If you know anyone on Guam you can ship here since it’s close and then to Toodles via flat rate since it’s US.
Heh, the Tech Talk Railroad.
Appreciated man, but I dont think it’d be worth it. I still have real Neo AES joysticks I need to get into custom cases before I try out the knock offs.
The shaft now has the right height - I just didn’t post the pic after the adjustment (the last photo I posted still has it unadjusted). The shaft was too high without the washers and so I put 5 washers per side.
I’ll take a look around GH when I get the time. But I feel building a new custom stick would be much worth than just modding one - even if it is an HRAP3. Though I have a feeling that an HRAP4 is just around the corner. 
Renamed the thread to something more descriptive/helpful.
Thanks; this was the original thread title and I was about to change it back to the generic Exar title to make it more intuitive
OMG i love green hills, when the police are coming, they call ahead to warn you…
Thanks for your guide, inspired me to fix up my kof exar stick
http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/6175/img6592x.th.jpg
I swapped out the button switches for sanwas that I had spare and put a couple layers of electrical tape around the plate edges to help stop the grinding
Reviving the thread due to the release of Exaprize’s recent release of the Sanwa edition stick. To celebrate the Sanwa stick I was about to make my newly purchased KOFXII PS3 USB stick a contrasting “Seimitsu edition” including copying the graphic of the Sanwa edition’s graphic but with Seimitsu instead haha.
Gonna go over a quick mod to fit a Sanwa JLF and Seimitsu LS stick without heavy mod of the top plate:
Since I’m using Seimitsu parts, the stick mod varies from Sanwa and Seimitsu.
Step 1: Open up the stick and take the stick apart.
Examine the stock mounting plate and you will notice two things:
- The mounting plate has two functions; secure the stick lever in place and has a hole in the center to act as a gate/restrictor.
- There are 8 indents conveniently placed around the hole in the center. Looks like the designers were thinking about arcade standard parts being swapped out because those indents are where the screws go in to secure the 4 micro switches and the other 4 are for the pegs of a standard gate(JLF and LS-56/58). Refer to ryuryan’s picture above because I forgot to take “before” pictures of my stick(sorry guys).
Step 2: Grab a drill and dremel kit, preparing stick assembly.
Depending on which company you’re gonna use, it maybe easy to somewhat troublesome because the stock mounting plate goes in between the micro switches and gate/restrictor:
Seimitsu stick: Looks like 5 Pin PCB / “-01” variants will not work since the PCB is located on the bottom of the assembly and the soldered spots get in the way of the mounting plate.
Sanwa stick: Standard JLF should fit fine because the PCB/5 Pin connector are located in between the body and micro switches. - Drill holes in the four indents that lock the micro switches in("+" pattern), I have 8 of these long screws from modding my Fighting Stick VX and V3 so they were perfect. Drill the other misaligned indents one size bigger to fit pegs from the restrictor.
- Order of stick assembly from top to bottom:
–Stick level body(remove the stick mounting plate that comes with the stick)
–Micro switches
–Mounting plate
–Restrictor
Note JLF’s restrictor probably needs to be drilled so that screws can lock in the entire assembly of the stick
Comparison from my LS-56-01 to my modified LS-56. Just think of PCB of the stick in my hand as the stock mount plate and remove the mounting plate that came with your Sanwa/Seimitsu stick. Stock EXAR restrictor is too small, you can see how much smaller it is with the LS-56 restrictor attached.
Step 3: Locking the stick back into place.
Just screw the screws back into place, simple as that. The only problem is that you probably need 4mm spacers in between the stick and the mounting area because the LS-56 measures up to 27mm from metal plate to bottom of the ball top.
As the rest goes, I’m gonna just take it to my friend who has electrical/wiring experience who has dual modded a ton of sticks including 5 of my own and there you go, the hardest part of the task is completed and you have yourself the most compact aftermarket stick that fits arcade parts without any real modification to the body.
reviving thread. will be buying the kof xii edition of my friend and i need it for modding purposes
I’m really thinking of having my cousin ship this to me from the Philippines. Are they easy to find at the malls or are there specific stores that have them?
Not alot of this here. I’ve seen more HRAPs and even Qanbas than these in use over here.
This thread must be “bumped”.
DO NOT perform syn13 's LS-56 mod… **unless you file or dremel off the inside square of the exar stock metal plate restrictor sufficiently ** !!
The stock Exar lever is a Seimitsu clone of the genuine LS30 (lever body) crossed with a LS32 (metal plate and socket grooves) as in the infamous Dreamcast Innovation stick and the original SNK AES stick (and a few other sticks) , but the square stock metal restrictor is much smaller than the square nylon restrictor hole of the LS-56 , so considering that LS56 and LS30clone have similar actuators (cylinders) that are relatively flimsy and can wear easily, it is best to widen the metal plate opening until no metal edge can contact the actuator when riding the gate…or else the LS56 actuator will never even touch the LS56 restrictor edge at full throw!!
Look at the the circled part on the pic and see the flat metal edge protruding seriously from inside the modded LS-56. I would say file 3-5mm max, more is better so the plate edge doesn’t line with the LS56 restrictor contact edge. IF you file more than enough no need to polish or smoothen anything.
If I had to replace the exar stock lever, I’d simply add a LS-32 square nylon restrictor, filing the inside edges of the plate to be double sure, or simply install a LS40 instead of a LS56, knowing that Exar wanted to dwell in the neogeo territory (although the more expensive exarsticks have sanwa jlf as stock, go figure…)
Okay, I find that a acceptable reason to spend 4 colorless and 1 black mana
But anyways, this give me some ideas for some future mods.
Perhaps a means of fitting a LS-56 into a Neo Geo AES stick.
Yeah I may have to do some minor dremeling but no worries.
Also this thread is now a Zombie on top its other creature types.