Brook PS3/PS4 "Fightboard" PCB Thread

the FB seems ok after the 4.70 update and testing. I dont think were gonna need a patch this round! (also tested the UFB and the PS4+ Audio - all working as well).

yes, you need to hold the touch key and touch the corresponding corners of the touchpad to get the desired input

I’ve been getting random disconnects over the past few days, the board isn’t new at all and I’ve tried updating it just to make sure.

It doesn’t consistently happen (sometimes 10 mins, sometimes 30 mins, sometimes not at all for a long time), so I don’t think its a 8 min timeout issue, and I can just hit the PS button and it instantly reconnects, I don’t even need to plug it in again.

I should mention as well that when I use it in PS3 mode, it doesn’t disconnect.

Any ideas?

Dropping in to say that I’m having the same problems as ihopeidie. My board has had no issues up until now, randomly disconnecting after long periods of time. It averaged about 30 minutes before the controller disconnects.

Unfortunately, I have to disconnect the usb. I’ve only been using my PS4 since i’ve been mainly playing Tekken 7.

Hopefully this isn’t too big issue and we’re just the unlucky ones.

@Brook_Engineer
Can you please let me know if it is possible to use Brooks fighting board to connect with dual shock 2 , if i manually solder the wires of dual shock 2 controller with the brook PCB board , will the set-up work … I don’t want to use ps2 to ps4 convertor .

If the ps2 board is common ground then yes. You just have to wire accordingly.

just curios, what are the m1 and m2 solder points on this board for? ive been searching for it and cant find any info. also, what is the best way to connect a few 3v leds to this board? just use usb positive and add some resistors, or is there a lower voltage point i can attach to?

m1 and m2 are probability test points

You have most likely fallen into the old trap. You have a led which says something like Vf = 3V.
That is the forward voltage drop and not the required voltage for the LED.

You still need Ohms law of V = I R to find the resistance.
Here is a LED resistor calculator that is helpful

https://www.digikey.com/en/resources/conversion-calculators/conversion-calculator-led-series-resistor

Off the bat I say use a 150 ohm resistor per LED if you are wiring the LEDs in series.

awesome, thank you!

I recently bought a Universal Brook and it only stays in HID Transfer mode,It normally updates but continues as HID Transfer,I left the buttons pressed and it does not appear as game controller.Can you help me with this?

it’s in update mode, that means the PS pin and SELECT pin are somehow shorted…
you use the terminal block for wiring?
try to dismantle the wires on the 2 pins to see if it still stays in HID Transfer
or, you may try to find other wires to test

it’s in update mode, that means the PS pin and SELECT pin are somehow shorted…
you use the terminal block for wiring?
try to dismantle the wires on the 2 pins to see if it still stays in HID Transfer
or, you may try to find other wires to test
[/quote]

Thanks for the attention, she is not installed in control, I went to test before assembling and she is like that.

Hey guys, i recently bought a Custom PS4 Hitbox(http://arcadeforge.net/Arcade-Sticks/Custom-Hitbox-Arcade-Fight-Stick-for-Playstation-4-PS4-PS3-PC-or-xbox360::230.html) which contains a brook fighting board PS3/PS4 and i’m experiencing some trouble configuring it for SF5 on PC.
**
List of things i’ve observed:**
-Comes up as p4 wired gamepad V1.6, listed as a Xbox peripheral
-Directionals work in-game as do 3P,4P,START and SELECT as default when i load up the game.
-Once i set all the punches and kicks in-game the directionals stop working.
-2K registers as 1K(1K works as intended)

**Things I’ve done thus far:
**-Updated firmware from the brook site.
-Cursory check of the soldering job on the pcb and it seems fine.

If anyone could share any information/solutions that would be super.

I would contact arcade forge. They installed it so they should fix it. 2k registering as 1k sounds like bad soldering/wireing job to me. Normally you could open it up and try to fix it yourself, but why go through the hassle of that and risking your waranty when its a new product you just bought?

I did yesterday no reply as of yet, Just checking to see if this may be a software problem with this particular board. As the shipping time between them and I would be quite long(Aus to Germany) Looking at the 2K soldering job there isn’t anything that immediately jumps out that looks off, could be faulty wires etc?

Not too sure why that would explain the directionals not working after i set the keys in-game. Sorry for the double post.

Can u post a pic? Ive installed one of the pcbs before and its so tiny its very easy to mess it up and not notice.

Sure, the wiring is abit of a cluster as the incasing is quite small. Thanks for looking at it mate.

Pics are a bit fuzzy, its too hard to make out if theres any shorts. Do you have a multimeter?

Quick question, are you able to test it out on a console?