Closer japanese stick setup resembling happ/IL stick?

[K4ever]

I have always preferred playing in american sticks because of how stiff they are, and also coz Im used to do my motions and shortcuts on them. I bought a madcatz TE stick not so long ago, and I have to sell it cheaper on craigslist because I just couldnt adapt to the looseness of them. I just kept jumping forward or backward when I tapped a direction or when I did a dp motion. So I switched back to IL sticks but changed the buttons to sanwa, and all have been fine until the last couple of days.
I play only ssf4 on my ps3, and whenever Im required to do inputs and motions fast, thats when I start to get frustrated. I cant let the stick go to neutral position by itself because the actuator will bounce like crazy and 50% of the time I will either get a dash forward/backward, or a random jump. I used to think my problem was my execution, but now I tested it on training mode, and I came to the conclusion that thats the HORRIBLE part of playing in american sticks ( dunno about perfect 360s ). Now the only thing I can do about it, its to manually return the stick to neutral ( not just letting the stick go ), but that reduces my ability to react faster to fast jumpings and also doing quick dps. So now I just wanna know what kind of stick is best for me that feels pretty close to a happ/il stick. Or what can I do about this problem ( changing something inside the actuator, dunno ).
Do I need a sanwa bit a bat top and a stiffer spring?
What about hori or seimitsu?
I dont use charge characters at all, and I use diagonals a lot … another problem with IL/happ sticks that dont register the latter inputs well, and one that has costed A LOT of losses.
Thx.

[rtdzign]

Get a:

Sanwa JLW-UM-8
JLW GT-0 (round gate)a replacement TE joystick harness (to revert back to stock)
3 feet of black wire
15 .187 quick disconnects

And go get a radio shack terminal crimper.

You will need to hack your original TE Harness. I made an adaptor harness, but you should just cut up and crimp the harness on your TE to install a JLW. It should sort of look like the top half this thing.

Hopefully if you browse this thread you will be able to figure it out.
http://shoryuken.com/f177/jlw-um-8-inside-te-s-suggestions-please-harness-249262/

[kikimaru024]

Replace your iL stick with a Myoungshin Fanta (activation force: 0.22kg) or Taeyoung Fanta (activation force: 0.5kg).

eTokki.com

You will need a 35mm drill bit, or a dremel tool to install.
An electric drill for holes wouldn’t hurt either.

ALTERNATIVELY:
Get a Euro-Stik (aka Suzo 500).
Ultimarc > Joysticks & Buttons

[rtdzign]

I would think that a JLW is more closer to a Fanta, and much easier to install into a TE. A step bit to get the hole in a TE widened for a fanta is very expensive, and also getting new mounting holes drilled might be problematic. Also I’m not sure he would dig the feel of a rubber grommet as opposed to a spring for recentering.

The JLW is very Happ like, but doesn’t have the deflection problems that an iL/Happs have.

[True_Grave]

Eh just put a bat top, octogate, and a tougher spring on a JLF for the american stick experience. Good enough i say.

Spring mod:
[media=youtube]L67fUfH3S5o[/media]

[kubebot]

My suggestions:ls-56 or 55

You could also try the JILF mod:
http://shoryuken.com/f177/project-gt-c-lets-talk-about-circular-jlf-restrictors-245866/index8.html#post10096587

[d3v]

I would think that a JLW is more closer to a Fanta, and much easier to install into a TE. A step bit to get the hole in a TE widened for a fanta is very expensive, and also getting new mounting holes drilled might be problematic. Also I’m not sure he would dig the feel of a rubber grommet as opposed to a spring for recentering.

The JLW is very Happ like, but doesn’t have the deflection problems that an iL/Happs have.

Also, the rubber grommet used in lieu of a spring in the Fanta sticks feel different from a sprint and would take some getting used to.

[Darksakul]

Rubber grommets were used in the old Suzo Inductive and Wico sticks, but for the feel the current Happ/IL stick the my Japanese part option is the JWL. I understood Fanta isn’t bad, but I never used a Korean made stick yet my self.

[madveks]

[quote=“True_Grave, post:5, topic:123863”]

Eh just put a bat top, octogate, and a tougher spring on a JLF for the american stick experience. Good enough i say.

I agree with what True Grave said. I had the same issue and got a bat top, Round gate and bought a LS56 spring to combine with my JLF spring. It was binding up so i went the Home depot spring route and that was TOO stiff. It kept not registering corners periodically. I cut the spring a bit and now it is sublime. Unfortunately the circle gate cracked so now I’m back to square. a Caveat though. circle does lengthen your throw marginally. but what can i say I’m a scrubby gate rider FTW.

[Foegrinder]

[quote=“madveks”]

Eh just put a bat top, octogate, and a tougher spring on a JLF for the american stick experience. Good enough i say.

I agree with what True Grave said. I had the same issue and got a bat top, Round gate and bought a LS56 spring to combine with my JLF spring. It was binding up so i went the Home depot spring route and that was TOO stiff. It kept not registering corners periodically. I cut the spring a bit and now it is sublime. Unfortunately the circle gate cracked so now I’m back to square. a Caveat though. circle does lengthen your throw marginally. but what can i say I’m a scrubby gate rider FTW.

just get the ls-33 spring and put it in with the stock jlf spring- you wont need to do any cutting or anything like that; it is smooth as butter

[kubebot]

just get the ls-33 spring and put it in with the stock jlf spring- you wont need to do any cutting or anything like that; it is smooth as butter

Single ls-55 spring is pretty awesome.

[Bapex215]

I use two home depot springs plus JLF spring in the ultimate JLF mod on two of my sticks one with octagonal gate other square. For the other stick I use a LS-56 with two LS-56 springs and octagonal gate.

[Foegrinder]

Single ls-55 spring is pretty awesome.

I will have to try this; I already ordered one- thanks for the suggestion

[True_Grave]

I agree with what True Grave said. I had the same issue and got a bat top, Round gate and bought a LS56 spring to combine with my JLF spring. It was binding up so i went the Home depot spring route and that was TOO stiff. It kept not registering corners periodically. I cut the spring a bit and now it is sublime. Unfortunately the circle gate cracked so now I’m back to square. a Caveat though. circle does lengthen your throw marginally. but what can i say I’m a scrubby gate rider FTW.

How the hell did you manage to crack your gate? Do you ride it THAT hard, or was it a poor quality custom or something? I don’t think sanwa or semitsu make round gates.

Anyhow, just grab a quality Sanwa Octogate from lizardlick and you should be good to go.

[jdm714]

There is actually a manufacturing thing in GT-C of Toodles that relates to cracking.

Project GT-C. Let's talk about circular JLF restrictors

Well, I still haven’t been able to break a GT-C in play, even after bashing the stick around dangerously hard. If did finally manage to get one to break break, but I had to put it on concrete tab-side down and step on it. I noticed something weird though in the break; the crack was in the exact same spot as the picture pzlate posted up. From shadowsteve’s post, I believe his cracked in the same spot as well. That finally led me to figure out what I think the problem is.

The crack on mine starts exactly on the spot where it was connected to the sprue in the mold. There’s a little rough section right at that spot that isn’t present anywhere else on the part; that’s where it was connected to the sprue and broken off. From constant pressure right on that spot, the crack propagates. Where’s that pressure coming from? The little plastic springs on the clear restrictor plate. The tabs are 90 degrees from that spot, and are the only parts resisting the downward push from the springs. So for most* installations, this pressure is right over the rough spot.

So how to keep this from happening? Rotate the GT-C further. If the GT-C is put in one ‘click’, the springs will be pressing down right next to the rough area. If you turn it further to the second ‘click’ spot, the pressure will be off of the rough spot by 45 degrees and should keep the rough section from trying to crack. It wouldn’t hurt to lightly sand this rough spot down if you have a chance, but its by no means required.

Three things I will be doing to fix this:

1. I will film a new installation video and get it posted up asap that shows the GT-C being installed to the second click.
2. I will be sanding that edge smooth. Anyone who has taken a materials science class should know how important a polished surface is for prevent crack propagation from stress/strain/creep. I’ll get a batch together to send to LizardLick asap. I’ll post up here when I know for sure that their outgoing stock has been polished.
3. I’ll replace broken ones. Those of you who have had theirs crack, please send me a PM so we can arrange for a replacement. I will ask that you take a photo of your cracked one though just to prevent scammers.

I am deeply embarassed about this. I hope those of you disappointed will see that I want to make it right.

[madveks]

exactly what jdm posted. I didn’t go at it that hard and I am not in the habit of smashing sticks. i believe it was as toodles posted. a structural compromise in a key area and I did not have it in the second click spot. as it is i can still use it since it is still in one piece. I am not salty about it at all due to the fact that toodles does so much for the community (still waiting on word about that flash replacement). And I WILL be picking up another when finances pick up.

[rygod]

Rubber grommets were used in the old Suzo Inductive and Wico sticks, but for the feel the current Happ/IL stick the my Japanese part option is the JWL. I understood Fanta isn’t bad, but I never used a Korean made stick yet my self.

oh when we were young… how is your Korean experience now?

[Darksakul]

Rubber grommets were used in the old Suzo Inductive and Wico sticks, but for the feel the current Happ/IL stick the my Japanese part option is the JWL. I understood Fanta isn’t bad, but I never used a Korean made stick yet my self.

oh when we were young… how is your Korean experience now?

Dude, WTF? are you following my old posts? Why are you even bumping this post?