i’m positive that distance must affect latency because playing tekken5DR with my sixaxis from across the living room (maybe 8 feet) , just frame punishes aren’t as consistent as they were when i played wired on ps2, they didn’t change the timings of the move/punish frames, and on ps2 (wired) i get the punish 10/10 times, but now on ps3 (wireless) it’s more like 1/10 if i’m lucky
Yup. I sooo suck at it, but I was mostly curious to see if it worked with the Pelican converter to play beatmania on my PS3. It does, BTW.
Sending now. Just so we’re clear, they’re replay files, not videos. You’ll have to copy them to your PS3 and select the VF.TV option in VF5 to view them.
Alright, I’ll try to give it a shot at a semi-reasonable distance.
BTW, test against the sixaxis against the Cthulhu in VF4:Evo (PS2 title) with identical results, so one is not more laggy than the other on PS2 games. Tested a VSHG pcb against the Cthulhu in VF5, similar results (and a fifth replay replay file, Lion vs …Aoi I think. Lion, P1, was the Cthulhu on that replay)
Edit: Just tested using a 5" extension cable with a 5" USB cable, with everything tight and away from the PS3. The replay has Shun Di vs Aoi, and the inputs seems identical to what they were at a two foot range. Sorry, it doesn’t appear to be the controller. At a range of 10 feet, there is no change in observed behavior.
I’m gonna get ShinJN’s pcb ready to send back him to, and get to working on 360 in the morning.
I am guessing that it communicates wired when plugged in, since you can connect it to a Windows XP PC and use it. It worked for me, and I didn’t have Bluetooth on the PC. That doesn’t mean it’s the same way with the PS3, but at least it shows the controller is capable of sending signals when wired.
BTW, did you need another Sixaxis PCB? I might have one available, because I had to gut mine to replace a trigger on my DS3 that lost its resistance after only a month of use. I’d like to keep at least the other trigger, just in case, and maybe the battery too (if it works on the DS3; I’m not sure).
360 tests are done. This compared a new Wireless common ground pad (supplied by Crackbone) against the pcb from a Hori EX2/DOA4 (supplied by Tetsuosan). Wireless on P1 (Eileen) vs EX2 on P2 (El Blaze). The trigger setup is the same as the last test, except the wireless pad had to use three of the analog switch gates tied together; when not activated, a single gate shows a resistance of about 120k ohm, and the pad considered that enough to sometimes activate the button. Putting three together, unpressed resistance would be about 360k ohm, more than enough to keep the button from activating. Distance from wireless to xbox360 about 4 feet. I can’t just email the replays to people like I can with a PS3, so here’s photos of the replay with command display on.
Round 1: Six identical press and releases; third input with identical press, but the wireless showed the release a frame earlier than the EX2
Round 2: First three inputs are identical. Fourth shows the wireless releasing a frame earlier than the wired, fifth shows the press one frame earlier than the wireless, and release one frame after the wireless, next two inputs are match.
Round 3: Six perfectly matched inputs/releases, and one that shows the wired showing press a frame before the wireless.
Well, damn. Wireless tech has come along nicely I guess. There’s no clear winner here; wireless latency is is equivalent to the wired latency on the boards and pads tested. I was wrong in my assumption about the wired controllers; the only drawbacks to using them in a stick is the difficulty installing and dealing with power; there is no performance issues that I can find using a CG wireless 360 pad or SIXAXIS.
Toodles, awesome Test!! I’ve made an own wireless application development for my arcade stick. The lags are not noticable for me, but this is subjective impression. I wish I could measure the lag of my wireless application with your test bench.
I always suspected the wireless controllers didn’t lag (I was convinced after playing Penny Arcade Adventures with my wireless X360 controller doing the repeated “hit-the-button-when-the-meter-reaches-HERE” attacks) but I am really glad to see that someone put the time and effort into scientifically testing and verifying this. Props to you, Toodles!
Ok, I’m a few days late on this thread. I just now saw the test results and all I have to say is wow. Wireless technology sure has come a long way. There you have it folks, solid test results provided by Toodles. Now only if I can get over the fact that I have to solder wires to the PS3 PCB, I can get cracking on my customs.
Toodles, where did you get that ribbon cable you used on the SIXAXIS? I’m looking for anything I can use to ease the pain of soldering wires to the PCB. It will also minimize the chance of me screwing up one expensive PCB. lol.
And I see new components on the Cthulhu. Multiconsole here we come!
Great news considering I have a bunch of wireless sticks. lol I never have noticed any difference in performance and this confirms that. Toodles your the man.
The ribbon cable, and a small connector very much like the one on the SIXAXIS pcb, both came from Digikey. I was planning on making a ‘hack helper’ for the Sixaxis, so the soldering would be easier and you just plug in the ribbon cable, but flex pcb parts are a bit spendy. I’ll put it in when I send the pcb back; you’ll still have to solder to small legs though, so I cant say it will be easier work, but it may be less stressfull.
Is that extention from the connector in the center of the Sixaxis board the signal emitter (I assume an infrared LED) or is it somewhere else? I plan eventually to make a wireless stick and would kind of like the emitter of the signal (again, I assume the use of an LED) to sit in some opening in the box (that extention would make that easy).
IIRC, Sixaxis uses bluetooth, which is 2.4GHz radio. There’s no LED and no need for line of sight. From looking at ShinJN’s pcb, I’d expect the actuall broadcasting/receive part to be the metal box above the right analog stick, but I could be wrong. It doesn’t matter though, since you don’t need line of sight. Just put it in a box and it’ll work fine. Some people have put them into all metal boxes like some of finkle’s case and had them work fine, but it really seems weird to be to do that. If you’re putting it into a wood box, don’t sweat it, the RF will go through just fine.
lol yeah thats me. I have some wireless sixaxis sticks in metal finkle cases. They work fine. I just painted the inside to help prevent whatever but they both work well.