5

another thing to check is the connection between the disconnects and buttons. if they slide on/off easily, you might want to use pliars to tighten them so they make a solid connection. bending the button terminals is also another option.

6

Kelter try opening the case and rechecking all connections to make sure they are ok. A malfunctioning QD ie one that slips a bit might be the cause of your problem. I had a similar problem with one of the leds in my buttons and the problem was just that - a malfunctioning QD.

7

lmfao

8

I’ve noticed that 3xP and 3xK is a lot easier to hit consistently on my friend’s TE stick than on my modded Mayflash, which is basically the same issue you’re having.

I always thought that it was simply the difference between a metal and plastic panel and the difference between the Vewlix and HRAP1 button layouts.

Attaching metal weights underneath the plastic panel of your Datel stick can help muffle the loud hollow noise that the buttons make.

9

It can happen any time I try to hit more than 1 button at a time. No matter which 2 buttons.

I definitely don’t feel uncomfortable and aside from the noise it doesn’t feel any different. It uses the mayflash body and it’s just as flat as the TE.

Like I said it happens any time I’m hitting more than 1 button. Every button can be mashed cleanly by itself with no extra or lost inputs. It’s when I’m hitting 2 buttons at a time that I get a plink rather than just 2 inputs.

I don’t think it’s the connection because of the reasons I’ve already mentioned. Everything works fine it’s just when I hit 2 buttons. But, I will check them reguardless.

What do you mean slipping? as long as the metal is touching and it doesn’t fall off why would there be an issue? And again I’ll refer you to the previous reasons why I dont think it’s the disconncts but once again I will check them out.

10

The discomfort can also be subconscious as there is a difference between the joystick and button placement on a TE and Mayflash. Example:

I recently Sanwa modified a Mayflash for a guy I know who had previously gotten used to his TE. He couldn’t get on with the Mayflash at first because his natural hand position on the stick was slightly off (due to the TE). But now that he’s gotten used to it he now prefers the modified Mayflash over his TE. True story.

Now, you’ve said yourself that there’s nothing wrong with the wiring or buttons, and you’ve checked the PCB, so therefore the problem must be coming from you. If in doubt, take a long flat object and use it to press all 3 buttons at once with - what do the inputs in the game say?

There is no way that the Mayflash/Datel shell would be causing a problem unless it had melted in the middle.

11

Im going in to training mode and mashing out the buttons and i have the problem on the modded stick not the TE stick

someone even gave me a suggestion that it was the angle I was hitting it so I turned both sticks sideways and put them away from me so i had to stretch my arm out and turn my fingers sideways(basically just trying to put myself in an awkward situation)

and it would come out fine on the TE but not the modded stick.

I mean maybe it is the wiring or the buttons but, I’ve tried to elimnate that as a possibility by making sure each button comes out fine by itself and it does

12

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/1244/dsc00109ud.jpg

So here is a picture of what I’m talking about. I tried to do Ryus Ultra 2 times in a row and 1 time I got his Ultra and the other his super came out instead.

Here is a picture of the inside of the stick:

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/6918/dsc00106mb.jpg

What could be causing such a weird timing when the buttons are pressed? Could the wiring really affect that? If it were the wiring wouldnt it just either work or not work? Not sort of work?

13

i dunno how okazaki likes his setup, but kelter skelter, the connection from the buttons to the pcb, look extremely close.

so, when ure playing they might be touching?

i hate using those half insulated qd’s. i always use full

14

But if they DID touch wouldn’t I get 2 inputs when pushing 1 button? Like if I mash LP wouldn’t I get some of whatever button is next to it on the PCB?

I’ve never noticed any extra inputs. This is why I’m not convinced it’s the QDs but, it is possible.

How can I test if the QDs touching is the problem?

15

Remove all Quick Disconnects from PCB except for two Buttons?
And ideally the Quick Disconnects left are not next to each other.

Maybe something happened while you did this?

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/8981/pinsclose.jpg

Vibration?

16

Ill try that jdm.

What could have happened by cutting that off? What would cause the issue that I’m having? What’s the core problem?

Because if it is the disconnects I can just solder the buttons to the PCB but, if it’s something else…

17

There’s no point in having QD’s at both ends of a wire as you won’t be replacing the PCB anytime soon, just the buttons and joystick.

Cut off the PCB QD’s, desolder the horrible line of pins that you’ve got them connected to, then solder each button wire directly to the corresponding PCB point. 10 minute job max. Then see if you’re still having the problem…

18

Yes, that idea is weird.
Does not look cool either.

19

Well I don’t know how to solder nor do I have the tool required to do it and if that’s not the issue then I’d rather not do it.

20

lol “Noodle Stick” is now the name for a flimsy box

To add something useful: You’re going to have to do some more troubleshooting like JDM said, i.e. try just two or three buttons connected at a time. If there is a crossed connection somewhere, you need to simplify things before you can sort it out.

Also, did you have the same problem before you modded? Maybe the problem is nothing to do with the new buttons or wiring, but the PCB itself?

21

I’ve never been able to hit 3x P/K 100% of the time on any joystick I’ve used. Always a occasional misinput every now again, and then I miss EX moves or whatever. And I’ve put this down to my execution (or lack there of), especially with sanwa you need to hit all buttons dead on at the same time. So I would honestly take the occasional 2xP instead of 3xP as normal. But if you say you can get 3xP on TE stick down all the time. Then well I guess I can understand why you think there’s something wrong.

I would just work on execution though. Making sure all three fingers you hit 3x P with are completely leveled when you hit the buttons. If one finger is slightly mis-aligned to the other two then that’s a reason for 2x P instead of of 3x.

And also buttons “pliping” I think was the word you used. For example you get 3xp and then 2xp on the same input. May be because you’re not taking your fingers off the button fast enough.

22

Yes, I thought it normal like Karas13 say.
But oh well.

23

I DID have the same problem before I modded it but, I assumed it was the shitty buttons with rubber stoppers that slammed down onto a circuit board

i assumed once i put the sanwa buttons in there it would be fixed

this is why I thought it might be the case. especially considering no one mentioned it in any of the threads about the PCB

I hit PPP on my TE 100% of the time without accidently getting EXs or supers

plinking is the word i used, it’s a technique to get multiple input sout of 1 button press but i’m getting it without wanting to

24

I know exactly what you’re talking about as I’ve had this occur on most of the mod jobs I started out with. It happens the most when a case needs to be dremel’d down to fit in a button (whether the holes are too small or they have tabs).

Snap in buttons need to be tight or they’ll start to move around. Even if you’re sure your buttons are snapped on tight, try replacing them with screw-ins. If you’re still messing up, then it’s ultimately the way how you’re hitting it.

This happened on my Hori EX2 mod and my first Mayflash mod but it may not be entirely true for your case.