Except your post aren’t focused at all, you have dozens of threads that are all the exact same topic.
i’m gonna remember 2020 for coronavirus and this threads
That’s why I put up the right stick index.
If you look up entry number one, it was a longer post, ( before my self imposed 1000 character limit) but I used hidden comments within hidden comments. but only takes a full cell screen. if you want to go in the weeds. you can, but it’s just as easy to avoid, because they are clearly marked off.
Seriously, any help with a system that accepts analog signals, like all Xbox’s LT and RT, and the Wii original Classic Controller for TvC and quite a few non-fighting but otherwise perfect-for-digital-stick games.
Toughy: analog stick where 0% is maximum one cardinal extreme, and 100% the opposite cardinal extreme? Would be handy for an Atari 5200 and Vectrex.
There are cheap real world examples for the 15 pins PC gameport: NES style PC pads. Add a Bohoki adapter and you got a good digital Atari 5200 controller, which is handy in 80-90% of the 5200 games.
I have Stan cannibalize them. Maybe someone can understand the circuit.
For original Xbox use the MC cthulhu or Brooks Retro board
360 or Xbox one, use the Brooks universal
Trust me, it be alot easier on you.
Yes, that is the easy solution, and I’ll instruct Stan to take it for the 3 Xbox generations.
However Wii Classic controllers (first version. non-Pros) don’t have that easy of a solution.
Add to that certain games require Game Cube controllers, (which I have thanks to a Paradise Cthulhu) and others require the Wii Classic.
First of all are there any Wii Classic controller games that require continuousness of the triggers (use triggers in an analog way)? I do have 4 controllers. They were originally designed to play Game Cube games without a GC controller.
As for the digital games, I know the “easy labor” way to do it is Wii Classic Controller Pro. But vanilla classics are cheaper than classic Pros.
May I have the description of the analogizing of a digital physical button, (for the purposes of the control language, where it’s either all zeroes or all ones. not talking about the physical button).
Stan will decide whether that’s a skill worth learning of not, and I’ll decide whether my Wii Classic will be the guinea pig or not.
Let me try to find it under “analog triggers” “Padhacking Wii classic” and “making Tatsunoko vs Capcom controller” within SRK search.
BRB
Edit: I’m back:
A couple interesting topics about this:
I tried posting search results, but you can’t copy the results link.
Edit 2:
MaybeStan has his heart set on learning this new skill just because it’s there to learn. But unless the extra labor and research time costs involved with new parts, and extra parts and labor costs less than $10, I should just spend the extra money on the Classic Pro, and be sure it can be done, and save on Analog Trigger Internet School.
What you’re looking for is this:
Thank you @FreedomGundam. I’ll see if Stan can do that based on the diagram. If he can, we’ll make a judgement call on whether skimping on the Wii controller or labor is better.
$10 extra on a parts could save more in labor.
You can look into 3rd party gamepads that did the shoulder buttons as buttons instead of analog triggers
If I’m going to have something padhacked, I’d rather have the real thing padhacked. Adding things that can go wrong multiplies your chances the same was multiplying numbers between 0 and 1 do: each additional factor can possibly ruin success further.
Ad Stan said he wasn’t THAT eager to learn analog triggers, because, thanks to multiconsole pads, the only literal market is the Wii Classic. And that can be avoided with a classic pro or third party with digital triggers.
I’ll splurge and get a Wii Classic Pro with Digital buttons. Spend 2x on parts, spend 0.2x on labor and learning.
Moment that 3rd party pads exist for the 360 that didn’t need trigger inversions done and we could just tap those signals directly, we jumped on them.
Those Mad Catz Street Fighter 4 Fightpads were terrible controllers, but we bought the shit out of them as they were a dream to padhack. No one even before those pad hacks wanted to touch a official xbox 360 game pad, they were a hot mess. As long as the option was their we went for 3rd party pads to pad hack.
What I meant was between the choice of a Wii Classic Pro (the all digital one) and a knockoff all digital one.
If Stan says it will cost more than $10 extra labor, and the official all digital version is only $10 more, it’s a no brainier.
Also thanks to multiconsole fight/digital specific boards, making digital buttons work with analog inputs is a skill lower in demand. With the Wii all digital alternative.
For the Atari 5200 analog joystick, (lower demand than the Wii) I told Stan to cannibalize what already exists: an NES style 15 pin PC controller, and use a Bohoki Adapter (uses 15 pin PC controls on a 5200) and, viola: instant Digital stick for 5200.
Just a little background to anyone not in the know: Note that the only reason that the Wii Classic Controller analog triggers need to be hacked isn’t because that they’re simply analog (like the Xbox 360 triggers, for example).
When hacking analog triggers like the Xbox 360’s, you basically make the digital button press equal to “all-or-nothing” on the analog trigger. Pretty straightforward hack that’s normally done with a couple of resistors.
On the flipside, the Wii Classic Controller triggers, like the GameCube controller triggers, have the extra digital button/click at the end of it. The additional circuit required to hack Wii CC triggers makes the digital button press equal to both the all-or-nothing trigger press, AND the digital button/click at the same time.
I know but didn’t specify, but originally the Classic Controller was supposed to be Game Cube game compatible on the Wii. Hence why they have Game Cube-like buttons. I knew that made it doubly tricky,
But between both the Wii Classic Pro controller, third party Wii Classics, and most other systems either being covered by multiconsole Fight PCBs, or any system not covered by them having all digital buttons, (but the joystick for 3 pre-Crash systems most SRKers don’t care about may be an issues) the digitization of the analog input is already obsolete.
But it isn’t.
Nindy been using B, A, Y, & X since the Snes days.
It’s nothing like the Game Cube controller.
You are also on the wrong forums if you want to talk about pre-1983 crash consoles.
I was only referring to the analog trigger portion of the controller.
The original Classic Controller was a hybrid controller having the face of an SNES, the shoulders of a Gane Cube, and the C stick instead of buttons of an N64. It was supposed to be a Swiss Army knife of everything Nintendo-made.
Since Nintendo no longer had the rights to Killer Instinct by severing it’s relationship with Rare, Nintendo had no interest in using the C buttons for a Capcom Fighter face.
The extra 2 shoulders was a way for Capcom fighters to be played.
Can you provide a source for this? Because I’m 99% sure you inferred that yourself.
The GameCube controller already had no C-buttons (replaced by the C-stick) and was released in 2001, which means development/design for the hardware would have started several years prior, at least.
Rare was purchased by Microsoft in September 2002.
Which means that Nintendo decided not to have 6-buttons on the face LONG before the fallout with Rare.
Also Nintendo never owned Any of the IP rare developed that isn’t already a Nintendo IP before hand (DK country for example). Nintendo never own Killer Instinct. They just ask Rare to develop an arcade game that also help promote the at the console that supposed to be the successor to the Snes.
About quote 1, they were trying to make a control that can play anything Nintendo made for the SNES, N64vand GameCube. That was their way of accommodating. That just caused less Classic control sales, so they took out the GaneCube ports to sell more Classics.
Nintendo was always designing their main control for their flagship game, such as Mario 64, Luigi’s Mansion, Wii Sports, and NintendoLand.
The Switch Joycon was the first controller to be a Swiss army knife of controllers. It can be 2 simple controls, or linked in a Grip as one control. It can be a traditional controller, as well as a WiiMote and nunchuk with more buttons and 2 thumbsticks it can be a home or car system.
This is the first generation where a controller was designed for not one single specific game, but to be Switched into many control styles. It’s the Swiss Army knife of controls.
Before Nintendo designed for themselves l, and “three a bone” for third parties as well as classics.
The main point can was they were trying to be versatile, but not compromise their vision. The Switch was the first time Nintendo though of all other things be damned, let’s sell systems. Our games would be great anyway.
No. You’re just making stuff up now based on your personal experiences and observations.
I’m done here.