How simple is it to install into a old TE? I have the first version made. Does the pcb mount into the stick without any problems? Do I need to modify it to fit? How would I wire the actual joystick? (The JLF) What about the usb cable?
Well, Iâm very grateful for his work (yours too, for sure :)), and I can tell you thereâs a world of difference between my HRAP VX SA Kai (Xbox360) and my VLX Kuro/Hayabusa, two extremes in terms of PCB input lag. I use Honda in USF4, and 10 to 15 ms can make or break my visual-confirmed piano execution (c.lp into hands), since itâs challenging for me and I can tell I barely make it when I do. I notice my success rate is greater with the HRAP VX SA Kai, and the measured PCB lag values agree with this (though the Kai variation of the VX SA wasnât tested, Iâve noticed itâs very, very good, and the original VX SA is the best in the Xbox360 table), so I donât have to be paranoid. Iâm happy that the Brook UFB is supposedly good and Iâll be able to drop the VLXâs stock PCB.
You can hot glue or tape it down. If the madcatz USB cable is soldered to the original PCB, then you either buy a USB A to B cable and use that port on the UFB, or solder the madcatz cable. If the madcatz has a JST connector on the USB, then you can just unplug it and use it on the UFB. BTW the UFB can accept 4 or 5 pin USB to JST cables (e.g. the Qanba q4raf USB cable fits on it). For wiring harness, you can either strip the ends by where the wires connect to the madcatz and use the screw holes on the UFB, or buy a 20 pin harness from paradise arcade and use the 20 pin UFB connector.
Wiring the front panel and the pole switch requires soldering unfortunately.
I was thinking of just wiring the home button to the back button. I donât really use the share/select/back button anyway. I donât need the pole switch either. Would that gonna pose a problem on the stick? I was thinking of removing the home button and the switch completely and order a custom plexiglass without that areas showing. I want the panel to look cleaner. I can just use an A to B usb cable right? Just to avoid any soldering?
Select buttonâs rather important. You either need that or you need the Touch Panel (TP) key. TP key is recommended because TP key becomes back/select in PS3/Xbox 360 mode, and Touch panel in PS4 mode. So youâre going to need Home/Guide, Start, and TPKey/Select.
There are two USB ports on the UFB. One requires soldering (or a JST connector), one takes a USB A to B cable.
Oh ok. I was thinking if that was the case I would get a sanwa sdm 18 and drill a hole for it. Iâll use that for home and leave start and back as they are. That should be fine right?
For that iron, you can get more life out of it even if the tip is irreplaceable. Find some pavement or a bit of sandpaper and get that soot off of there for more surface area. Itâs a little shadetree but works in a pinch.
Since TPKey is âOptions/Selectâ if not on PS4, you should use both âTP keyâ and âOriginal Selectâ + Home/Xbox key for update. Since some people donât wire âold selectâ anymore and use TPkey instead.
SoâŚFW update should accept âHomeâ AND TPkey or Home+Old Select.
I got my replacement UFB and Jasen board a few days ago. Took about 10 mins to put in and works flawlessly now. Shout outs to Arcadeshock, Jasen, Brook, and everyone else in this thread for the help.
Hi guys Iâm new to SRK and I recently purchased a UFB for my custom stick. Do you guys know what type of switch I should use to solder to J7. Could you also tell me where to find one? I really wanna use this thing in LS mode so I can play arena fighters. Thanks for your help!
You can use a SPDT or SP3T switch. To use an SPDT switch, ground one side and hook the other pin to LS, then you can use LS or DP (default).
If you want RS, you need an SP3T switch. I donât know why RS would ever be needed though.