I don’t know how to help, but I came here to say that while it annoys me to do a FADC in SF4 using a Sanwa JLF (I find it uncomfortable), I’m ok with it if I use a Hori Hayabusa. For me that’s because the engage is slightly shorter. If there’s another reason, I’d like to know.
TL;DR The JLF annoys me a bit, the Hayabusa doesn’t.
The engage is not shorter. Perhaps you simply prefer a lighter feeling joystick? Hayabusa doesn’t seem to have as much tension these days in comparison to a JLF. That means you have less resistance to inputs, but slower return to neutral. Maybe in your case that works out a little better.
I’m wondering what kind of tolerances are normally held with these parts. We’re not talking huge numbers here, but it was enough of a difference to prevent that gate/actuator combo (which worked in 4 JLF levers I had) from hitting diagonals in my Hayabusa.
Does the ls-40 and JLW have similar throw and engage?
Not the same but very similar
Similar enough where the LS-40 is my substitute for the JLW
Any reason why you aren’t using one now? I see they are in stock at Paradisearcade, if it’s actually correct. Is the body bigger than a Hayabusa or something?
JLW, Hayabusa, LS-40, LS-32 are all smililar sizes. LS-32, JLW, and LS-40 are closest when it comes to microswitch placement, close enough that you can force a LS-32 PCB (which fits on a LS-40) into a JLW. It’s not a perfect fit but not enough of a difference that you can’t force it in. The LS-40 PCB won’t fit because of where the PCB lays on top of the switches comes into contact with the JLW walls and you can’t place the switches down all the way and then the gate won’t be able to be screwed on because the PCB covers the screw holes.
The JLW has a larger actuator so it may engage a little faster, but because the switches are a little further apart it probably ends up pretty similar to what you’d get on a LS-40. LS-40 actuator has a slight slope to the bell part of the actuator so it will contact the levers of the switches a little later because of that. The shaft on a JLW is much taller than either the lS-40 or LS-32 so there will be more range above the panel when it comes to fine motions.
The JLW shaft is longer than the JLF shaft so a JLF shaft cover won’t fit it perfectly?
Do the ls-40 and ls-32 share the same spring?
You can add a small spacer between the JLF shaft cover and the pivot to fit a JLW. Yes, the LS-40 and LS-32 share the same spring, so if you want a LS-40 with more tension you can get a LS-38 spring and use that one instead.
This morning I discovered that tightly screwing in the Hayabusa gate causes the lever to move less smoothly. I don’t understand why this would be, maybe makes the plastic more rigid, but it does have a very noticeable impact. I recommend screwing in the gate as lightly as possible, just enough so it won’t fall when slamming on it.
I’m too lazy to find the original Hayabusa thread so I’ll just leave that here. This is only the second problem I’ve had with the Hayabusa, and both problems were easily fixable. In regards to the topic things like throw, deadzone, and engage are not only modifiable but easily modifiable on any lever so I don’t think it’s really worth stressing over. However, the pivot can’t be changed which makes it paramount. I think the Hayabusa still has the best pivot but maybe I need to try more sticks. I can think of a better pivot too so hopefully that comes in the future.
Finding a if not new a decent condition Sanwa JLW and not a clone like the Ultrimarc J-stick is getting hard now
LS-40 is easier to find. I still have a stick with a JLW and continue to use it.
@mIRC the gate is made out of lexan so I don’t think it’s flexing. Too tight week cause stress though and y you’ll feel it more when you hit it because of how rigid and brittle it is compared to something soft like nylon. If you want to use a different pivot you can throw in a JLF pivot. Didn’t matter if it’s exact since the design of Hayabusa is single point contact, doesn’t need to fit perfect.
Well, after more testing with the 6k loop combo, slowly comes back again ie more or less “muscle memory” i lost it due to changing sticks. But the best sticks for reaction/speed in order to do this insane hard combo.
The loop starts with simply forward+k its a shoulder move that can not be linked multiple times in order to do so one must use another special move as buffer ie Hammerfal= charge move and also hammerfal break so…in order to link multiple forward+k i need to buffer charge hammerfall plus make it stop break=plinking p+HS all in the same time as the forward+k is still active. You have like 2 or 3 frames window to connect another 6k by using the above mentioned technique which is stupidly hard to pull of. Which makes the “simple looking” forward dash 6k link multiple times.
Number 1
Sanwa jlf-tprg-8ayt-sk silent (v2) + 1mm Kowal actuator its simply the best out of all sticks i used. Quality feel, smooth as butter.
Number 2
Seimitsu LS-40-01 this to can manage the loop but the spring is to stiff so i changed it to a LS-32 spring note here after reading they are the same but the colors are different 32 is brownish while the 40 is black i could have sworn the 32 is less stiff maybe placebo effect? But it works now can do the loop better and better with it, almost on par with number 1.
Number 3
Seimitsu LS-32-01
I would say its harder to pull of the loop but with effort it can be done now here comes the difference between the 32 and 40 its noticeable the throw, but engage, dead zone do not know what exactly but its there
Number 4
Hori Hayabusa + modded 1mm Kowal actuator used both square and octagonal gate. This stick feels great smooth and responsive BUT totally fails with the 6k loop it just refuses to cooperate no matter what i do. Its a shame though would have been my second favourite stick craftmanship is good with this stick.
Number 5
Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT + 1mm Kowal actuator HARD time managing the 6k loop it simply isnt fast enough plus QFC have issues it feels weird not my favourite. Changed back to stock actuator and gets even worse…
**Which of the Seimitsu springs are less stiff then the LS-32?
Is it LS-60 and LS-33?
**
I agree its a nice stick i do remember doing FADC in SF4 with Ryu on a pad bit tricky to do, but he wasn’t my main Boxer was and his 1 frame Ex- upper loop combo. But remembering FADC and doing the 6k loop the difficulty between them is gigantic its like “David vs Godzilla” and the Hayabusa simply fails in that aspect its not a fast stick when you need those “frame speed reactions”. Have you tried a LS-40 in doing FADC and tell me if you notice any difference?
@Moonchilde I should have been more clear in saying you can’t change the pivot housing.
As for the gate thing, yeah that’s what makes it confusing. I’m pretty sure it’s not the gate itself that changes because you can feel the lack of smoothness in the pivot before hitting throw, but the pivot housing is in the metal mounting plate so that makes less sense. Only other thing I can think of is that the mounting plate screws in from the other side, and the four screws from the gate are right on top of that. So maybe the screws act screwy when they’re all tightly screwed in? It’s weird. Wish someone smarter than me would try it to see what’s up.
The LS-58 spring is really light. Haven’t tried a 60, I believe it’s just a 58 with Omron switches. I haven’t tried a 33 either
LS-60 is either a lighter spring than the LS-58 or has switches with less tension. It’s the “light touch” joystick according to Seimitsu, to compete with the JLF.
The pivot housing is probably my least favorite aspect of the stick. I just don’t like how it feels once you put on a spring with more tension. JLF is much smoother in that regard. IMO, if you want the non-slope curved style pivot house, then get a JLF. If you want the slope, get the Hayabusa. That’s the major difference between the two levers, other than the Hayabusa having higher quality plastic for most of its parts.
Arcadeworld.uk only sells the LS-32, LS-33, LS-55, LS-56, LS-60 springs, is it correct to say that the LS-60 spring is lighter then the LS-32 spring? In any case il order one LS-58-01 joystick and all the mentioned springs except the LS-55.
Couldn’t tell you much about springs. I received springs of several strengths and didn’t like any of them other than the one that came with the Hayabusa. However, the springs I received were also taller than Hayabusa and JLF springs leading me to believe that I was sent springs from Seimitsu levers by mistake. I assumed the extra height was causing the spring’s metal to rub against one another when compressed between the spring flange and actuator, but if it’s actually the pivot that’s rather curious. In any case I prefer the weaker spring as it allows you to move faster, so the springs effect on smoothness hasn’t been a problem for me.
@LawShadow if you’re buying springs for a LS-32 then the 5x series won’t fit. You need to buy either LS-32 springs or LS-40 springs. LS-5x(plus60) levers can’t accept LS-32, LS-40 or LS-55 springs so don’t bother.
@mIRC The springs have varying height and coil widths depending on the tension they’re at. The extra height doesn’t hurt, unless it’s much larger in which case you probably got the wrong springs.