I was curious on this myself. Are you saying that newer versions of the board have small capacitors built in that make these unnecessary?
Do you have any documentation that gives full formation on the layout of the board? The information on your site is limited only to the outside connectors.
Bypass caps can be done a lot of different ways. In very sensitive designs you would do 3 caps in a row before getting to the power pin of an C. Something like 100uF, 10uF, 1 uF stepping down. Its not always required and sometimes you figure that out during testing. In this case, it looks like Brook planned on using 2 big electrolytic capacitors that step down to 2 MLCC (or similar to include polarized tant caps) caps before hitting the power rails on the LDO to help power ripples. I assume that based on their testing the big caps didnât do anything sufficient to justify adding them which make the board bigger in height.
Brook doesnât need to provide more information on the layout of the board or the whyâs of how they designed it for us. Making any of that open source/knowledge would, in my opinion, make it far too easy for someone to come along and copy the design. It doesnât add to the conversation on best practices for install/troubleshooting/use.
I was only referring to Gogoâs statement above about the small capacitorâs.
Is there a chance we get to have togglable asynchronous SOCD on the horizontal axis? I guess this can be done by updating firmware.
Basically switch between:
L + R = Neutral
and
L + R = Right (last button pressed)
R + L = Left (last button pressed)
Here is a video about it for modding a HitBox:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMHT50OgvOQ
Can anyone help me understand how the âTurbo LEDâ functions? I took my joystick out of an old PDP Injustice stick and it has a small PCB for the blue LED that came stock with it. I have it wired up to the Turbo LED function on the Brook PCB but I canât figure out how to get it to light up. I have a button wired to the Turbo button as well. Pressing and/or holding the button does not seem to light the LED up.
If it makes a difference, I am currently testing the PCB out on my Windows 10 machine prior to putting it into a stick. I have already successfully updated to the latest firmware.
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
Iâm willing to bet that the LED takes power on one side and ground on the other. The Brook boards cycle the ground side of the LED to flash it.
Well, I have the power and ground hooked up according to the wiring diagram. Currently the LED is not responding.
Are you saying that this LED should flash? It would not emit a constant light?
Yes, it should flash when turbo is active.
And to activate turbo mode should be as simple as pressing the button that is wired up to the âTurbo_Keyâ?
I appreciate the help. I may just scrap the idea of using this LED in the joystick if it is going to be too much of a hassle. All my other buttons seem to be working just fine.
Yeah, you hit the turbo key (hold I think) and click the button you want to be turbo. The LED should flash.
Take a very close up picture of your led connection so I can see how itâs hooked up.
Hmmm⌠I see. Thanks for the quick responses. I tried what you suggested and the LED still is not responding. I donât think the LED itself is the issue as it was still working earlier before I took it out of my PDP stick.
Anyways, the more I think about it, the less I actually want to go through with this. I would have preferred a solid LED as opposed to the flashing one, and having to wire up a turbo button is not really something I want to do anyways. Was worth a shot I guess lol.
The joystickâs inputs are all correct, and each button is recognized, so I think I will just move on. Thanks again!
Started manufacture and sale of adapters. The thread has photos and reports of satisfied customers. All is written in Russian, so you can view photos only.
And guide
Interesting board, basically a combo of the ist and the pas breakout. How much?
So Iâve updated to the latest 3.50 firmware on the PS4.
I did three tests and with two tests, I received a weird issue after 8 minutes. It was like the directional stick was constantly held to the right and I couldnât get any anything to work until I unplugged and re-plugged back in.
In another test, after 8 minutes, I got âcontroller has been disconnectedâ issue. Iâll try and post a video of it.
Currently there are two options.
http://i.imgur.com/jMSFCjG.jpg
[/details]
2) VIP version. [details=Spoiler]
[/details]
At the moment, the production cost us a little bit expensive. So while the price of the regular version $ 18, $ 22 for VIP
For now we do not have BROOKs. After about two weeks, we get a little Brooks. It will be possible to sell them with adapter. Price Brooke leaves $ 40. We can solder it if you wish.
In the near future, the price of the adapters down to competitive.
[quote=âmR_CaESaR, post:654, topic:176865â]
So Iâve updated to the latest 3.50 firmware on the PS4.
I did three tests and with two tests, I received a weird issue after 8 minutes. It was like the directional stick was constantly held to the right and I couldnât get any anything to work until I unplugged and re-plugged back in.
In another test, after 8 minutes, I got âcontroller has been disconnectedâ issue. Iâll try and post a video of it.
[/quote]@mR_CaESaR
Brook should update a patch file to fix timeout issue on 3.50 tomorrow.
Thanks 
I am just sharing this tutorial I created for the IST breakout for those looking at this piece.