This makes more sense. I agree that a certain degree more precision may be required if this is true. I need to do some more comparisons of the gates and switch placement to determine what may be causing these issues. Everything has been fine for me but at first I did notice that I was missing up-forward jump cancels with Juri in xTekken. I chalked it up to readjusting to a square gate and since then I haven’t had much issue if any.
For now I’ve just been getting used to it, pretty much just using it as an excuse to work on my execution. I’ve always had trouble with dragon punch motions and double qcf motions getting mixed up in sf4 so it’s kinda forcing me to learn to stop early on the dp motions. I’m just hoping it sells well enough for someone to make octagonal gates for it since I prefer those.
@Moonchilde is working on a gate solution. Trying to gauge interest in it because he would like to do injection molding instead of just plexi like the Mahina (LS-5x) gates currently available a Paradise Arcade Shop. Injection molding is a little more expensive but it should make for a much higher quality unit. The plan is to make a design with snap in inserts so you can quick swap gate styles without unscrewing the gate base.
I gave that a shot, but I’m getting no response from start or select. 
(At least I’m more prepared for a PS4 mod should I need to do one, I guess.)
Gummo mentioned that the 360 board does the inversion, and that the post-inversion points for start/select would be on transistor legs. Not sure exactly how to safely and efficiently go about finding those with a multimeter.
My experience has been different than other people’s.
I’m still amazed this stick has non-levered microswitch tabs like the JLF.
Again, mostly feels like a Seimitsu joystick.
Throw is definitely longer than an LS-32 or LS-40 but not as bad as the JLF… and the darn thing actually re-centers/snaps back at least as well as the LS-joysticks! Once you get over the slightly longer throw, it’s a very comfortable joystick. Again, it’s a practice/timing thing and I certainly didn’t find it insurmountable.
I don’t agree about the diagonal criticism… I definitely feel that that the Hayabusa hits diagonals more consistently than the LS-joysticks and certainly much better than the JLF!
I don’t know what games people are using for their tests… I’m using Super Street Fighter II Turbo HD and Vampire Resurrection (Darkstalkers 2) for mine. The SF IV series is probably NOT a good game to do tests because of a deliberately slower pace to that game. CPS-2 games and Tekken are probably better tests for speed issues, recentering, dash-dash moves, and the like. SF IV and more recent games don’t push the control lever hardware as hard in my honest opinion. I think you can definitely get away with worse controller hardware in a slower-paced game!
If you’re used to levered microswitches, going to a Hayabusa may feel weird to you for a little bit. (For me, the throw issue was worse but I adjusted pretty quickly. It’s a comfortable joystick for me!) I’d say within two hours use, I got over that and it’s at least as comfortable to me as the LS-32 is but still outperforms that joystick and the LS-40. I’m not saying it’s 200% better than those joysticks but it definitely felt like at least a 12-15% improvement to me and that’s more than enough for me!
If worst comes to worst, you can do the microswitch mod Moonchilde did on his Hayabusa. It’s not ridiculously hard if you’re handy with a Dremel and the parts aren’t that difficult to get after all…
And of course only USA can buy an Hayabusa for now…
Anyone willing to take care of a small order with EU reshipping ?
I would want in on such a deal also.
I got my white fighting edge today, played a few hours of AE, and I have mixed feelings over it. I thought my execution was going to be better and that I would prefer the hayabusa, but I guess I’ve been so used to the JLF. One thing I know is, that this stick takes some getting used to, as I was dropping combos I normally hit in my first few matches with it. Also, I can’t say I am a fan of the kuros at the moment, the buttons are squeaky right now and they are definitely alot firmer and have a longer travel distance than sanwas, but I’m sure they will break in. Again, I am very used to sanwa parts. On the other hand, I do appreciate the shorter throw of the hayabusa, movements and such feel tighter, I’m sure I will adapt to it and love it.
I got the PS3 version of the stick and I must say the thing is beautiful, its a work of art really. The thing is mad solid and works great on your lap and even better on a table, it really feel is stable with the rubber padding.
I’m going to continue playing with it and decide if I want to switch out the buttons for sanwas as I prefer the softer/feathery feel of sanwas. But all in all, this is a fantasic stick, I love the extra space and it feels and looks so nice. The LEDs for tournament mode are a bit bright though and I prefer not to play with them on.
Anyways that is my 2 cents on the stick so far, I will report later on, once it gets broken in and I get fully used to it.
Shenmue,
I also have the Fighting Edge and much prefer it over my Razer Atrox. The build quality of the FE is solid unlike the Razer Atrox which flexes. I have been a long time Sanwa user but now prefer using the Hayabusa and Kuros. The Kuros does squeak for a while but once you break them in. The squeaking will stop and won’t be as firm. They also have a larger surface than the Sanwa which I prefer.
I also never knew that the extra space between the buttons and stick would actually provide more comfort. I also never played on the NOIR layout but I like it much better than the vewlix layout. Can’t believe I’ve been missing out on the NOIR layout all this time :).
Keep using it and I bet once you get used to the Hayabusa you will find that the Sanwa JLF has a delayed mushy feel to it. Hard to explain but you will notice it after playing on the Hayabusa for a while. The Hayabusa is more responsive than the JLF in my opinion.
The FE is a great stick I’m so glad I’ve decided to go out of the norm and try it. I’ve owned it for 2 months now and will not go back to using Sanwas .
Do you guys check-in your fighting edge or carry it on?
Carry On
- More space between buttons and joystick is preferable. The old Dreamcast/Agetec joystick had about perfect spacing between the control lever and buttons. An HRAP 1/Tekken 5 joystick also has very good spacing between your controls once you lose the first two buttons starting from the left. The great “spacing mean” seems to be roughly an average-sized person’s palm-width (3.5-4 inches) between buttons and control lever. A lot of “real estate” space on many joystick faceplates gets wasted IMHO. The levers and buttons could definitely have stood to have been spaced further apart on the older HRAP’s and first generation Mad Catz TE’s and SE joysticks.
The spacing between lever and buttons on the later production joysticks Hori has made (HRAP N3 SA, HRAP V3 Kai, Fighting Edge) can’t be beat for comfort.
- JLF’s don’t recenter very quickly, period. The Hayabusa and every LS-joystick I’ve used have faster re-centering, period. It’s a basic, glaring JLF design flaw, IMHO, and one of the primary reasons I stopped using the JLF… Off the type of my head, I think at least 3 other Japanese control levers including Hayabusa are better than the JLF.
Definitely agree George. Hori needs to start releasing all their sticks with their own Hayabusa and Kuro parts.
Speaking of the Kai models. Would the Hayabusa fit on it? I’m thinking of picking one up now since they decided to put more space between the button and stick.
I just wish they made a NOIR style layout instead of the vewlix.
I’m not much of a masher, but the kuros are definitely harder to mash out of a dizzy and the button height is a lot higher than sanwas and they have sharp edges.
@shenmue I would be interested in buying your white kuro buttons if you want to sell them for a fair price. need a couple more incase mine break for a project.
I’m still on the fence about them, I do like the way they look on the stick, if I do decide to part with them, you’ll be the first to know.
Thanks.
Thanks! I actually just need 4, I could trade you 4 brand new black ones if you wanted to swap, otherwise I’d offer cash. Just let me know.
Thanks!
I heard diagonal motions were weird with this stick, also how are the kuro buttons for plinking?