Since you already have a stick, there’s really not much you can do with the buttons without sacrificing quality. This is because the buttons holes are already 30mm so you can only use 30mm buttons without extensive modding.
I’d say your only two options are to learn to love the Sanwas or try out Seimitsu buttons. The Seimitsus have a bit more “feel” but it’s really about the same as Sanwas. If you ever play anywhere other than on your own stick, you most likely will have to use Sanwa parts since those are the standard. Based on that, I’d just try to get used to playing on the Sanwas for convenience.
I also love model Ms, and I think you might want to look into Happ competition pushbuttons. When I built my controller, I used them for the directions. They have cherry microswitches, and work very well. I suppose it’s not really much help if you’ve already purchased a controller, but something to keep in mind if you ever decide to build one.
d3v
14
Happ buttons wont fit in the TE. As stated earlier, the best option in this case would be Sanwa OBS-30s.
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/images/OBS-30A.jpg
I actually use an IBM Model M, so I know that distinct click that you’re looking for. You’re not going to get it out of those puny microswitches used in standard Seimitsu or Sanwa buttons, or even the larger ones used in their -RG buttons. You need one of these:
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/59-302-large/50-gram-micro.jpg
What you’ll want are Happ Competitions or Sanwa OBS-30As. However, the problem with these buttons is that they are very long - and because everyone is too busy preferring standard Sanwa buttons, very few cases produced today are actually tall enough to accommodate them. I do not know if the Qanba is tall enough, and that is something you’ll likely need to find out on your own.
d3v
16
Is this in any way called for? Because I hope you’re not trying to start anything I’m going to have to shut down.
Totally called for. He means everyone’s playing Sanwa’s 8 buttons.
d3v
18
But the term used was offensive. The last thing I want is a flamewar starting over it.
Is there a better word to use to describe the way Japanese style buttons have taken over the market and American style buttons have become relegated to existing only to invoke feelings of nostalgia?
d3v
20
I would have preferred a more neutral term, like “prefer.”
I know. I’m just pushing your 8-button.
Kyle
22
I think dickriding must be something the kids say today. I’ve not heard it said outside the forum. And I hang out with a bunch of goofy ass guys at work.
Ok, I’ll look into OBS-30As and Happ Competitions.
I don’t necessarily want the button to have more resistance, per se; I just want it to have a clear breaking point so that I know exactly when it is actuated. It’s not that these Sanwa buttons offer too little resistance; it’s that the resistance is all spread out throughout the full button press so there’s no clear actuation point. It feels kind of like pushing buttons on a touchscreen sometimes - yeah, it takes the least effort I guess, and with practice you can get good with touchscreen buttons, sure, but it will never feel as good. As well, considering how much quicker and more accurately I can type on my Model M compared to how slimy, slow and imprecise a regular rubber dome keyboard feels, I find it difficult to believe that the mushy Sanwa buttons will actually make things easier for me.
I think that’s all preference, I love my seimitsu screw ins, It seems i screw up inputs on sanwa buttons when I’m piano-tapping which is essential if you play fei in ST in my opinion I guess it’s not essential but it helps with the c.w st.f xrekka’s to me it feels it comes out way faster.
d3v
26
Point taken, but I still think there’s a point where too much resistance starts to be bad for your game.
But I’m not saying I want more resistance, I just want the point of actuation to be very very clear. For all you gun nuts out there, what I’m looking for is somewhat akin to the short, crisp, but still very light trigger pull characteristic of 1911 pistols. The Sanwa buttons, though easy to actuate, don’t offer that crisp response; it’s kind of mushy and doesn’t feel that great. Little resistance and clickiness aren’t mutually exclusive.
I meant to say SEIMITSU, Screw ins there. Ive had a long night myself. Laugh
But I get what you mean but are there really buttons out there anymore with to much resistance?
Unless its some crappy knockoff. Cough Madcatz SE, Cough HORI EX2
Love me some markman, But i hate me some SE.
Happ buttons do fit in the TE with much needed modding.
There are a few ways to do it, I have seen people slowly drilling the black plastic at the bottom
then doubling up the plexi to raise the height and using different screws from home depot.
You could also buy that one guys metal panel it apparently mounts happ
The Qanba might be tall enough to fit iL competitions. They’re very good buttons, no matter what a bunch of the Sanwa bandwagon button riders tell ya. The resistance issue can easily be fixed. You can take the springs out of the buttons and rely strictly on the micro-switch resistance, or you can get micro-switches with less resistance from Paradise Arcade and swap them out in place of the Cherry switches. Cherry switches are very high quality though, and once you take out the spring from the iL buttons, they’re pretty easy to actuate. The benefit of them is you know exactly when they’re being pressed, and when they aren’t.
That is exactly what the mod that I was alluding to above effectively does, except in Sanwa buttons (with Cherry switches). The nice thing is that they actuate in the center, and fit in a lot of cases designed for Japanese parts.
Yes I saw that, awesome log. However, that process will cost about 4x as much as just buying some good ol’ competitions. On top of that, the smaller button face is more comfortable to me vs the larger 30 mm size. Just my preferences though.
