Check Out My New Arcade Stick! (No Image Quoting)

ecKsniNe · October 11, 2009, 9:50pm

Lol. Cool man, looking forward to it.

thanks.

Yeah, I wash it 2x a day. It doesn’t feel great, but it has to be done.

lol

bigsexyc420 · October 12, 2009, 12:23am

thank you.

Im actually planning on selling this. That’s why I’m kinda looking for negative review to see what i need to fix.

Digital · October 12, 2009, 1:24am

I like this, very nice. :tup:

That art is very cool, I love it :tup:

Cobra · October 12, 2009, 1:37am

Can I get a link for that art? 'Tis Sexy.

System_1 · October 12, 2009, 3:14am

all of these sticks are amazing

Saint_Gut_Free · October 12, 2009, 3:58am

Thanks!

Designed by a fellow member of the Shadow Government.

deadrabbit · October 12, 2009, 7:12am

My 1st ever mod attempt, after a long from lurking these forums.

T6 Dragunov HRAP3

Seimitsu PS-14-KN 30mm Clear x4 + White x4
Sanwa OBSF-24 White x2
Sanwa LB-35 White Ball Top
Plexi + Artwork from Art. (Massive Thanks!)

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm60/meowcatx/dragu1.jpg

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm60/meowcatx/dragu2.jpg

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm60/meowcatx/dragu3.jpg

Designed the artwork myself… Blue. Black. Red. And a Leo pink version.

I can upload the 300dpi PSD if anyone’s interested.

-> Check my deviantart page for more Tekken art in this style.

kte03 · October 12, 2009, 7:16am

Dragunov Love <3! Nice! I’m planning on modding my SE with Dragunov as well

PheNOM07 · October 12, 2009, 8:16am

What kind of buttons did you use?

Lizanias · October 12, 2009, 8:50am

great Tekken artwork… :tup:

I haven’t seen many custom sticks/mods with Tekken ones here, so I’m glad to see one…

awesome wireless stick…oh I mean sticks…

Jeiro · October 12, 2009, 9:29am

Look like Seimitsu PS-14-KNs

PheNOM07 · October 12, 2009, 10:22am

Thats what I thought. I was just curious since the the snap-in PS-14-K was discontinued and its such a pain to put in a screw-in button on the bottom right most hole on the TE and SE.

DatterBoy · October 12, 2009, 10:39am

Hi Steve.
For sure

Use a rabbeting bit with a guide on your router

The distance between the guide and edge of the blade on the bit will be the width of your recess and you’ll set the router depth to be the thickness of your plexi. I did this by placing the plexi next to the bit and adjusting as needed, and test routing on a scrap piece of wood to get it just right. After that, the guide does the rest. Since the guide makes everything perfect, I simply place the completed glued and sanded box down on the router table and follow the inside edge. Very important that you do this as the last step right before staining since sanding will diminish the depth of the route and cause your plexi to not set deep enough. The corners round out because the router cannot cut square corners.

TIPS

Make sure that routing this is the 2nd to the LAST step you do before staining and should happen BEFORE you cut place and glue posts.
Test fit with a piece of plexi that is the same thickness you intend to use if you’re going for flush. If it is not deep enough, go deeper, but take care not to go too deep since you wont be able to recover outside of getting thicker plexi.
The thickness of the channel does not matter since it is mostly so the plexi does not cave in when handled, but don’t make it too thin.
This method can be used to make square bottoms too, but that would require you to chisel the rounds out. I’m more confident in sanding down plexi so I did that instead and the result looks much more elegant.

ROUNDED PLEXI

Get a custom cut plexi AFTER you route the recess. Do not get it before since it is difficult to route it to fit an already cut piece of plexi. At least I think it would be so.
Make sure the height and width and depth of the plexi fit before you round the edges
Place the plexi over the bottom and use a wet erase marker to outline the rounded corners. Be careful to leave slack since you can sand down but you can’t recover over rounding
Use your router table to route down the edge according to guides (much faster than sanding)
Use fine grit sand paper to fine tune each edge individually and work each corner independently and completely before moving to the next. Working them all a little simultaneously will not work so well.

Hope that helps!

souji5 · October 12, 2009, 4:47pm

Thanks for sharing!!! I was wondering what you used to clamp down your case while routing? Table vice?

Matskat · October 12, 2009, 5:11pm

Golgo 13 FTW!!!

I love seeing these obscure characters on sticks…

Kaytrim_s_Kustoms · October 12, 2009, 5:48pm

DatterBoy:

Hi Steve.
For sure

Use a rabbeting bit with a guide on your router

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/80/806e6a46-168c-44da-a59e-e29bcdb113f2_300.jpg

The distance between the guide and edge of the blade on the bit will be the width of your recess and you’ll set the router depth to be the thickness of your plexi. I did this by placing the plexi next to the bit and adjusting as needed, and test routing on a scrap piece of wood to get it just right. After that, the guide does the rest. Since the guide makes everything perfect, I simply place the completed glued and sanded box down on the router table and follow the inside edge. Very important that you do this as the last step right before staining since sanding will diminish the depth of the route and cause your plexi to not set deep enough. The corners round out because the router cannot cut square corners.

TIPS

Make sure that routing this is the 2nd to the LAST step you do before staining and should happen BEFORE you cut place and glue posts.

Test fit with a piece of plexi that is the same thickness you intend to use if you’re going for flush. If it is not deep enough, go deeper, but take care not to go too deep since you wont be able to recover outside of getting thicker plexi.

The thickness of the channel does not matter since it is mostly so the plexi does not cave in when handled, but don’t make it too thin.

This method can be used to make square bottoms too, but that would require you to chisel the rounds out. I’m more confident in sanding down plexi so I did that instead and the result looks much more elegant.

ROUNDED PLEXI

Get a custom cut plexi AFTER you route the recess. Do not get it before since it is difficult to route it to fit an already cut piece of plexi. At least I think it would be so.

Make sure the height and width and depth of the plexi fit before you round the edges

Place the plexi over the bottom and use a wet erase marker to outline the rounded corners. Be careful to leave slack since you can sand down but you can’t recover over rounding

Use your router table to route down the edge according to guides (much faster than sanding)

Use fine grit sand paper to fine tune each edge individually and work each corner independently and completely before moving to the next. Working them all a little simultaneously will not work so well.

Hope that helps!

Thanks for posting this information. I was wondering if you could put it over in the woodworking thread with a few more step by step pics?

ninja edit * Here is a link to the thread: Woodworking thread

souji, I use a table for these operations. It is the safest way. Just keep in mind the rotation of the bit in relation to the wood. You always want to feed against the rotation of the bit.

Michael

Saint_Gut_Free · October 12, 2009, 6:44pm

Looks great!

DatterBoy · October 12, 2009, 7:16pm

Sure. Looking to do another with top and bottom done in this manner. Will take pics and share.

:Dat

souji5 · October 12, 2009, 7:53pm

Good lookin Michael, you always got me :china:

spenzalii · October 12, 2009, 8:42pm

WOW! That art is sick. Would you be kind enough to share it? I’m working on my first custom and that would work perfectly.