most hdmi TV’s will accept 720 1080 and 480 and it should not do any modification to the signal what so ever its all zero’s and ones a digital signal HDMI/DVI while everything else is analog a physical signal that why people say buying flashy/pricey hdmi cables is worthless because either you tv gets the ones and zeros or it does’nt and you just get no signal not bad/good nothing Analog on the other hand can get outside crap so shielding is necessary so anyway the tv receives a digital signal from the FM so any delay will be with the intake not output so what ever its outputting throught hdmi wont matter so pick what ever you think looks best
I’ve noticed my TV won’t take 480p through HDMI (I have a component to HDMI adapter to capture Wii/PS2). I didn’t know most did. My bad.
So we’re not even discussing output from the FM to the TV that’s a completely different point and it’s a non-issue? Fantastic.
So here’s where things stand in my mind:
RGB SCART: Goes in with a passive adapter (still got no link) looks ACE, awesome.
Component: This guy: http://global.rakuten.com/en/category/electronics/other_tvs/av_cables/d_terminal_component_cable/ the absolute best way to do component
Composite for NES because 90% of people are stuck with that. And however it is, it’s better than what I have now (Composite->TV)
Dreamcast… SCART? I don’t know. Someone on Shmups said something else, I’ll try digging that up when I get a minute and I’m not tired as hell.
Thanks for the patience, it’s just a big investment and I’m looking to make the first post have a section for people with deep pockets and I want to be able to get a solid “real” price (after buying all the converters necessary).
I do 720p instead of 1080p because I’m using the scanline emulation. That’s also why I’m preferring to run DC games in 240p when possible. 
And on the lag end, even if there is any, it doesn’t seem to affect my ability to play. Maybe I’m just the right combination of aged and unskillful, but I don’t notice any.
Framemeister expert Fudoh had this to say:
XRGB1,2,2+,3 in B1 mode are really basically lag-free (certainly less than 4ms). Frameister’s faster than most TV’s analogue SD inputs and faster than the XRGB-3 in B0.
Smashbro: Everyone has a different threshold for feeling lag. My 50" plasma has about 26ms of input lag in game mode, and my 23" lcd monitor has about 16ms. I cannot feel a difference at all.* Fudoh is giving you the actual data points, but unless you have just killer reflexes (which some people do), you’re likely to not notice such small differences.
*granted, I’m barely above scrub level in most fighting games, and I’m ‘small town hot’ in shmups
I’m aware of that, I just like to cut down on it as much as possible if I can. Fudoh’s numbers are AMAZING, why NOT take the amazing?
Regardless of whether you feel the Earth rotating, you’re still affected by it.
IMO, perception is not a requirement for being influenced by input lag. A few frames are not negligible in fighting games. Whether or not you notice it is secondary.
MIND.
BLOWN.
Thank you. I realize now that I’ve clearly been wrong about everything ever. Here I was thinking that we were just talking about videogames.
If you were wrong about everything ever, I’d have to re-write a lot.
you can use the vga output w/ a scart connection if you combine the h/v sync line (there is a circuit somewhere on shmups forum and elsewhere) and feed it through the front with the rest of your rgb scart inputs (i don’t know the required cabling for that - there are vga -> scart cables out there but you’ll have to make some modifications). Or you can feed it into the dsub with your other component connections with a vga -> component transcoder.
I’m looking for that circuit so I can have it all in one easy cable but I just can’t find it.
Mainly because it seems like the best solution, it’ll be put in like all of the older systems and I’ll still retain the better native resolution. Seems like the best move.
Can you not simply join H and V sync into one line to make composite sync? I’m thought they don’t go at the same time, so they shouldn’t interfere by being on the same line, but I could be missing something.
edit: NOPE. I found this and eviltim knows his stuff so I’d trust this 100%: http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/scart.htm
Well Fudo Said: To run a DC through a Scart switch into the Mini, preserving the VGA signal, you need a custom cable. It has to include a sync combiner circuit to convert RGBHV to RGBs.
When asked how to make it: has been posted in this thread before. It’s a very simply sync combiner circuit.
If you don’t want to built a custom cable or can’t find anyone to do it, you can use a RGB interface ($30) to simply convert from RGBHV to RGBs, but it’s an additional piece of equipment and certainly not neccessary.
So basically, I’m looking for the instructions on how to make that cable and then everything will be A-OK.
The thread where you will also find me asking 10000000 questions: http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=33450&p=866680#p866680
Sounds like it’d be simpler to just use a SCART RGB cable from the multi AV output on the DC.
Simpler yes but if I’m gonna spend 400$ on a video processor you can be damn sure I’ll spring the extra effort to make this look marginally better.
Aren’t you getting 15khz rgb out of the DC VGA box? Which is the same RGB, save for separate sync, that you get from SCART with RGBS? How will that look better? It shouldn’t look different at all.
You could be totally right, I’d love to go run this by Fudoh, he’s the one who put the idea in my head, it’s gotta exist for some real reason.
So basically, it makes it so every game will work through this either as RGB or VGA but all using one cable?
Yes: it makes it so that games that don’t support 31khz can still output via the D-Sub “VGA” connector at their native 15khz.