I think that the brook retro-board missed the opportunity to be the best board on the market if they had only included the two thumb stick support that the PS4+ Audio has. Without the thumb sticks there are so many games you can’t play. Also it is not called the Retro Fight Board so they should have targeted the other 98% of people who don’t play fight games…sure I like street fighter but I love Halo, Ninja Gaiden, and every other first person game. They should have also added custom solder points on the board to make your own connections to other systems that require more than 8 wires. Please come out with a revision 2 that addresses these concerns.
hey thank. now i can make my custom snes and gamecube cables with a neon green cable sleeve
Thank you, that really helped.
Hey guys, I’m trying to use the Brook Retro on a Wii via an RJ45 to Gamecube cable, but it doesn’t work at all, the console doesn’t detect it, I tried it using a Gamecube Game, Wii VC titles and Retroarch (Which is where I wanted to use it) but unfortunately no luck.
The board and cable does work on a Gamecube, so I don’t think that it’s hardware related.
Any help?
1 Like
I’m thinking about connecting the Brook Retro board to a Kaimana J2, and I was wondering if anyone knows the safe power draw limits of the various retro consoles? As far as I know, the LEDs on this thing are ws2812 units, and at 2 LEDs per and 8 buttons total, that’s a power draw limit of around 4w. (50mA x 8 buttons x 2 LEDs @ 5v = 4w)
I think the Dreamcast controller fuse is rated to 2w 0.5w across all four ports, but are any of the other old consoles power-limited? Is there any way to augment the power available to the Retro so it doesn’t need to draw as much from the controller port?
edit: holy crap is the Dreamcast fuse weak
Can I get some help updating the firmware? I’m pressing Start+1K and connecting USB but the Brooks updater doesn’t give me a chance to update.
Check this link:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0748/3745/files/RetroFightingBoard_V10_201807_BETA.zip?404
man there’s some silly things being said here.
anyway this board is bloody amazing. I trie dto dual mod with a wfb: Brook Wireless Fighting Board & Retro Board Dual mod
WARNING: LONG POST ALERT
This is a copy of an email I sent to Arcadeshock. This is the story of me modding a MAS stick. It’s really long, and shows how I installed Please enjoy…
As a recommended product, It’d be nice if you had a …187" compatible quick connect harness that could be bought from your site. This way people trying to mod an American style stick like the MAS stick [in my case] doesn’t have to cut the .110" connectors and crimp .187" disconnects onto them, or make .110" male to .187" female adapters. Also, it appears that Jasenscustoms website is gone, If that’s the case, can you import the Retro Board and UFB Stack models, and maybe the Panzer Fight Sticks to your site?
Anyways, Here’s the full story of his MAS stick.
When I first got it, it was stock and unmodified. The down position was very bad, and all the connections were soldered to the micro-switches. I decided to install the Cthulhu Multi-console PCB.
Day 1
I soldered the Ethernet cables onto the 2 Cthulhu PCBs I have. Unfortunately, I damaged one of the 2 while soldering prohibiting it’s use.
I took all the soldered micro-switches off except 2, and those 2, I removed all the solder so that I can make the .187" harness and wire it up.
Day 2
I made the ground harness, and the signal wires.
Day 3
I wired everything into the Cthulhu PCB and tested it.
Day 4
I retested it, fixed whatever was wired incorrectly, and was done.
Now for the star of the show, the Retro Board Mod
The owner of the stick asked if there was a way to make the Toodles Cthulhu work with the Universal Fighting Board. I told him that there is a way, but I’m too lazy to try to figure it out, and risk damaging another PCB, so I decided to buy the Retro Board like I had originally planned to do anyways. The only reason I used the Cthulhu was because ParadiseArcade duplicated my order making me purchase 2 instead of one, so I decided to use it.
Day 1
I first cut off the top 2/3 of every .110" female connection on the 20 pin harness, pulled off all the protective sleeves, replaced them with .187" sleeves, and crimped over them with .187" female connects. I kept the .110" sleeves since I knew at some point they’d come in handy.
Day 2
I used the modified harness to connect everything. Unfortunately, the lk and lp were too far apart while hooking up the grounds, and I couldn’t rotate the buttons well enough to compensate [no wrench…,] so. I skipped it while wiring, and made the .187" male to .187" female adapter to compensate for the skip. Also, there was a need for a .110 connection for the home button, and it was too far away, so I made an adapter to accomplish that. I popped opened my Hitbox that had both the Retro Board and the UFB, and copied what I saw making the new wiring job easier.Everything was hooked up via the ribbon Cables, the multiplier kit, and the harness
Day 2 [continued]
I hooked up the Mas Stick to the PS4, and was wondering why it didn’t work. Then I felt like an idiot. I quickly grabbed a Brook PS3/PS4 to PS3/PS4 Super converter and Street Fighter 5. I noticed that the Up and Down were inverted. I inverted them correcting the mistake, and everything I tested worked.
Now, whenever he gets his Retro Board we can pop it onto the Ribbon cable, bridge the USB connections, and it’s done. I’ll probably jumper the board so that the Brook UFB is the default later.
What took me days creating my own wiring harness and hooking it all up properly with the Cthulhu took hours when I used the items purchased from ArcadeShock.
All in all, I’m greatly satisfied with my purchases.
==============================================================================
I plan to reuse the Cthulhu and wiring in another friend’s stick.