Sold my Hori rap 4 kai and made the same artwork for TE2.
Hello! My new totally from scratch dual PCB stick. All the process is documented here in details, including links for the files I used to laser cut all the things.
Nice work! Only immediate change I could see is making all the top screws flush like your stick mount screws.
Very nice! Really like the corner joints you made there.
Homemade Arcade PS2/PS3 McCthulhu, Sanwa JLF (octo) and HBFS-30 Crystal 55g Brown Mechanical Switches (Really big and heavy arcade ^;^)
Razer Atrox for X-box 360 / Full Sanwa (octo) Angel’KOF 2002 Theme (yes, I do love the infinite hey, hey bug x0)
Madcatz Soul Calibur V TE for X-box 360/ Crown CWJ-303FK and Seimitsu buttons (Realy hard to customize, still thinking if worth it to give a try o.O)
Modification for the Crown CWJ-303FK fit
Old, old PS2 homemade arcade for SNK games with Fanta Myoungshin and Happ Competition Buttons (for the visits who still can´t play with the arcade in the lap =p
But I’ll really REALLY expect to have someday the Hori Hayabusa Buttons and Joystick with Kowal Octopus Restrictor at least on the Razer Atrox Arcade (my titular arcade) ^;^
Ever since I got my VLX, I’ve been meaning to get a new portable stick. My ABS Modular was just too heavy to carry around on a regular basis, and I wanted to repurpose that one as a “guest-stick” to take make the most of the modular aspect.
So I dug up a bunch of parts, ordered some new ones, and put together my new portable stick.
There really isn’t enough SE/TvC/Brawlstick love here; I’m normally not a Mad Catz user, but I like the SE-casing as it’s smaller than the TE/TE2 series, but larger than the actual compact sticks (Mad Catz Alpha, or Hori Mini), and still takes pretty much every standard arcade part that’s in use, AND has a good amount of space for mods.
Parts used:
- Mad Catz Tatsunoko vs Capcom Fightstick top-panel (stock)
- Mad Catz Fightstick KE casing, bottom-panel, Turbo-panel and sub-PCB (acquired from fellow member @LLeg3nd almost a whole year ago)
- 2x micro-tact switches (for the PS/Home and Turbo buttons on the sub-PCB)
- 8x Seimitsu PS-14-KN 30mm clear screw-in buttons
- 2x Seimitsu PS-14-DN 24mm white screw-in buttons
- Seimitsu LS-40-01 + SS plate
- Seimitsu LS-40 clear shaft cover and dustwasher
- Sanwa LB-30N white bat-top
- Hori Fighting Commander 4, on a custom ABS mount
- Neutrik NAUSB (inside-mounted)
- Bottom plexiglass sheet (hand-cut)
Front:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/tidalwav/joysticks/MadCatz-TvC2016/TvC2016_front.jpg
Back:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/tidalwav/joysticks/MadCatz-TvC2016/TvC2016_back.jpg
Innards:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/tidalwav/joysticks/MadCatz-TvC2016/TvC2016_innards.jpg
The microphone jack sub-PCB doesn’t actually do anything; it’s not connected to anything and serves only to make sure the stick- and USB-wires stay put.
Bottom plexi:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/tidalwav/joysticks/MadCatz-TvC2016/TvC2016_bottom.jpg
A better look at the top:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/tidalwav/joysticks/MadCatz-TvC2016/TvC2016_top.jpg
I don’t recall anyone doing this before, but I re-created the top-panel’s artwork using the stock pictures found online, JUST SO that I can get the button inserts to complete the artwork. 
Here’s a shrunken-down preview; I’m not going to share this as this is official artwork and I’m sure that Mad Catz still has all the rights to it. Thanks to @d3v for the Fightstick SE art-template.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/tidalwav/joysticks/MadCatz-TvC2016/TvCartwork.png
A closer look at the old Turbo-panel:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/tidalwav/joysticks/MadCatz-TvC2016/TvC2016_panel.jpg
Cleaned off all the markings. Managed to get most of the switch functionality working in conjunction with the switches on the HFC4. Didn’t end up getting RS working, but that’s ok, there’s no real use for that anyways.
The SHIFT button I’m particularly happy with. Combined with a Hex inverter and the stock trigger-switch functionality of the HFC4, I can do:
SHIFT+R1 = L1
SHIFT+R2 = L2
SHIFT+L1 = L3
SHIFT+L2 = R3
Which means that, if I’m to keep the stick as 8-buttons, I get access to L3+R3.
Even if I chose to convert the stuck to 6-button, I STILL have access to L1+L2.
It’s amazing how much more “premium” the SE casing feels with micro-tact-switches under the Home/Turbo buttons, 24mm buttons for Start/Select, and a bottom-plexi.
what or who printed your artwork? I have a brawl stick and I wanna replace the art.
@FreedomGundam Are you able to explain this a little more and how it is done?
I’d love to be able to do this with the “turbo” button since I always have a 6 button layout.
Thanks
It’s a stock Tatsunoko vs Capcom top-panel, so I guess it would be Mad Catz who printed the artwork?
The button inserts were printed at Staples.
I basically I tapped into the stock trigger-switch functionality on the HCF4, and I used the trigger solder-points for my R1/R2/L1/L2.
This solution wouldn’t (or might not?) work with, say, an MKX padhack or the Brook PS3/PS4 Fightboard or UFB.
On the HFC4, the trigger-switch works as follows:
If low, the left triggers are L1/L2, the right triggers are R1/R2
If high, the left triggers are L3/R3, the right triggers are L1/L2
Problem is, the function that you’d want is “reverse” of what a pushbutton does (if pressed, it’s low; if unpressed, it’s high); if you just directly wired up a pushbutton to the trigger-switch, you’d have to keep it held to use L1/L2/R1/R2, and release it to use L3/R3/L1/L2 respectively.
I happened to use a hex inverter that I had on-hand (there are obviously other solutions possible), since the hex inverter effectively “inverts” your button press: when the input is low, the output is high, and vice-versa.
So I had the “pushbutton” (the Turbo micro-tact-switch in this case) wired up to one of the hex inverter’s inputs, and had the output line connected to the trigger-switch’s input line.
And voilà! A “shift” button!
Ok thanks, that’s too much for my tiny little mind
Awesome work with the shift switch
Also, it’s hard to tell from the pics, but how do you have the Neutrik attached? Looks almost like rivets from here.
that’s what I get for skimming. you printed it only for the buttons. I was just wondering cause I was looking for a cheap alternative, I went to kinkos and to print a lamilabel for a brawl stick is about $25. which is a little too much for me. if I can’t find anything cheaper I guess I’ll have to get it there.
s483.photobucket.com/user/hemi34/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0416161749_zpswfatdhic.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3
Here’s my first fight stick build. Pretty basic setup. Tek-Innovations case with etching work and vinal black background, Ls 62 joystick with short throw mod 6mm, sanwa 30mm silent push buttons “blue/white”, seimitsu 30mm push buttons “clear/black” & a brooks ps3/ps4 fight board. All buttons possible are hooked up, turbo, touch key, L3, R3, options, ps home & share.
I’m donating this stick to my brother as it’s not to my liking however I have another fightstick build in progress. I’m just waiting on my foe hammer stealth 2 s7 case to arrive. Of course that one will be a whole other post.
Countersunk the mounting holes, and used countersink screws.
Got my hands on a VSHG this weekend and I must say, I am mighty impressed with the size and weight ratio. It’s an absolute cracker of a stick!
http://i.imgur.com/25V4Xt9.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/gHiB9Aa.jpg
Now it’s just a matter of ordering a plexi for the VS
Why? Just to protect the stock top / art? Just curious.
Because I want a 6 button layout and I hate the SFxT art
lol, I read “VS” as Virtua Stick, not the Mad Catz SFxT V.S. 