It’s like product design (and a bunch of other stuff as well). Pretty much anything you buy or use, someone has to design (but not everything is designed by an industrial designer). Really hard to explain since it involves many different fields, but this movie may help to those that’s interested: [media=youtube]a168fVO10Vo[/media]
Thanks for the honest feedbacks as well. It’s impossible to make anything that is everyone’s cup of tea and expect that it won’t be everyone’s style. Some may think Lamborghinis are sexy, and some thinks they’re fugly (not that I’m comparing my little stick to that make).
This one is prototype #2, still a prototype so didn’t spend too much time building it (don’t mind the gaps, etc). Acrylic top with wooden box. From here I can do real tests to see what needs changing. So far I really like the angled top (10 degrees), it is far more comfortable from a flat surface so far from my testings (on table and on lap). The stick is located a tad further away apart from the buttons so your arms aren’t as scrunched/angled as usual. It’s slightly smaller than the MadCatz sticks.
I will eventually do a proper build. If anybody is in the Vancouver, BC area and would like to test drive it for feedback, let me know. It would be good to get more people’s feedback.
I notices you are using Happ parts. Hope this is just for the prototype as those parts really is not suitable for personal use. They are fine for arcade game where people fool around, not fine for something that requires delicates control.
If it can fit Happ hardware, Japanese hardware can fit as well. If designed for Sanwa only, Happ hardware may not be able to fit. Choice of hardware is personal opinion, some people prefer Happ.
Happ/Sanwa/Seimitsu is all preference. I would suggest that you make your cases as a japanese-style case primarily, most people prefer to build their sticks with Japanese parts instead of American parts. If you’re able to fit Happ parts into the case, you have more than enough clearance for Sanwa/Seimitsu parts. You will have to drill different-sized holes for each, but being able to offer both cases that fit American and Japanese-style parts is a plus. Just expect to sell way more Japanese cases.
Ya, that’s the idea; it’s easy to drill different size holes but harder to accommodate for all hardware. I may make a thinner case for Japanese only hardware and see how that looks. Also as easy to move start/select/misc buttons to the top (above joystick) or sides to suit personal preferences. For now I’m treating this as my personal box (only 1 final one to be built) but with potential consideration to others in case I do decide to make limited run sometime in the future.
For the slope, I know not everyone will like it by just seeing it. But I’ve ran ergonomic tests doing multiple angles from 0, 5, 8, 10, 15 degrees. We’ve always seen flat boxes or slight 2 degree boxes for years and years, so it’s hard to break through the norm only because it’s always been. But look at angles on keyboards, even newer laptops has built in 8 degree slants for a reason (they’re used on desktops and on your lap as well). I may decrease the angle next time to 8 degrees for visual so it won’t look as harsh. If I do a slimmer box the angle will decrease as well accordingly. I’m not an ergonomic expert but I have taken some classes on it and practiced many principles of it in many projects.
A quick basic principle of the slope: (box on a table) the flatter the surface the higher up your elbow has to reach the surface or have an increased bend on your wrists. The lower it is (to an extent) the more nature your elbow height will be and more straight your wrist angle will be. (Box on your lap) when sitting on a chair, your lap actually slopes downwards slightly; so with an upwards slope on the box will compensate the angle = more natural positioning of your elbow and wrists. The only time I found it to be too much of a slope is if the box is on the ground directly, but at this point it’s too low to be comfortable to begin with any ways in any angle (and then just place it on my lap).
The most popular stock stick ever produced (TE) is flat. I have never heard anyone say anything along the lines of “I just wish this thing was slanted.” The vast vast vast majority of custom sticks are also flat. I believe that if there was a large amount of people that desired slanted sticks then there would be more slanted customs. I’ve probably seen a total of 5-10 slanted customs compared to the hundreds of flat.
With slanted keyboards I can walk into BestBuy/Walmart/Whatever and try them out. I can see if I enjoy it before I buy it (I don’t, by the way). With a custom stick I have to take your word that it is more comfortable. I would bet that the majority of people looking for a new stick would rather go with something they’re used to (flat) over something unusual (slanted). You may find a niche and your sticks, assuming they’re left as they are now, could be popular. I just don’t see an incline as a sought-after feature of a stick and not being able to try it before you buy it would kill any chance of me getting one, as it may for others.
The slant is debatable, but it will probably hedge out in your favor, I think. As stated back, the custom market is pretty saturated, you gotta have something special to offer. 8 degrees would definitely make it easier on the eyes. I kinda also like the slant on the SE. It’s a bit different, but I like to rest my wrists on the slant. I tend to lean back when I play, too, so it kind of creates a slant. So, it’s something new that people may want to try. And if the price was right, there’d be some willing to take the plunge. After all, pretty much all of the components besides the case are recyclable. Also, if you’re going to offer custom placement, definitely be able to fit a 24mm hole for Neutrik NAUSB/RJ45 support. Maybe if you could cut out spaces for female ends of DB-15 or DB-25 connectors for those who like project box stick or have UPCB, they’ll be able to get it. The 24mm hole is essential. DB-15 or DB-25 aren’t, but offering them as an option never hurts.
Flat vs slant: there are a lot of things that are hard to change because it has always been, not because it’s more or less better (also most likely ergonomics was never looked at as it rarely is for any products especially back in the days). Keyboard “qwerty” layout for example was created to slow down typing so the typewriter arm wouldn’t collide with itself. Just because it’s the most popular or the only way its been made does not mean it’s the best. Look at toothbrushes, before design studies they all had thin straight handles because that’s just how they’ve always been. The argument can be a thesis paper so don’t want to get into it too much.
I’m not trying to make the most comfortable box ever, just want something a little different than a box. And no, it won’t be for everyone. I considered an adjustable angle top, but honestly I’ve been very happy with this angle. Also the plastic is an off-cut piece from a sign company which would have ended in a landfill otherwise. Next prototype will try a bent-wood top.
I’ve been toying with the idea of making the joystick center of rotation to be fine-tuned. This is so you can adjust the “true up” +/- 5 degrees or so. Say your natural “down” is actually slightly more than 180 degrees, so you can hit moves more accurately. This is because we play with our arms on an angle because of the layout so “down” is technically not parallel with our arms so not technically natural, but the adjustment may help compensate to make it more accurate. Not sure if it’s necessary?? Opinions??
I appreciate all feedbacks though, all have been helpful.
