I have a question. I’m gonna put the UFB in my madcatz SE (if you must know, I like the size of it more then my other sticks), and I’ve wired everything up, except for two things:
I want the LS, DP, RS switch to work, and
I want the xbox 360 home button to light up when it’s on.
Everything else works fine.
The problem with the switch, is that I can only find the wires for LS and RS from turbo panel pcb (where the switch and home button are located). What will happen if I solder on the wires only for LS and RS, and the DP holes on the board remain unused?
The second question is how do I get the xbox 360 button to light up? What and where do I solder?
Here is a picture of the stock PCB, that shows the wires that from the turbo panel:
You wire the “R stick” to RS on the UFB and “L Stick” to the LS of the UFB
As for the XBOX home to light up, you’ll have to use the secondary board, look for d3, d4, d5, d6 and wire them respectively to the P1, P2, P3, P4 sections on the UFB
DP is the default position on BOTH the madcatz controller and the Brook UFB.
Whenever a switch is not shorted to ground, DP is used.
When R Stick is shorted to gnd on the madcatz, RS is activated. When LS is shorted to ground, LS is activated. It’s clearly impossible to activate LS and RS at the same time.
When the connections are left open, DP is used.
So when you wire those pins to the UFB, DP will be used if the switch isn’t set to another position.
Just make sure you have a gnd connected from UFB to the SE. Since you said the home button is already working, then that should already be done.
One thing to remember is that the UFB allows you to switch to LS or RS by input combinations now. So you don’t really -need- to wire R stick and L stick to RS and LS. While it would be a bit awkward, you could alternatively wire L stick to “L3” and R stick to R3 for having access to those buttons on SF5. If you’re going to use your modded stick on a PS4, make sure you wire up ‘Turbo’ to 'TPKey" at least.
You can still hook up RS and LS. I’m just giving another option just in case you need access to more “buttons”
Yeah thats pretty much what I did. I’d love to 3D print a housing that fits into the honeycomb perfectly. Actually I would pay someone to do that for me.
I’m going to be buying a PS4 soon with KOF14 & Anime games. Don’t care for SF5, because I have that game already on PC. Will probably need TPKEY. Not sure about L3/R3. Will also like to use Brook UFB for KI at any offline events I might go to. The panel with LEDs, Select, Mode, Turbo, Home & switch has a GND. Do I connect the GND with a Daisy Chain along with the Start & Attack buttons’s GNDs?
I would like to use my LEDs. Not sure what to do with Turbo & Mode LEDs. I never use Turbo and don’t know what to do with that. Maybe solder Mode to TPKEY? Should I solder Switch to LS? Is VDD the same thing as VCC?
Also I know I can buy a Printer USB cable, but I still have a working replacement Q4RAF USB cable that I bought from one French website long time ago. It has 2 black ground wires. What should I do with the 2nd one during soldering?
I know I probably already asked questions about Brook & Qanba, but just want to be confident I know what I need to get before ordering. Anything else I need to buy for the mod (Cables/wires)? Any tips to a newbie on how to make this mod effective & also tidy inside the stick?
Sup. Can anyone please tell me the correct headers i would need to fill up the ufb. I already ordered the 20 pin, but im concerned about the different sizes of the others.
Connect GND to any GND point, it is common ground along with the brook and the buttons.
Mode > TP KEY
Turbo LED > TBLED
Mode LED > GND (turns on with power)
Switch > unused or LS. You can use only one direction, or don’t use it at all. UFB lets you change stick mode by holding start and left, Up or right for 3 seconds to set LS, DP, RS mode.
VDD same as VCC. Solder to the VCC point near the LEDs (3.3v as opposed to 5v).
Solder SGND to any GND point.
Buy zipties.
Any of you guys swapped out the hori rap 4 pcb for the brook ufb? I’m thinking of swapping out mine, and the wiring for the joystick + buttons looks like it was hot glued in place instead of soldered.
I have wiring kits available with the connectors for $10+shipping. Includes everything except wiring for the 20P (includes the 20P connector though). just supply your own wires to attach buttons/lever.
Hit up ArcadeShock. They have 20P wiring harnesses that plug into the 20P connector on the UFB making stock wiring issues not a big deal. Keep in mind, some RAPs that use the Touchpad, TP Click, comes through that very small FFC cable. So you will need to do a surface mount wire connection on the stock board for that signal, plus route power and ground to the stock board. Move the USB cable over to the Brook J6-1 connection by soldering it in place. The stock board will power up and let you use the TP Click. If you are OK with cutting stock wires you can clip the wires for the aux panels and solder long jumpers to them to get them to the Brook UFB so you don’t have to do too much soldering onto the stock (tiny) board.
The USB cable point RED and BLACK are a good spot to connect VCC and GND respectively, via the through hole points for the JST connector on the stock board.
Did you verify that it was an 8 minute timeout and not something like a flaky USB cord or something?
Did you get the 8 minute timeout multiple times all in the exact same method?
Anyone else getting an 8 minute timeout? Verified?
(Had to solder on the VCC, too, though, but still… 
)