The default mode for the Brook UFB on PC is Xbox One. You need to hold 3P to force Xbox 360 mode upon connection. Are you holding 3P while connecting?
Have you done a firmware update to the board recently? Whether the answer is yes or no, download the latest version and flash the board again regardless.
Something may have gotten hosed in the update process.
On a side note: what version of Windows are you running on that PC? If it is Windows 7, that will change this conversation significantlyāas there have been issues reported with the UFB getting properly recognized on Windows 7 PCs
Amusingly, you simply mentioning that the default is Xbox One got me thinking about that being separate drivers than the 360 controller.
A little digging and I find the driver (no longer hosted by MS themselves) on Techspot. Installed that, plugged in Xbox One controller, and it works. Then I plugged in my hitbox with the UFB, and it detects as an actual Controller. Test in SFV, DBFZ, DOA5LR⦠all of it works flawlessly. Huzzah!
I“ve purchased a UFB and, after wiring it properly, evertything works well but left/right directional.
I“ve triplechecked wiring ant it looks perfectly ok. i“ve checked for bad tracks on the board but i“ve noticed it“s also perfect (I tracked it from the bourne to the big chip in the center and it“s ok).
Are there any further troubleshooting steps I could take before to start a (boring/too long) return/refund process?
Hmm. Maybe try taking wires from the left and right input off of the ufb and a ground wire and one of them at a time to the ground while plugged into the console and see if that does anything.
Also did you redownload it or did you just use reuse one already downloaded? If you just reused the download try downloading a new patch and try again.
Well the previous version wouldnāt work without the 8 minute timeout. They release new firmware everytime Sony patches it. So the shorting of the wires didnāt work either?
Quick question, does the entire board need to be wired up in order for it to function? I wanted to update the board before finishing making my arcade stick and so I only plugged in the PS and Options/Select button. However, no button presses are being recognized; I even plugged in the left/right direction buttons and plugged it into my PS4 and still nothing. The PCB is being picked up by my computer in device manager (albeit with an error), so there is some type of connection. Is the PCB laid out so that itās not a complete circuit unless all of the 20 terminals are filled? Or perhaps did I miswire my connection? as I am using a USB-B cable spliced into an Ethernet cable and then running it through the neutrik passthrough?
Figured Iād ask before I go into trial and error mode.
It works without being wired up completely, and you can certainly update it that way. As long as you wired ground to the buttons properly, the only likely problem is that thereās a mistake in the ethernet cable wiring. You might want to try connecting a USB cable directly to the Universal and plugging that into a computer to find out if thatās indeed the trouble.
So I picked up a USB-B to USB-A cable just to test the PCB and the light is coming on now, which is good, but the computer is not picking it up (no longer shows up in device manager) and nothing happens when I try to firmware update.
Are you able to try a JST connector on the alternative USB header? USB to ethernet to USB wiring works fine done right (itās the basis of dual modding to an MC Cthulhu) but if you connected the VCC to the ground in error itās possible the board has been damaged
Wasnāt sure if the pins would fit this connector or not, but I need it for another project Iām working on anyways, so no harm if it doesnāt work.
In terms of the wiring of the ethernet header, I can show you what the ethernet to usb-a side looks like and how I wired the wires to the custom cable if that would give any more details.
UPDATE: additional info
The cable that goes to the console was wired like this.
It has always been wired up in this manner when testing, and all wires were individually wrapped when tested, so little to no chance of two wires crossing. I did plug it into my ps4 to see if it would respond but nothing happened.
I still have a couple of troubleshooting tests I can do off the top of my head:
Change the Ethernet side of the spliced cord
Change the USB-B side of the spliced cord
Wire directly from the 4 pin connector on the board
Give up and try to contact the seller for a replacement board/buy a new one
Though let me know if anyone has any better ideas as 1/2 of these require me to cut more cables and 1/4 is an extremely expensive option