a
It’s most likely the micro usb cable you are using. There seems to be an issue where if it’s not completely connected properly it will get power but not data. I used 5 cables before it got recognized the first time. I ended buying this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJC4YMC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which has a much thicker and sturdier head that fits much more snugly.
To avoid any issues while playing make sure you connect to the usb in your case and make a tie off with the cable so that if it ever gets pulled on it can’t pull directly on the board otherwise buy a Neutrik USB A/B connector for a few bucks so you can place that on the edge of the case and plug in from there.
Zippy the micro on the breakout board is really the main issue as that is where most will want to plug in from with the audio port. If you can make the breakout board with a usb B connector and the audio jack on the side that would be preferred. While the micro usb b on the breakout board is slightly stronger than the one on the fighting board they are still rather small so one trip on the cord and it’s game over. The reason why we prefer the regular USB connectors like Neutrik is because if someone does trip over your cord they are strong enough to withstand the pull but also lose enough to come out without breaking. To test you can take the breakout board installed in a fight stick and connect the micro usb cable to it. Then hank on the cable from an angle as if someone tripped on it. Compare this to the standard usb. You’ll find the micro will bend the male head and possible damage the female whereas the usb b cord will just pop out.
@SunTzu81
No Problem.
If type B is on breakout board, it won’t set in the Neutrik hole.
Yeah bro, I’ve seen quite a few charge only cables.
Any way to reset the firmware on the fight board? I was dumb and tried to update it with the previous fightboard’s online updater on Brook’s website. Now it won’t work on PC. Have yet to test on PS4.
I’m going to try this. I’ve got mine installed in a Madcatz TES+ however I haven’t hooked up the touchpad, player indicators and light bar. I haven’t sorted out all the connectors on the control board. The stick works fine on PC however it did not work on the PS4.
I’ll dig out the PS3 to give this a go.
Ok didn’t need the PS3 after all. I just needed the PS button. On my PC the PS button opens steam. On the PS4 it works as it should.
@ragingcyclonus
If you have any issues, please go Brook website to helo you.
http://www.brookaccessory.com/contact/
Hi @“GOGO.Zippy”
So far so good. I just need to work the following;
Player LEDs, Blue/Green/Red (PS4 light bar), lock and LS/DP/RS.
Going nuts to be honest
Skimmed through this thread, and just wanted to point out something in regards to the USB plug:
From what I understand, USB-A and USB-B connectors are rated for 1500 connect/disconnect cycles, with the majority of the strain/wear placed on the jack on the device. So if the cable is loose, it means the jack is worn down, and you’ll have to desolder and replace it on your PCB.
Conversely, micro-USB connectors are rated for 10,000+ connect/disconnect cycles, and the majority of the strain/wear is instead placed on the plug on the cable. So if the cable is loose, it means you’ll need to replace the cable.
Micro-usb connector’s issues are related to physical connexion to the board: since the connector is small, there’s not so much tension relief, leading to the plug having its lead unsoldered or ripping soldering pads (or worse the connector itself fall off).
This is one of the major issue on the Xbox One controller per exemple.
jopamo
44
Agreed. Micro-b USB is a terrible connector design. Mini-b was worlds better but is rather obsolete now. Type C is best. It has a good design that distributes connection pressure much better than other small USB connection alternatives.
People here have told me that “you don’t need the power delivery or throughput” of Type C. No shit. Type C is just a connector (not a protocol like USB 2.0, 3.0, 3.1 gen1, or 3.1 gen 2) and one that could utilitze the same four leads (out of a possible 24) as any other USB High-speed (or better) connection. The only difference here would be that you’d have a different connector that would be reversible and NOT destroy cables nor tear itself off a board.
Hey everyone,
I want to get control panel functional and working on my TES+. I’ve put together this simple diagram which shows the outputs from the control panel and connections to the PS4+ Audio fighting board.
The R3,L3 and PS buttons easy enough and they are working fine.
I need help getting Player LEDs, RBG LED (Ps4 lightbar) and Lock/Unlock, Stick mode select and PS3/PS4 switch.
Thank you in advance.
Player LEDs = They’re right there at the bottom of the image of the board.
RGB LED = I don’t think the Brooks does that at all.
Lock/Unlock = Any Lock/Unlock switch just cuts physical signals, so it’s not something electronic or in the code.
Stick Mode = As far as I remember, the TES+ has a toggle button for this, but the Brooks has a (slider) switch. You’ll have to add additional circuitry to get this to work the way you want it to.
PS3/PS4 switch = The Brooks doesn’t have a slider switch for console select like the TES+; I believe it’s just a “force-system” by holding a button on plug-in.
I definitely want the following for sure.
Player LEDs = yes straight forward but doesn’t seem to be working. I’ve connected to the pins on the Fightboard so not sure what’s missing.
RGB LED = Jansen said that it is possible but might need his EZ mod.
Not sure about these and if these are actually needed.
Lock/Unlock = Jansen said that it is possible but might need his EZ mod.
Stick Mode = Jansen said that it is possible but might need his EZ mod.
PS3/PS4 switch = Jansen said that it is possible but might need his EZ mod.
Right now I don’t have the funds to get an EZ Mod so trying the Hard Mod route 
You’d have to check the anode and cathodes on the LEDs.
Based on that diagram, the Brooks Fightboard has the Player-LEDs in a common-anode setup (the + line is common). I can’t say for certain (haven’t fiddled with a TES+ much), but if you’re connecting the lines straight up and they’re not working, the TES+ may have a common-cathode setup instead. In which case you’d have to get creative.
So, after a few weeks of being flawless (after the couple disconnects when I first got the board) I am experiencing disconnects again. It happens at least once per session, but the other day I was disconnected 5 times over the course of an hour, so I just gave up and used a different stick. I am using the breakout board, so I’m gonna switch back to a Neutrik today and see if it keeps happening.
