Did any recent firmware updates allow for any key combos to replace any specific buttons and the switch? I think I remember seeing this somewhere but couldnât find anything after skimming the thread.
In ps3/xbox mode, TPkey is the select button, so you can wire up Tpkey instead of select. So wiring select is the same key. In ps4 mode, select is the share button.
Hello, Iâm trying to hook up my 360 fightstick pro to the brook universal fighting board. Some questions to ask?
Would there be no need to hook up DP wire at all if you were trying to connect LS/RS from the LS/DP/RS switch ?
Where would I hook up the Kground wire on the CN2 connector or is there no need to hook up kground due hooking up ground?
Anyway to hook up the lockswitch button to the UFB or you canât (I donât need the lock switch but it would be good to know if you can hook it up or not)?
How would I be able to hook up the home button if the ground wire is in a different location from the start/select button or would you still be able to hook up the home button as long as there is a ground wire?
Would I be able to hook up the Turbo LEDs as player LEDs in the fighting board (what would the VCC be use for)?
Just finished testing the pre-production run of the TE2 EZ MOD that allows installation of the UFB into these sticks with ease. I think install took about 10 minutes. Iâll be posting part 2 of the install video this evening. Until then, hereâs a nice picture:
If you only want Analog left stick, wire âLstickâ on the turbo PCB (I think this is on bank CM5) to LS on Brook UFB. The panel is common ground so you only need one ground.
KGND locks the turbo panel. if itâs unlocked, it links to GND. if itâs locked, it links to nothing. If itâs left unconnected, I believe the switch does nothing. Someone correct me on that if Iâm wrong. Someone mentioned how to hook it up, but I believe you hook it up to GND only.
Remember the 360 PCB is common ground. Just for reference, I hooked up my Qanba Q4raf PCB to the Fightstick Pro 360 Turbo panel and made âHome/Guideâ work just by hooking up GND on the Qanba PCB to GND on the LED panel (above D1-D4, under VCC), and hooking up the XGUILD pin to Xbox/PS3 on the Qanba PCB. I even made the Select button work, which is supposed to work from the Qanba q4rafâs own turbo panel instead of a Quick Disconnect button such as its start button, by hooking up a ghetto jury rigged QD connect to the madcatz select button, hooking the select wire to the select pin on the Q4raf, and the second QD on the select button (since the sanwa buttons require a ground) to the GND pin on the Q4âs microphone jumper block! So yes, all you need is GND from the LED bank.
Cant help with the LEDâs. My UFB is in my Qanba stick. I was just testing the Qanba PCB to see if it would work in the madcatz board and sure enough it works as itâs common ground.
You can ask @Vicko or @âJasen Hicksâ , but I think the PS3 version requires more work while the Xbox 360 version is childâs play (all you need are the right connections; hell you can even rip the wires out of the JST connector on the back 360 PCB, strip them and put them directly into the UFB!
I would also want to hook up the RS but to a button like L3 if that is possible
Due to the 360 PCB being common ground, would it be possible to hook up 2 KGN wires (one from CN4 via Turbo Panel and CN2 via the button panel) from the FS Pro into a GND slot in the UFB?
Looks like it can be possible power up the LEDs by soldering USB VCC from the FS Pro via CN6 connector to the UFB VCC and hook the Turbo LEDs to the Player indicators in the UFB
I havenât tested the LS/DP/RS binding on the madcatz sp3t switch, but assuming that if one position is bound to ground, it should work fine. On the Qanba Q4raf front panel for example on the PS3/PC-Xbox SPDT two-way switch, Xbox is bound to nothing (Default) while PS3/PC is bound to ground, so I hooked up the panel switch (labeled âswitchâ) to LS on the Brook UFB and it uses analog LS when set to the right (PS3).
Since there are two pins, Lstick and Rstick on the madcatz 360 turbo panel, why not just bind L3 to Lstick and R3 to right stick and see if that works? Do you really need analog functionality anyway?
The only reason I bound LS on mine is because I play Street fighter Hyper fighting on Callus, and Callus is the only emulator that is arcade perfect, and it was made back in the windows 95 days when joysticks were assumed to be analog (it wonât accept the hat switch (dpad).
On the other hand, finally hooked up the UFB to the FS Pro. Results were a success. Tested out the UFB stick on PC, 360, and Xbox 1 (will test out on my PS3 later) and they all functioned correctly. Also, wired the LS/RS to L3 and R3 respectively and they both worked.