Ahh well my friend is also a Tekken player and I’m planning on getting him a Crown stick and eventually I might plan on getting one myself. So do Crown sticks last long?

I have a mayflash stick that i dual modded with ps360+. I have that crown 303 installed. First i modded the acuator than i opened up my switches and applied two strips of black tape to the bottom of the red button. With all that done the stick was too sensitive, so i put the actuator Back to normal. I love it but diagonals have a longer throw. I also dual my brothers ssf4te stick with a seimitsu ls-32 with bat top and thats my next joystick along with a full custom case.

This has come up before. They’re good sticks, but diagonals are harder to hit because the grommet starts getting tight as it stretches to the corners. The more range it has to move, the more resistance you get. At neutral, the resistance from the grommet isn’t so bad, but the further you move from neutral the more resistance the grommet applies to the stick. Since diagonals are going to be the most range of movement, you will get the most resistance there which is one reason it’s much harder to hit the diagonals. The other reason is also because of how large the range for the diagonals is. K sticks don’t have gates restricting the range of the lever’s movement, plus the spring in a J stick is more consistent for tension per travel distance, all this stuff changes the function and feel of the stick and the range of movement and tension.

I did try a Myoungshin lever and it was a nicer feeling stick. Over all it was more consistent as you move the lever and the grommet had a nicer feel to it. Definitely a higher quality stick, but they do not offer one that will fit a mounting plate or mass produced sticks.

All right, I probably will buy another Crown in the future. Oh another question guys, I bought a Crown for my friend and the stick is wobbly. Is that normal for Crowns or there might be something wrong?

All sticks are have wiggle room or wobble I suppose when neutral, if that is what you mean.

That’s not entirely true, but is most often the case.

Plenty of Seimitsu products are tight when in neutral, then there’s Suzo and things like the Virtstik (sic?).

On topic, I recently grabbed one of the new Korean sticks with the JP style mounting plate and it just feels terrible, super loose and the spring in there is laughably soft.

Dude I own 3 different kinds of Seimtitsu joysticks, they all have wiggle room.
Its significantly less than the JLF but its still there.

Virtstick is the last stick to evade my grasp!!! he said he doesn’t make them anymore =(

What? The spring is negligible in K sticks, you can even remove the spring if you want. The purpose of the spring isn’t to return the stick to neutral, that is what the grommet is for. The purpose is mainly to keep tension under (or above? I forgot) the grommet so that it stays in place as you play. The grommet does like 90% of all the work in snapping that shit back to neutral, dude.

K sticks ARE NOT J sticks, so of course it is going to feel very different. The looseness doesn’t matter, what matters is that when it snaps back to zero, it does so with little to no deflection which a K stick does, and it does it fast, probably faster than J sticks, and that’s one of the reasons they’re prized by Tekken players. Fast snap back to neutral and accurate cardinal directions.

The newer Crowns are fine, comparable to Fantas.

If you were just going to make a custom case that mounts a Korean stick standard, I’d just get a Myoungshin though.

If we’re talking about installing it into a Japanese-style case, then yeah, the Japanese mountable Crowns are the best way, and pretty solid.

If you’re having issues with diagonals just swap the switches. You would be surprised how strongly these affect the engage speed and diagonals range. I find Gersungs slow (smaller diagonals and later engage) and Matsushitas fast (earlier engage and wider diagonals).
Gersungs are available with the korean version and Matsushitas with the japanese if I remember correctly.

Fair enough. At any rate, I didnt enjoy playing on it. Felt too soft. I can see that there is very little deflection when returning to neutral, but in the stick I have at least, the return to neutral isn’t quick in comparison to what I like.

Thanks for the info on the function of the spring, that was new to me.

That’s a pretty interesting experience you have. The Crown I have is pretty snappy, it isn’t anything like a JLF which is the loosest stick I’ve used. The manufacturing on the Crown leaves a lot to be desired though, there are numerous cosmetic flaws on the shaft, and the plate’s shaft hole isn’t wide as it should be.

I’ll never buy another crown. The rubber grommets are cheap as hell. Within 3 weeks of (light) use mine wore to the point the shaft literally scrapes along the mounting plate opening so badly it makes doing a simple fireball motion unbearable. I ended up having to put my jlf back in the stick otherwise spend half the cost of the actual stick on a replacement “harder” grommet.
It also had massive “wobble” right out of the box.

Disappointing to hear that but the quality issues and remarks on performance are why I have NOT bought a Crown, period… I was excited to hear about another alternative to the JLF that could perform better for me but I am not so crazy about this joystick after hearing about the quality issues.

Sourcing out replacement parts is another deal killer, too. Even though the JLF still is easier to replace the microswitches on, it shouldn’t be much tougher to source out or negotiate purchases for replacement PCB’s/substrates for any of those LS-series joysticks, too. I can’t help but think it wouldn’t be quite as simple for the Crown -303FK yet. The plastic grommet issues seem to pop up too often.

I am more likely at this point to try the Hayabusa joystick after first round tests by non-FE owners or guys who at least own a variety of joysticks besides the JLF.

It’s been remarkably quiet as far as the FE goes. I don’t think a lot of SRK guys actually bought the thing and did any kind of extreme testing/comparisons. I hear more about the Kuro buttons actually (many people don’t seem to care for them) but the Hayabusa is as big a question mark STILL as the Hori/MC-compatible Crown joysticks were when they were announced over a year ago now…

The Hayabusa descriptions I’ve read still come off as very vague.

Sounds like the mounting plate hole was mis-manufactured like mine. You could widen it with a Dremel or a steel file. As for the grommet, you probably ended up finally breaking it in. Wobble is going to be more noticeable on them because they do not have a spring holding them neutral. So if I was to shake a table with a J stick and a K stick on it, the K stick is going to wobble and the J stick won’t. It’s just how a K stick is, that’s how they’re designed. Tension is in a different part of the stick doing different things. It’s different.

K sticks are not J sticks. No one should expect them to feel even remotely similar.

My current stick is a crown 303fk…just modded the rubber grommet, a while back i modded the switches. Now it feels how it should have out the box. I’m happy with mine. If you need help modding the grommet let mt know. It’s fairly easy…

How did u mod the grommet…if ya don’t mind me asking…I was going to order the replacement harder tension one from wazwuz…but if I can try this mid first I will definitely give it a try…

All it is was a piece of soft pliable foam with a sitcky adhesive backing. I use at my job all the time. I was trying to figure out a way to mod the grommet also, saw the foam and the light buld turned on. I would post a pic of the material but i don’t know how…