So I wanna put a Brook UFB in my PS4 Hitbox. I know all the buttons can pretty much be screwed into the post on the UFB but what about the USB? the USB on the Hitbox looks like 4 wires soldered/hot glued into place or something. Will I need to solder those 4 only and if so to where?
Just order a 10 to 15 foot USB cable when you order your UFB. Then you can swap out the old pcb and USB cord for the new ones.
and am I right that you can just plug the 20pin thing into the UFB off the old PCB and youāre done?
On UFB board itās labeled what wire goes where.
Red == VCC
White == D-
Green == D+
Black == GND
So whatās the latest Hitbox tech for SFV? Especially in regards to Necalli.
Lastly got any tips for cr.block into dp on P2 side? I can do this easily on P1side with:
ā < 2(hold), 6 (tap x2) XX MP > ā
yet struggle to do the same tech on P2 side. perhaps there is some shortcut that could help me transition from cr.block to insta-shoryu on P2 side?
Could anyone provide me with a hitbox template for the Hori V3-SA / VX-SA please. Impossible to find.
Because there isnāt any
If you want those sticks to have a hitbox template you have to make one for your self from scratch.
So does anyone swap the hitbox pcb to brook UFB? any photos? It sound tempting
I think a lot of people have done that. I asked about it either in this thread or the brook UFB one. You just gotta get a UFB, and hook up all the cables to the screws, then Jasen recommended just getting a new USB cable to plug into the UFB and out of the stick to the console/PC. Hitbox is awesome and being able to use it on most any system is G.
whats the point then to get a hitbox in the first place.
the case itself isnt that great and modding te or other sticks into a hitbox will not cost moreā¦i would say even much less.
Anybody got any tips for doing flames of the faltine loops with Dr. Strange on the hitbox? I canāt seem to get it for the life of me. i feel like I canāt get the instant air impact palm out fast enough, People mention doing the magnetic blast motion but Iāve never been able to hit those consistently without switching from my right to left thumb for up.
To be honest, I agree with you. If I knew all about these options before, I would not buy ps4 hitbox.
can you find me a link for a photo?
The case is 100% metal, thatās not true for a good portion of the competition. Maybe you donāt like the look or donāt think itās thick enough, but itās an incredibly durable and sturdy case. In the going on 7 years we have been doing business, we have never had a single complaint about the case.
In regards to price, Hit Box out of the box is $200 plus shipping. The price of the Razer Panthera is $200 plus shipping. The price of the Qanba Obsidian is $200 plus shipping. Now, you can get a Hori Real Arcade Pro V/Hayabusa/etc for $150 plus shipping, but the majority of that case is plastic which is how they get the price down so much and they no longer use Sanwa buttons but instead Hori first party hardware. Madcatz is defunct. To convert one of these sticks into a Hit Box you would either need to buy a new top panel or make a new top panel yourself and then buy more buttons. New top panel and extra buttons is likely to run you an extra $30 plus shipping. Out of all of these options, the only one you could save money converting into a Hit Box is the HRAPV/Hayabusa, but then you have a plastic case and you donāt have Sanwa buttons. Some people like the Hori buttons, but if you donāt and want to replace them to have all Sanwa itās not cheaper.
The only possible way you could save cost is making it yourself, in which making your own controller is always cheaper than buying one because you donāt need to cover production/labor and thatās not a Hit Box exclusive issue that weāre just screwing people over on. Thatās the cost of doing business and every manufacturer has to deal with it and you pay for it everywhere you go.
Man, You make me want to say something. Do you know why people buying pre-made sticks? One, not everyone is an expert in making own stick and simply donāt want to. Two, reliability.
This is exactly why I bought a PS4 hitbox spending over 200 dollars, not because it is made with a metal box.
However, I got a product that does not run with a firmware on the website (I have to use brookās after I found this forum), and horrible customer service that asks me to send photos and completely ignores my emails for over a month (I never got a response). I understand Hitbox arcade is a small company, and it is difficult to compete with big boys in price and services. Plus, It is always good for customers to have more options to choose from and this is why I try to understand your situation and try not to share a lot of negative things. but if you think a metal box is what every customer want, and it makes hitbox arcade as a superior option? Well, please think again.
thats all fine for the product itself when you buy it, plug it in and can go on.
but my reply was made to the guy who wanted to put a other pcb in it.
no one buys a hitbox to mod it afterwards, they buy it to get a finished product on which they dont want/have to lay hands on anymore.
thats why i questioned if it makes sense to buy the hitbox when you want to replace the pcb later on which increase of course the price.
Hey guys Iām really sorry, I just got my PS4 hitbox on Friday, and have been having timeout issues. I followed everything I could in this thread, I tried the firmware on Hitboxarcade.com , the PS3 PS4 Small Board v14 from GG. With both these I still get the 8 minute timeout.I also the PS3PS4FightingBoard_Online from Brooksā site, this one seems to recognize the controller hold R2 (If I hold R2, all inputs will work) Sorry I know this has been asked too many times, but I was under the impression that newer hitboxes (Post june/July 2016) had this issue resolved. Again sorry as I know this has been asked, but I canāt figure this out. Also, I apologize, Iām not very familiar at all with PCB boards/ terminology
https://www.hitboxarcade.com/blogs/ps4-firmware-update
ā***UPDATE 4/29/17: Firmware Update Coming Soon: We are aware of this issue with new PS4 System Software update. ETA mid next week (please check back here for updates). A new firmware update will be added shortly. In the meantime plugging and re-plugging in your Hit Box between games will keep you in the action for the time being.ā
Has anyone using the brooks ufb with this months update 1.9 like the new socd inputs? I have the brooks ps3ps4 fb w update 1.8 so cannot try. According to the post, it makes it so the second input left or right takes priority, no more neutral.
I updated a couple of days ago and the SOCD is the same as before. It looks like the patch notes are explaining how to toggle between two modes of SOCD. Opening and shorting J2_4 and J2_5, Iām assuming those are terminals on the board 