Cherry vs. Sanwa Microswitches on a JLF?

I’m currently building a custom stick, and I may have to use a non common ground PCB with my setup. If that’s the case, I’m going to replace the microswitches on the Sanwa JLF with new ones that can accept quick disconnects. My question is if I can replace them Cherry microswitches, or do I have to use Sanwa microswitches? Is there any difference in feel or sound between the two? Will the cherry’s fit on the Sanwa stick?

I’d love to go with the Sanwas, but it’s a little pricey just to order the microswitches when I can get Cherry’s cheaper here in North America. Right now all I can find is Akihabarashop selling the Sanwas, it comes to about $40 for four of them with EMS shipping to Canada. If anyone knows where to get the Sanwas cheaper here in north america, that would be great too.

With EMS it should come out about 30 us$. With Airmail it is about 17 dollar.
Also, Cherry microswitches works great.

IIRC, most Sanwa sticks use Omron microswitches, which are much harder than Cherry’s. You can make the JLF into a non-common ground board, but it’ll take some work. Search the forums. It has been done before. I think Hori EX2’s needed this, so check that thread.

Yep, but our dollar has tanked against the US dollar lately, so it bumps it up almost another $15 for Canadians.

What do you mean when you say “harder”? That they last longer, or that they are somehow physically harder?

And I saw the guides about making the JLF non-common ground, but I’m not doing the soldering myself on the PCB, so it’s just easier to rip out the whole JLF PCB and replace it with standard microswitches that take QD’s.

OMG, I have not watched the canadian dollar for a while now…that sucks.
Go with cherry, works great AND FEELS SMOOTH when moving the stick.

That is even better. Just cut the trace on the pcb and solder to the microswitches and it will be all right.

They take more force to engage/click/register/whatever. Oh well, it was just a suggestion that would let you keep the authentic Sanwa feel =)

Good info guys!

I’ll see what the guy says who’s doing my gamepad PCB soldering as to whether it will be common ground or not. He had a common ground pad, but he said he messed up something during the soldering process, and now the PCB is dead. He’s got another pad on hand, but he won’t know what the ground is doing until he cracks it open.

Another question then. How do the microswitches attach to the JLF stick? I haven’t seen any exploded views of the stick myself. Are there little nubs or something that fit into the holes on the outer edges of the microswitch? Just want to make sure if I go with Cherry’s they’re a drop in solution and don’t need any modding.

I don’t know exactly how it works, but there is a nice picture of a JLF modded with Cherry microswitches on slagcoin’s site.


Awesome! Slagcoin comes through again.

Okay, probably last question here. I see the stock switches the JLF comes with don’t have a levered actuator on it. If I go with Cherry’s, do I HAVE to use non-levered Cherry’s to ensure it works, or would levered ones work and actually be more desirable?

sorry but this mod is stupid
cherry + JLF = work like condom, joystick loses all dynamics
works only if you use harder spring
soft stick need harder microswitch O.F (operating force) over 100g, best 200g cherry is only 75g

buy Omron V series or Honeywell (this American firm)

If your using non common ground save yourself the money. Just cut the traces on the pcb board and solder the wires to the tabs on the microswitches of the JLF. That will cost you zero dollars and will feel like a sanwa. If you really want to just put on quick disconnects, order this stick from lizard lick.

I would cost me money because I have no soldering equipment or experience.

It’s okay though, as the guy doing the PCB managed to come up with another common ground pad, so it’s all good.


How does having the softer cherry microswitches negatively impact the stick? Is it THAT important to have the harder microswitches in the JLF? Also, where can I order the Omron V Series microswitches if necessary?

Maybe it’s growing up with them… but i still really dig Cherry microswitches. That’s how I wind up with the unholy concoction of sanwa buttons with cherry microswitches… the horror.

Its really a matter of opinion.

I think what Kowal is saying is that the Happ competition uses a hard spring and soft switches, while the JLF uses a soft spring and hard switches.

A JLF with Cherries has a soft spring and soft switches, which gives it not enough resistance - which means its marginally more difficult to do things that require quick returns to neutral, including dashing

OK gotcha, thanks for the info! So does anyone know where I can buy the Omron V-16-1C5 microswitches in the USA? (these ones are like the cherry switches in that they have quick disconnects on them). Thanks again for any help given.

I’ve got some Cherry switches sitting around and have been really tempted to put them into my Madcatz SE. I’ve been tweaking and testing and trying a lot of different combinations of components including the “JLF Ultimate Mod” but having grown up an Arcade Rat in America I’m having a lot of challenge/fun trying to get my own sweet spot that feels right to me.

Since Happ parts can’t fit I’ve found Siemitsu buttons to be a suitable replacement, but when it comes to the stick I’m just not finding my comfort zone. I’d like to do something like the JLF with LS-32 Spring and Cherry switches show previously this thread as I’ve already played with an LS-32 spring and found a comfortable tension there, but feel the switch engage is too clumsy and cumbersome even with the electric tape on the JLF activator. I have an extra JLF pcb to hack on. My hang-up being the solder points on the JLF’s Omrons are vertical and the Cherry’s are horizontal.

As I see it, and please correct me if I’m wrong, I only have two options…
[]Make a little plate to mount the Cherry switches and then re-wire all the stick wiring in my Madcatz SE to QD on the Cherry ends. This seems like a headache on many levels, not least of which is the Cherry have 3 ends while the Omron’s only have 2; so I’m confused on how to resolve that.
]Hack off that old Omron’s and try to use the remaining solder and bits to solder the Cherry on top into a Frankenstein’s Monster of Microswitch leads.

Any advice would be appreciated.