Only thing about those DB25 cables you posted is this.
They are male to male.
Now, I reckon you could just use DB25 female jacks on bolth ends, Or spend $3-$4 on A gender changer.
But either way that is an incredible price.
I was hoping the “pinout” I just posted would be easy to read. :sad:
Tell me what is confuzing you and i’ll see if i can do one up better.
dummyface
Thanks man, I understand almost everything BUT could you do it in paint or something, easier to understand (I am new to all this).
Female connector on the stick, yes! Female on the project box, no? With the cable I linked to it is only male pinouts but yeah you could get a converter or whatevah but I think it is best to use female connectors on both stick and projectbox because we don`t need to worrie that something will get bent.
What is you oppinion?
Only problem I see is guys like ArcadeStickMonk who want to directly connect the project box to the stick.
I’ll see if I can get some paint action going.
I agree that it should be female on the stick and male on the project box. If people want to use a cord they can use an extension but some people will want a direct connection and that should be possible.
I’d like to designate a power-button pin as well. I’m not sure how many systems support it without modding but since we have the extra pins I don’t see why not?
Here’s a link to an xbox mod to allow this: http://www.xbox-scene.com/articles/power-button-controller.php
(this makes use of an extra, unused wire in xbox controller cables. Not sure if 360 will have the same deal)
I personally find it very handy as my xbox is tucked away.
The button layout I think should be left up to the stick builder. As long as the correct pins wire to the correct buttons (X, Y, L, R etc). Obviously most people will want a Capcom or SNK type layout but the standard should force it.
Even though I would essentially have to re-do every single serial port I’ve done so far, I could easily be swayed to do so to meet a 25-pin standard. I’m not as gun-ho about 15 as I was previously (for some reason) and the price and availabilityof 15 pin serials has been a concern of mine.
However, I will always be connecting my boxes directly to my stick. I’ve got a good system worked out, nothing hangs below the stick, I’m keeping it.
Also, I will always put the male serial in the stick, recessed to be flush, like so.
Good to see this movement come back. It’s awesome to see that SRK is finding a standard, even if I decide to not use it.
Like Real Neo Geo, I prefur A cable to connect my boxes to my stick.
But I know others will want to directly plug the box into the stick.
That is why I say we MUST have bolth male and female plugs.
I honestly don’t think whether the female is mounted on the stick or the box really matters, What I posted was simply the first one that came to mind.
If all elese fails you could buy A gender changer.
As far as rewiring existing encoder boxes, Couldn’t you simply make A DB15 to DB25 adaptor to keep them functional?
I know this would render the box ‘non stick mountable’ but it would keep you from rewiring it all together.
I agree that the final button layout should be up to the stick builder.
But, by having A standard layout and simply ommiting the buttons you don’t want any config is possible.
I.E.
SF
1 2 3 X
5 6 7 X
SNK
1 2 3 4
X X X X
GG
1 2 3 X
5 X 7 X
Universal Fighting game
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 X
I THINK I have listed the accepted button layout for most consoles.
Such as the PS, I copied the layout of the HRAP.
If some one sees an error and can show me A good picture I will change it.
I used separate grounds so in the future if some pads do not have a common ground (like the xbox360pad) this will be good (MODE-button is mounted on the projectbox).
What you guys think?
common standards are good, especially since for the most part it can be alot mroe structured on how business goes about here regarding sticks and project boxes etc.
I think personally if this were to become a standard, the main stick builders should come to an agreement as to the price of project boxes as seprate entities. This way jobs can be passed around if a particular person is bogged down or w/e and the buyer not having to worry about a difference in price.
layout should be left to the builder and the customer.
for instance, in GGXX#r2 (gotta love the name)
-the extra buttons (7/8) are used for selecting the different costumes or EX mode on both ps2 and xbox.
-then there’s doa4, you only need 4 buttons on that one, the shoulder buttons are nothing more than double buttons (P+F etc.) which i, and a bunch of people i know never use . 6 (the bumpers) if you’re really set on using taunts.
-then you have the 2 grounds issue. not every hacked pad has a dual ground. the pads i use (sf:ac) do.
-what about the ps1 pads though? most of those (and what the majority of people use) have a single ground. having a dsub wired up to use 2 grounds and then getting an adapter from somebody thats only wired up for 1 ground would really toss things around a bit. (sf:ac uses 1 gnd for bck/st and dpad, the other for buttons)
don’t get me wrong. i really LOVE the idea of a universal adapter of some sort, but given the combinations of pads grounds and layouts. i don’t know how well this can be pulled off. probably an order by order basis. i know there’s only a handful of us around here that sell boxes (im not a good enough stick builder yet).
but an adapter box would be any ones game to work on.
oh yeah, also i’d advice against crimp style anything. tried them on my first stick, took back a multitude of cables and resoldered everything multiple times, only to find out that the crimped in pins wherent making contact. the pins slid in all the way ( they made a click noise and wouldn’t come out when pulled) but still no constant contact. the solder ones worked perfectly.
maybe some people can get them to work properly but i never could. solder ones are just about 99% guaranteed to work if dont correctly.
I’ve been lurking on this thread for a while and decided to use this idea on my next stick. I have the PCB ready to go, I have a project box and the connecter. My problem is I don’t know how to make a neat hole in the project box for the connecter to go through.
Does anyone have any ideas on this? Can you post pictures of your project boxes so I can get a feel for it?
I don’t have a dremel, just a drill, I have a feeling I might have to get one though
I like albert_c’s pinout and I like the idea of db15 over db25.
If I ever adapt to a db connector method, the db15 on the joystick won’t be visable. It’ll be on the inside of the box. This way, all that shows is a db15 cable. Much like superguns.
I was thinkin about this. Since everyone’s caught inbetween db15 and db25 why not adopt a standard for each instead of deciding on one over the other? I like the idea of a standard but both hav pros and cons…
For instance, my upcoming tekken stick only needs 10 pins total; the buttons, directions, ground and start. It would be very wasteful not to mention dog ugly to see a gigantic db25 connector on the back of a stick that only uses 10 pins.
On the other hand, for someone who wants a fully featured stick with 8 buttons, start, and select would be fine with a db25 connector. Where these really shine is where some PCB’s are picky with ground (xbox reflex) and want one for each button.
So I suggest one standard for db15 and one for db25.
Where does everyone buy their gameport db-15 connectors from? I recently bought some 3 row db-15 connectors but the cables i’d be using would be really thick. The gameport db-15 cables are relatively thin, so i might reconsider. Radioshack is usually my source of these components but for something like gameport db-15’s I have to look elsewhere. Anyone gettem cheap online somewhere? Also, are there thinner db-15 cables then those thick ones used for computer monitors? I’m just happy there’s a brilliant way to make multi-system sticks without the dealings with resistors and zener diodes like how i was trying to put two pcbs in a switch system with fighting over voltages.
