I was wondering if anyone ran into any problems with the ufb pcb so far since it came out besides what is posted on the thread. Like input problems for example, the buttons work fine, but when I do a directional down input its inconsistent (1 down input being read as 2 or there will be no response at all). It can be the PCB of the joystick (sanwa), so I’m buying a new one just in case. I just ask because I experienced this problem with the Brook super converter (xb1/360 to ps4) with two sanwa joysticks I own and I’m kind of experiencing it with the ufb now. The down input still kind of messed without the Brook products so I don’t know who to put the blame on.
Plus, did anyone here go to tournaments with the ufb to test it on multiple consoles or interactions with other controllers/other dual modded controllers plugged in?
I just bought the ufb and I just hope its not a hassle and it will last for years (5 yrs) like my other pcb mod. I’ll update if the new joystick pcb fixes my input problem.
It’s worked on every console I’ve played on at local tournaments/people’s houses and on every PC (provided I used the forced 360 mod I think it’s 3P to access it
1 - According to specs it uses Xinput so does this mean no more input lag on W10?
2 - Will it allow for the full usage of 8 buttons on W10 without the use of third party software or converters?
3 - Lastly can i use the Hori Hayabusa stick without soldering, it uses 6 pin cable if i am not mistaken the PCB has a “vcc” this could be used for the 6th pin cable correct in order to use the Hayabusa?
Your help and feedback is much appreciated.
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When I I was testing it on skullgirls (check videos online for lag test demos) I didn’t see or felt any input lag, and all 8 buttons work without any software or converters. All is needed is the update, and everything to connected properly. The update forces the pcb to 360 mode from what I read so it can be recognized easier.
Answered in question answer 1.
Are you talking about the 6 pin cable the involves the player LEDs (D4,D5,D6, D7)? I know that involves vcc. The LEDS, Turbo, L3 R3 Touchpad, and the USB options (if ur not using the A to B connection on the pcb) would need soldering. So another option is to buy the UFB pcb with headers so u wouldn’t have to solder those options, there will just be pins for easier connections for those options. The way u connect them is up to u. One last suggestion I can think of is keeping the sticks pcb and connect it to UFB pcb so the extra options ur stick has wont go away, but this more tedious and might require some soldering.
When I I was testing it on skullgirls (check videos online for lag test demos) I didn’t see or felt any input lag, and all 8 buttons work without any software or converters. All is needed is the update, and everything to connected properly. The update forces the pcb to 360 mode from what I read so it can be recognized easier.
Answered in question answer 1.
Are you talking about the 6 pin cable the involves the player LEDs (D4,D5,D6, D7)? I know that involves vcc. The LEDS, Turbo, L3 R3 Touchpad, and the USB options (if ur not using the A to B connection on the pcb) would need soldering. So another option is to buy the UFB pcb with headers so u wouldn’t have to solder those options, there will just be pins for easier connections for those options. The way u connect them is up to u. One last suggestion I can think of is keeping the sticks pcb and connect it to UFB pcb so the extra options ur stick has wont go away, but this more tedious and might require some soldering.
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Thank you for your reply,
Quote from Arcadeshock.com regarding the Hayabusa silent stick:
“Please note that this stick uses a 6-pin harness. The additional connection for power, which you will need to solder to the pcb. On the Brook UFB, it’s noted as VCC on the terminal block. On other PCB’s, it will vary. If you’re not familiar with basic modding, please do not attempt to install this. While not difficult to do, we understand modding isn’t for everyone.”
On the Brooks Universal Fighting Board on the blue header you see at the far right VCC together with gnd, 4k,3k,2k,1k, gnd, 4p,3p,2p,1p etc etc…no not going for leds just want to attach the pins on the blue header which seems solder-less correct as also seen in some tutorial videos. But if its necessary to solder il pass on this Hayabusa stick and opt for Sanwa JLF silent. Just sucks that Microsoft won’t bring out drivers for Xbone sticks otherwise i would have purchased Razer Atrox now i have to custom build one my self. But at least i can use it on multiple different consoles if everything goes well.
Xbox360 and XboxOne modes have XInput support on the PC. The other modes don’t. e.g., if you force PS4 mode, no XInput support on the drivers.
Input lag on Windows 10 if you use DirectInput…?
I have found the PS4 mode of the Brook UFB is the fastest among the PS3, PS4, Xbox360 and XboxOne modes. A friend who has a button with an additional pair of quick disconnects soldered and I did tests consisting of 500 tries (Ryu’s solar plexus strike in USF4 (PC)) a few weeks ago. There’s more we want to check…
so you are going to use it on PC?
you can press 3P or 4P to force it into Xbox360 mode or XboxOne mode, which are both Xinput.
Besides, what is the OS of your PC?
Quote from Arcadeshock.com regarding the Hayabusa silent stick:
“Please note that this stick uses a 6-pin harness. The additional connection for power, which you will need to solder to the pcb. On the Brook UFB, it’s noted as VCC on the terminal block. On other PCB’s, it will vary. If you’re not familiar with basic modding, please do not attempt to install this. While not difficult to do, we understand modding isn’t for everyone.”
On the Brooks Universal Fighting Board on the blue header you see at the far right VCC together with gnd, 4k,3k,2k,1k, gnd, 4p,3p,2p,1p etc etc…no not going for leds just want to attach the pins on the blue header which seems solder-less correct as also seen in some tutorial videos. But if its necessary to solder il pass on this Hayabusa stick and opt for Sanwa JLF silent. Just sucks that Microsoft won’t bring out drivers for Xbone sticks otherwise i would have purchased Razer Atrox now i have to custom build one my self. But at least i can use it on multiple different consoles if everything goes well.
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Oh ok. I should’ve realized that, I’m not really familiar with the hayabusa. Anyway you should be fine because since the VCC terminal is there you don’t have to solder it in. You would just have to cut each wire and put them in the associated terminal (GND, up, down, left, right, VCC). Other PCBs need soldering.
I bought the Razer Atrox myself so I know what you mean. I’m just modding a different stick now.
If I install this into an Xbox One TE2, would I need some sort of adapter to go from the board to the USB plug? That doesn’t look like a USB plug exactly on the board and I didn’t see anything about wiring up USB to the actual board.
I have a TE2 Crossbone in there right now, and I believe my issue is one of the pads I’ve soldered to on the PS4 PCB started to peel off and it just doesn’t ahve the best connection. I’ve tried a few times to fix it and just did not have luck so I’m thinking of just getting one of these instead. Or I might actually use this in my old X360/PS3 joystick and use that instead.
I haven’t looked inside of my TE2 in a while, but I believe I had to splice some wires open from the USB cable to solder to the Crossbone. Will that hinder my installation of this if I install it on the TE2 or will it be fine? I haven’t checked out the installation video yet but will this evening when I have some time.
Was at KiT this weekend and alot of Brook users were having an issue. Tourney setups had maybe 3/4 consoles plugged into a power strip. If a Brook UFB user was plugged in and playing and another player plugged their stick up on another setup it would disconnect the Brook user. People started figuring it out around day 2. We figured it was a lower distribution issue maybe, but curious if this has been documented it was ever an issue before?
Couple questions as I’m just about to place an order for this I just wanted to make sure a few things before I purchase it.
Anyone know the physical size of the board? I want to know if it will fit inside of my custom case where I’m thinking of mounting it. It’s a PS3/Xbox360 joystick that I have with a Cthulu and Xbox 360 Retro Joystick PCB in it and I’d be gutting it and putting this in it.
This is probably a really dumb question, but the PCB shows GND points in multiple spots and the installation diagram shows certain buttons GND being ran to specific GND points on the Brooks board. The GND wires can all go to the same GND on the Brooks board right? I have all of my buttons daisy chained with a ground and would basically just be connecting that to one spot.
Again another probably stupid question, but I see the Brooks board has a VCC point as well. On my current stick that this would be replacing, I am using the VCC of the Cthulu and 360 PCB to connect to my switch, which in turn connects to my USB wire. But if I’m just using the Brooks and going directly to a USB plugged into it, the VCC point isn’t even necessary correct?
Thanks.
EDIT:
I got the dimensions from contacting them through support, here it is in case anyone else needs it.