I can tell you what they are if I know what you are talking about.
Basically this is my problem. I don’t know which one goes where (they fit in either slot).
I hate that ^
I always mark the top one with a bit of Sharpie for easy reminding when I’m putting it all back together.
Follow the ribbon cables to the top control panel, find the one that plugs into the row with the XGUILD spot on the label, and voila, you know which one plugs into the top and bottom spot.
I thought I would be able to see more.
But you would have to trace where the wire goes yourself.
You see at the Turbo section there are three harnesses?
Each of them are labeled, and they go to the labeled places on the TE PCB.
XGUILD on the Turbo place, the middle harness of the three, go to XGUILD on TE PCB.
If you don’t want to do that, then just connect the harness blindly.
Then test if the Guide works.
If not work, then wrong.
If work, then right.
Alright guys, I got the pins and situated and stuff but an odd problem has come up.
For some reason my B button is not working anymore. I have tried a different button so I think something is up with the actual pcb/qd somewhere. Where should/can I start to figure out why only this one button isn’t working?
Note: I have not put a drop of solder on the PCB yet.
Another Note: I have shuffled around the QD’s and realized the actual B button works. Also the ground AND signal wire/QD for the B button works. From what I can tell, the problem lies with the PCB somewhere. I’m sure what I can do to fix this though.
Thought: Could I have ruined the B button FUNCTION when I removed/reconnected the pins?
Thought; Likely false. It’s like unplugging a toaster and plugging it back in later. Not gonna hurt it. I’d try removing both QDs, and while it’s running, touch the two together (This simulated a button press). If not this, then travel the color down the line, until you reach the mesh of wires on the strip with them all. Unscrew, look at the bottom, it should look like this (except for the wires soldered on. Note; This is an infinitesimally better place to solder the wires to your chimp to for ALL of your buttons. There’s a lot more space in there to solder your wires, and it’s near impossible to bridge solder across the two, the only thing I soldered directly onto the Madcatz PCB was the directions and the USB wires)
Also note, the side that is soldered to is the button inputs, the lower side is all ground.
Touch a piece of wire from the ground side to the point that the wire for B is soldered to. This also simulates the input.
Try these, and if it still doesn’t work, I’ll advise you further.
General testing; if a ground wire touches a wire going to an input, that input is now activated. Pushbuttons are switches that are made to touch a ground and input together (Warning, don’t let a ground touch a VCC/5V wire. There will only be two of these in the ENTIRE dualmod (one running from the Xbox 360 PCB 5V to ChImp’s VCC, one running from the USB wire to the ChImp, and you’re extremely unlikely to let them touch, but I had to warn you. PCBs are pretty tough in most cases, but THIS is devastating to them)
After a long break due to the frusteration of the button not working, I have tested it as you said. Unfortunately the B function still does not work.
I think I may have damaged the B pin when i removed/re-connected the pins. As you said, that’s not likely the case, but I don’t know when why else the B button would not work?
Hmm. Well, next up, time to jumper. Which is just fancy talk for putting a wire from point A to B where wires typically aren’t. Solder a wire from the B point to the 2K pin (from the image in the earlier post). Should work fine now. Be careful, though, use solder lightly, those pins are quite small, and it doesn’t take much.
I’m sure I damaged the actual connector because when I connect the actual pin to ground, the B function works.
Is there anyway to replace the pin connector? For that matter, there there any way to fix it? I want to make this fix as “clean” as possible (no solder or wires if necessary). Otherwise I’ll go with what you said.
Hmm. Okay, well, hmm… I’m not exactly sure how to fix the harness itself, You could probably look for a replacement, but for a piece of plastic that can be fixed otherwise, it may be a bit much. Maybe check the B pin to make sure none of the glue got up in there and is breaking your circuit.
For whatever reason, the B button works again (probably some glue or something like you mentioned).
Nerrage, thanks for point out the alternative solder location. I will definitely be using those solder points instead. I just need to find me some decent wire.
No problem. Definitely makes it much easier. Glad to hear it’s working again.
Don’t really have any alt points for joysticks, though. You COULD try to solder to the microswitches. I tried this myself, but it didn’t really work out. You may have more luck, though.
Hey Nerrage, can I just wire one of the grounds (lower row) to the ChImp in that picture you posted(since it’s common ground?) or would need to solder all of them to ground on the ChImp?
Or there a better ground point to solder to, like on the actual PCB?
You don’t need to solder ANY grounds except for the one from the xbox 360 madcatz PCB where the USB wire is. As long as there’s one ground wire touching the ChImp, you’re good. Internally, this wire touches every point. Common ground means there is a ground wire that touches every single point, and the ChImp does this for you. It doesn’t hurt, however to solder more grounds together, as long as you solder ground to ground. The ChImp has 4 points to solder ground to just for this purpose. You can use 1 or all four, it’s not gonna hurt anything as long as you’re soldering ground to them.
This works fine. I can’t find the diagram I used when I did it, but all you’d have to do is grab a piece of spare wire and test which tabs are ground/signal.
Not even necessary with Sanwa Sticks. Not sure of Seimitsus. But I know the sides of the microswitches on sanwa sticks have “COM” written on the ground wires, and “ON/OFF” for the inputs.
After slaving over this mod and getting some help from a friend, I have done it. I officially have a dual-modded stick but with one issue:
The guide button is broken (or rather I accidently ripped off the part of the PCB that leads the guide button for the chip). This isn’t so bad on the PS3 side of things as Start+Select = Home. Unfortunately there is no alternative on the 360 side of things.
Lessons learned from this mod:
- Use stranded wire. Solid wire is great when you only have scissors as your wire stripper, but it becomes annoying when its to stiff to move.
- Extra hands are better. More people make the mod go by faster. Although hopefully I’ll be able to do this mod on my own next time.
- Careful when dealing with the 360 PCB again. I broke my guide button when part of the wiring for the PCB broke.
Thank you for everyone that helped me though the journey. Hopefully next time I do this mod (which I plan to do), I won’t break my guide button (and actually manage to solder the Home button to it properly) and it will be a lot easier.
The ChImp also handles Start + Back = Guide.
Is it working for you?
On the 360 pcb, there’s a sort of embedded wire that connects the pin to the chip or what not. During my soldering and desodering, that embedded wire came off (don’t really know how). this pretty much destroys any chance of the guide button actually working. (Unless of course I become some sort of crazy soldering guru.
Oh I see what you mean.
I don’t know why I even typed that response.
It didn’t make sense.
Laugh.
I’m thinking you mean you lifted up the Trace when you repeated soldering and desoldering.
If you are cool, you can solder directly to the IC.
It is that big black circle thing on PCB
Or to the vias, the small holes.
I can’t show you unless there is a super high resolution scan of the PCB though.
But the points are really small and really hard to solder to.
There is also the capacitor you can solder to also.
All of the above, I am talking about making a jumper with a wire from the pin to alternate point.