Yes, but only with a cps1 jamma board connected.
And diode-ing the signal lines fixed it? That’s beyond weird.
I left the FGW Converter setup going overnight, and no misbehavior I can see, with a digital PSX pad or without anything connected to the converter, it all appeared to work fine.
I tried button remapping yesterday (I overlooked it earlier due to trying to get everything else working) the 3punches gets mapped fine as well as mk. (pressing the buttons in the order you stated) sometimes I need a filler button at the beginning or else it falls behind by 1 button . and lk and HK seem to be stuck mapped to Start and Select. Also, I seem to have to hit 1 button when I finish mapping as well, to return to normal playing mode. (I hit OTHER buttons other than start and select so that’s not the reason why it’s stuck mapped to those keys…)
I know how the buttons are mapped and when I’m in the button setting mode because I’m staring at the CPS2 input test mode as I’m setting and testing the buttons… My short term solution is to rewire my start and select keys to the Kicks on my stick because luckily in ST, Start and select don’t do anything when you’re in the middle of a match. (thank goodness there’s no taunt button in ST)
Well, since dioding I haven’t noticed any problems so I’m assuming everything’s fine, but who knows. In any case it sounds like something wrong on my end. Thanks for checking it out.
The Converter works perfectly Gummo. I was also thinking of originally making the converter a PSX, SNES and Saturn to MC Cthulhu and Xbox 360 adapter but that fizzled out as I ran into issues doing the mod. You can potentially have one of the few SNES to SNES in existence with the right cables in place.
Although Saturn to SNES is more Epic.
Just got my reprogrammed chips in the mail and they work flawlessly. Thank you so much Toodles!
As some of you may remember I had an issue with stuttering inputs on one of them, it’s gone now. When I tried the capacitor addition, I only soldered one onto the converter without the input stuttering so over this last weekend I went ahead and did that. While I had my iron out I fixed up all of the solder points on the converter except the PS2 adapter because when I soldered those I was out of practice, it wasn’t awful but it wasn’t pretty either. That seems to have done the trick. Thanks again for everyone’s help, now as soon as I swap these reversed kick buttons, my supergun will be functional 
Great to hear. Please run through and try out any PSX controller you can get your hands on and let me know how they fare. Id prefer to know about any problems sooner rather than later, especially in regards to compatability on the button remapping code.
I tested out a dual shock 2 before testing the sticks and it worked perfectly as well. I haven’t had a chance to try button remapping but I’ll give it a shot tonight.
There is one thing I just remembered that’s more of an oddity than an actual issue I think. I have the MC Cthulhu stick wired up to use start+select=home and when I hold s+s in the input menu of the cps2 board, it activates Start, Coin, and Up. This happened in both player slots (so both converters) and only with the MC Cthulhu, it did not happen with the Kitty or the dual shock 2 which is why I think it’s related to the s+s=home. I don’t see it as a problem since that shouldn’t affect anything, just thought it was worth noting.
Appreciated, but that sounds normal. If my boards see a ‘Home’ button press in PSX mode, it will tell the console/converter that Up+Select is pressed. THis was to help folks who wanted to use a PSX->360 converter instead of dual modding. Many of those converters will treat a Up+Select from the gamepad as a Guide button press, since there is no third button to press on original PSX digital pads and PSX arcade sticks. So if you used a MC with one of those converters, pressing Home would activate Guide on the 360.
Sounds good, dont be afraid to let me know if any other weirdness pops up.
Ohhh right, I forgot that up+select can act as home. Figured it was normal Will definitely keep you updated. I’ve got some wiring to fix on my harnesses tonight but I’ll test out the button remapping by the end of the weekend and let you know if I encounter anything unexpected.
I just mailed out my chips today. Please check your PMs. Thanks Toodles.
Got the replacement chips and tested perfect in all the controllers I was previously having trouble with. There are no further issues as far as I can tell
For various reasons, I’m redoing the wiring on both of my converters and I’m thinking of throwing screw terminals on the PSX adapter side because I’m had a lot of issues with the wiring in the adapters I’m using. I tried measuring it out the distance between the centers of the holes but I wanted to double check with you before grabbing some. They look to be 2.5mm apart, is this correct?
2.54mm/0.1"
I know I PMed you already, but I’m posting here just in case as well, I havn’t tested the chips yet. but they DID turn up in the mail today. you do NOT have to reship the package.
Alright, so I tested the Chips, Most of the problems are fixed. except, I still can’t map the kicks away from start + select. I can live with that though (quick disconnects for start + select) there’s one problem though. Boxer. his turnaround punch when using the kicks, will activate up. is there a way to disable this function?
It also occured to me today that the start/select may be my supergun. in which case, how does the FGwidget map the two extra kicks? to the DB-15?
I think my supergun works around it by making start/select act as both. if that’s the case, it should be simple enough to rewire the supergun myself and get those kicks to function independently, But all the pinouts for DB-15 I find online is neo-geo, and well, they don’t have the 2 extra buttons…
I should point out that I didnt reprogram the chips you sent me, I sent you new ones (both times). I’d suggest you look into the wiring between the converter and the supergun.
I took apart my supergun and the second paragraph of my last post is correct. start and select buttons have wires running to the kick harness’ and start and select on the jamma pins.
Also, there are 4 unused pins for the DB15, therefore the question now is: which of these pins does the converter map to MK and HK?
Again, I found pinouts for DB-15 but they refer to the NEOGEO AES controller which, well. has 4 unused pins…
So the problem is due to way the gun was originally wired seems to be a workaround to get kick functionality within the confines of a neogeo AES controller.
Im confused. Assuming you haven’t remapped, pressing the Circle button on your pad/stick causes the Circle point on the converter to drop low. If you want that button to the ‘Forward’ (aka 2K), then you connect the Circle point on the converter to the 2K wire on the kick harness that plugs into the CPS board. How your supergun does that? No idea.
If you’ve got a pinout of the connector on your supergun, it should be easy. If you don’t, or they do other tricks like those connections, then things get difficult. Assuming its a DE-15 type connection, then I’d recommend changing the pinout on the supergun to match the one shown for Laugh’s converter, and make your FGW Converters go to the same pinout for their DE-15.
Thank goodness laugh provided his pinout. That works well for me, and a couple of people I know use laugh’s converters as well. , and having no standards for supergun is precisely why I waited till you had the button mapping function before purchasing. Alright, everything should be good to go. Thanks for all the help.