Clicky buttons

I know. I’m just pushing your 8-button.

I think dickriding must be something the kids say today. I’ve not heard it said outside the forum. And I hang out with a bunch of goofy ass guys at work.

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d3v doesn’t dickride.

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Ok, I’ll look into OBS-30As and Happ Competitions.

I don’t necessarily want the button to have more resistance, per se; I just want it to have a clear breaking point so that I know exactly when it is actuated. It’s not that these Sanwa buttons offer too little resistance; it’s that the resistance is all spread out throughout the full button press so there’s no clear actuation point. It feels kind of like pushing buttons on a touchscreen sometimes - yeah, it takes the least effort I guess, and with practice you can get good with touchscreen buttons, sure, but it will never feel as good. As well, considering how much quicker and more accurately I can type on my Model M compared to how slimy, slow and imprecise a regular rubber dome keyboard feels, I find it difficult to believe that the mushy Sanwa buttons will actually make things easier for me.

I think that’s all preference, I love my seimitsu screw ins, It seems i screw up inputs on sanwa buttons when I’m piano-tapping which is essential if you play fei in ST in my opinion I guess it’s not essential but it helps with the c.w st.f xrekka’s to me it feels it comes out way faster.

Point taken, but I still think there’s a point where too much resistance starts to be bad for your game.

But I’m not saying I want more resistance, I just want the point of actuation to be very very clear. For all you gun nuts out there, what I’m looking for is somewhat akin to the short, crisp, but still very light trigger pull characteristic of 1911 pistols. The Sanwa buttons, though easy to actuate, don’t offer that crisp response; it’s kind of mushy and doesn’t feel that great. Little resistance and clickiness aren’t mutually exclusive.

I meant to say SEIMITSU, Screw ins there. Ive had a long night myself. Laugh
But I get what you mean but are there really buttons out there anymore with to much resistance?

Unless its some crappy knockoff. Cough Madcatz SE, Cough HORI EX2
Love me some markman, But i hate me some SE.

Happ buttons do fit in the TE with much needed modding.

There are a few ways to do it, I have seen people slowly drilling the black plastic at the bottom
then doubling up the plexi to raise the height and using different screws from home depot.
You could also buy that one guys metal panel it apparently mounts happ

The Qanba might be tall enough to fit iL competitions. They’re very good buttons, no matter what a bunch of the Sanwa bandwagon button riders tell ya. The resistance issue can easily be fixed. You can take the springs out of the buttons and rely strictly on the micro-switch resistance, or you can get micro-switches with less resistance from Paradise Arcade and swap them out in place of the Cherry switches. Cherry switches are very high quality though, and once you take out the spring from the iL buttons, they’re pretty easy to actuate. The benefit of them is you know exactly when they’re being pressed, and when they aren’t.

That is exactly what the mod that I was alluding to above effectively does, except in Sanwa buttons (with Cherry switches). The nice thing is that they actuate in the center, and fit in a lot of cases designed for Japanese parts.

Yes I saw that, awesome log. However, that process will cost about 4x as much as just buying some good ol’ competitions. On top of that, the smaller button face is more comfortable to me vs the larger 30 mm size. Just my preferences though.

Yeah, definitely not cheap at this point.

But it was modded.

Because Tech Talk.

Just get use to the Sanwas, as they’re the best. The click noise is important when it comes to certain moves such as Kara throws, and even super cancels. That click noise on each button press gives you a guide for your timing. And the sensitivity of the buttons is a good thing also once you get use to it.

Preference dude, preference. I personally hate the feel of Sanwa buttons, and I think they’re terrible. iL may not have THE BEST design in buttons, but they’re the best cost effective solution at the moment. If iL only made the shaft shorter and centered on the micro-switch, then I think they’d really have the best design. Even with the cherry style micro-switch Sanwa, there would be the issue of massive button surface area that requires your fingers be stretched apart. I’m sure some people say that’s good because you won’t accidentally press the wrong button with the wrong finger, but things would be so much more comfortable if control panels used 24 mm or even something along the lines of 20 mm.

You don’t want Happ, you want Industrias Lorenzo (aka IL) convex pushbuttons. Happ now sells Happ branded Chinese knockoffs of the IL parts they used to sell.

You can get the buttons from http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en/61-il-compeition-buttons

Thanks for the link. I have nothing against Happ but if you are going to go with a Chinese made button without a Cherry… There are much cheaper ways to go. If you are going to do it right, I think IL is the solution… I am a little bit biased though :slight_smile:

Hopefully not for much longer!

I know you can fit UltraLux buttons in a TE with small modifications. So they may fit in the Qanba.

They use e-switches though so you’ll have to swap them out.

Yeah, it would save everyone money and the huge hassle of having to mod their buttons to get low profile Cherry based buttons. I tried to make my iL Competitions low profile, but ended up slicing the skin off my left index knuckle which left a minor scar and I can still clearly remember the pain associated with it. After all that work of cutting them down and nearly slicing my finger off, I found I could not get the shortened piece to adhere to one another through any means because they were made of nylon. Nylon simply can’t be glued together, nor can it be softened with a solvent like acetone and ABS, nor can it be heated together by melting the two ends with a razor knife soldering iron attachment.

At the moment, the only real option is going the OBS method and spending a lot of money, or building a custom case and spending a lot of money, lol! Hopefully, we get news on some new HAPP buttons one day.