Check Out My New Arcade Stick! - Part III (No Image Quoting)

The dude haven’t been on the forums for like 2 years.

the case is from Marvelous customs,

Everything else you need is here:

Snag that and some buttons and you’re in business.

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Thanks KingTubb, I was looking for a new vender for some PLEXI / ARTWORK.

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FoxBlaze, the one I was referencing actually got to me same day haha, but thank you.

And KingTubb thank you very much, those links actually are p helpful, I wish I saw these the same day you posted them :+1:

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I don’t know about you guys, but I’ve been swimming in spare parts so I’ve decided to make sticks that served very specific purposes (since Brook UFB and converters make it real easy to have one or two main sticks). Behold, my Instant Brain / Dodonpachi stick:



For the uninitiated, the best console part of Dodonpachi is available on the 360… as an unlockable in the visual novel game Instant Brain. It’s a bare bones port, so you don’t get to rotate the screen, and you don’t get to reconfigure your buttons either. That means you have to rewire.

So since this is now the “Xbox 360 shmups stick,” the Seimitsu LS-56 was an easy choice. Sanwa buttons, though. Always Sanwa for buttons!

The TE Kitty keeps the stick useful for other consoles because of its button remapping function (and no, the TE Kitty won’t allow you to remap on the Xbox 360 itself). I’m happy to say that I didn’t need to dremel out any legs in the SE because those old threads made me think I had to. The TE Kitty was specifically made for the TE cases and having everything fit in the smaller SE case was always the big worry, but luckily one screw in one corner seems enough to secure both boards.

Carbon fiber wrap was the quickest, cheapest, easiest way to get rid of the ugly SF4 artwork.

Button layout Is a mishmash, so I’m going to write it here for your (and my) reference:

  • 1st row. A / B / X / LB
  • 2nd row: Y / LT / RT / RB

Basically, Laser / Bomb / Rapidfire as the first three buttons (with the appropriate colors) for the unconfigurable Dodonpachi, and then I just felt better sticking the Y button on the bottom row. Everything else just happened to fit in that weird “Microsoft-approved” layout that you’ll see in older sticks like the Tekken 6 and DOA 4 sticks.

One more recently repurposed stick I don’t think I need to post a picture of is my OG Panzer with an Axisdapter, which is still useful now that I can use it with my PSTV (and hacked Vita) in addition to my PSPgo. Happy to say the OG Panzer’s metal case doesn’t seem to affect the Dual Shock 3’s performance. It’s sporting a Hayabusa stick (seems more of an all-rounder than a Sanwa JLF) and those wacky old discontinued Kuro buttons, which, heck, I still like anyway.

I have enough parts for another “TE Kitty in an SE” build, and I plan on putting my Sanwa JLW in there… if it fits.

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case from EternalRivalJStick Crown buttons, wireless Brook board it’s simple and elegant not bad for my first build. Hardest part was the spray painting. I had a blast.

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Custom Hitbox based on my Arcade stick chassis is finished, sort of. Changed a few things around, artwork print and engraving done by FocusAttack now. Noticeable jump in quality even as they are less
open to custom orders. I needed to heavily modify the engraved panel (cutting, drilling holes and sanding) but the result wasn’t too bad. Buttons are a mixed of gamerfingers: blue cherry switches for the directions and silver for the action buttons. A few minor changes I will add later but for now its done.

The custom PCB now holds the standard 2.54mm pitch 90° pin header connector so I can simply just solder the sleeved cables on, made my life far easier.

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Hello. I’m from Argentina. I’ve made this hitBOX XXL (bigger than the original) for a friend.

It has a 3 m. Pro Detachable Cable sleeved with nautic cord. Anti-slide pads. Acrilic painting. Generic buttons.

That “Hard Games” image is the name from an old Arcade Saloon from my toen that no longer exists.

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What is that custom PCB?

It looks even beter than the original Hitbox, great work!!

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Looks like he’s gonna take you for a ride. ;p

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I picked up this PS3 Soul Edition TE on eBay a couple months ago for €25 + shipping. Came complete in the box with the instruction leaflet.

It is, at most, lightly played, so for the price I couldn’t be happier. I wouldn’t even be able to buy the stick + buttons for that money. Surprisingly fun to see the wiring inside, through the transparent side panels.

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Thought I should post my wip stick build. It’s stalled till I can get more parts.

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I forgot this thread exist,

Well let me put my last project up


Did a part swap on a Dreamcast Agetec Stick, HTK-7300
The buttons and ball top are the new keikou green, rather than getting the older green to match the stock buttons.


keikou button on top, original doo doo button on the bottom.


Wiring guide for people wanting try at home.

Pro Tips:

  1. Don’t dremel the holes wider, use a metric sized setbit instead. It’s less work, easier to do and your hands will not hurt afterwards.

  2. You want to sand or dremel the top of the LS-32/LS-40 main body smooth (there 8 raised circles) so that your joystick shaft will not rub against the bottom panel.

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looks clean af… where can i get one at a decent price plus shipping to Chile? : (

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Wait, my recent mod looks clean?

Yeah, i’ve always had problems while using dremel to do this kind of mods… Can you show the tool you used for the buttons?

Also you sanded this part to make it a better fit?

Yep, I used a dremel. It looks like it been dremelded, so like ass. But it sits flat and flush.

An belt sander would be better, but i don’t have a belt sander.

For the buttons, i used a metric sized step bit in a power drill.

Here’s my custom Injustice Battestick feat Leona Heidern I did recently.

Sanwa JLF
Qanba LED Buttons with Sanwa SW-68 switches
Stock PCB (PS3/PC)

Fun build, honestly I think the Injustice stick is pretty underrated. Really it’s only issues is only being able to mount a JLF (unless you want to do a lot of cutting), being a little too light, and the USB cable area being small. Other than that, solid stick. Noir layout, padded bottom, detachable cable, pretty cheap used and works well on PC.

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good to see older sticks being refreshed and given a new lease of life

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