to do here.
the only thing I remember right now about chaotic’s post is that red is most definitely ground, he was unsure between red and black for set number 3
for set number 2, be sure you arent mixing up the red and orange, orange is the ground