Are RJ45-based PCBs adjustable?

[tripletopper]

@freedomgundam Now Paradise Arcade Shop has a licensed Cthulhu version being newly made. Plus there are Brooke Retro and PS360+. Brook Retro is an actively supported item, and now Paradise Arcade carries on the Toodles legacy. So @PAS.Timothy if you’re reading this. I don’t know if there’s anything you can do.

I still don’t understand the Xbox Prime arrangement. The obvious Xbox arrangement is:

X Y White L
A B Black R

Luckily, there is something I CAN do about it. I can put in an intermediate adapter while the signals are still in their discrete form. It might cost $30 an adapter

I can solve it myself. I would prefer a firmware solution, especially if the individual system definitions is stored in the chip and is not dependent on physical hardware. Save me $60.

I was just curious about why the Xbox One was defined the way it was. As I said, I understood the SNES layout reason. And I understand the Street Fighter-centric focus of Toodles.

But I can cope. I just have to wait a few months.

[Darksakul]

I never had a original Xbox, so I can’t comment.
Also I never like the Duke controller.

[Darksakul]

tripletopper keep in mind when you wire up your own stick, you can choose the overall layout.

Arcade buttons do come with quick disconnects crimped onto the wiring.

[tripletopper]

Exactly, while the signals are still discrete aka one-button=one signal, I can remap them easily. This a common enough remap where I’d use a DE37 F-> DE37 M pin swap adapter for SNES and Xbox Prime. Plus I’m coming up with a way to remap on a more unique basis by rerouting 3.5mm m-m cables into female holes which are wired to discrete inputs.

I would use quick connects, but they are not designed well enough to be constantly unplugging and replugging. Plus I need my holes organized in a fixed box so there’s no labels to fall off and no spaghetti strap mess to trace. So probably a 3.5 mm would work better.

Also the 3.5 mm’s would come in handy for the Edladdin Coleco PCB, because of the dual ground, it makes the corresponding signal and ground adjustable, yet married by the 3 zone connector. So if I swap L and R in right handed Tutankham (which normally starts RL based on most ambidextrous systems) they are on 2 different grounds, so the corresponding button caries over to the input.

[tripletopper]

Sorry to make this thread “wise fwom its gwave”, but I understand that @toodles ’s original intent was to be the least-fuss way to play Capcom fighters on various systems.

I understand the SNES layout, and even though Capcom ideally would have wanted an BAR arrangement, they probably assumed it’d be a better sales pitch to have the joystick work for existing SNES games that don’t have button remappability, hence the YBA

I know when Capcom and Nuby made the PS2 stick they used this arangemement:

^ R1 L1
X O R2 L2

That layout dates to the PS1 days, and the reason they chose THAT was because it was like an SNES pad layout, except they found putting heavy punch and kick on the same side was better as opposed to opposite sides on the SNES.

That time, they assumed people would buy a fighting stick JUST for Street Fighter, even though for some other games, having R1 to the left of L1 would be kind of a problem, Capcom designed the SF15 in a no fuss way to plug in a PS1/2 stick and play. hence the arrangement on the picture.

I don’t understand how, on Xbox Prime, this arrangement:

X Y Black White
A B R… L…

is used, especially considering the fact the original Capcom SF15 Joysstick has:

X Y White L
A B Black R

So I assume that the Street Fighter Xbox Pime games were designed with the Duke in mind. I don’t remember if I adjusted the controllers in either SF Anniversary, or Capcom Vs SNK 2, or whether both assumed you were using the Duke arrangement. But Capcom loved the Duke, and the control scheme fit naturally for Capcom.

So if the Duke layout was Capcom’s intent, why did @toodles change it? I have no idea why or how or if Capcom games would start the way @toodles suggests, but if the whole point was for it to work without adjustments, then Tooldes failed in that job, (unless I misremember the default arangement. But even if that were the case, didn’t most people play it in a Duke Layout and have it stored that way on their hard drive?). It seems that having 2 different settings for Duke mode and Fight stick mode is even more of a headache, than making the joystick conforming with Duke Mode.

By the way, who actually played Xbox Fighting games with the Controller S? Or did most of us ply with the Duke until we actually bought a joystick for it?

Since I don’t own a GameCube Capcom Vs SNK 2, does the default arrangement correspond well with the Toodles arrangement?

[tripletopper]

Well at least @Toodles is being consistent. I had a Jasencustoms x Brook retro boards options for wiring the Xbox Prime inconsistently.

I did a little unlrelated research on the Paradise Shop MC Cthulhu, and found this quote from @Toodles ’s main post on the forum he started:

Xbox (Select not pressed):
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: White
4P: LT
1K: A
2K: B
3K: Black
4K: RT
Start: Start
Select: Back
Home: N/A
Home + 1P : Left stick click
Home + 1K : Right stick click
Home + Stick: Left and Right analog sticks

As I see, it DOES match up nicely with the Xbox Prime’s Duke arrangement, so Toodles sorry for assuming Jasencustoms copied you perfectly, and wrongly asssuming yours was the Jasen layout.

Also I notice Turbo Grafx has Neo Geo mode, and liooked up the Neo Geo Mode onn t eh Brok adapter, and I don’t Understand one thing.

If you have an 8 button arrangement, and you aant all the buttons in a row, then shouldn’;t the default Neo Geo layout given:

A B C D

Be mapped to

QK MK HK 3K

But Instead it’s mapped to

QK QP MP HP

Why is that?

If you use QK and QP as A and B, C might be reached on MP, but the pinky will have a tough time hitting HP. I don’t understand the ergonomics by the choice. But if someone can show me how that works, I’d like to see it.

It probably needs a specially contoured controller, and my controller mapping makes more sense for my controller contour:

But then again, few people tired to make an ambidextrous controller that wasn’t a straight perfect rectangle.

[FreedomGundam]

QK QP MP HP
Thumb - Index - Middle - Ring

I don’t know about anyone else, but that’s my personal preferred way to play 4-button games on a Neo-Geo-style layout (and not Index - Middle - Ring - Pinky).

[tripletopper]

@FreedomGundam I guess if you curl your 3 fingers, it could fit that way.

But when I think of a specific “thumb button”, I specifically think of a Panasonic FZ-JS1 for 3DO.

When I saw the 3DO design in 2004 when, when I got it for $15 + $15 shipping on Ebay, I thought that was a clever way to control a 3 button game when 2 shoulder buttons. So much so when I designed my button layout in 2008 You could use Upside Down 1Up White Red, Orange and Green as L, A, B, C, and R.

By the way I noticed there are MODES for the Cthulhu for the NES and TG16 controllers, by using an unused Home button for custom mappings. Theres Punch Out Mode and Turbo Mode for NES, and there’s NeoGeo and 6 button mode for TG16. Also I noticed the Xbox Prime specified “select not held down”. What does Select held down do?

And couldn’t the home button be used for an SNES “Pre Street Fighter Joystick Mode” as a YBA mode for the fight stick?

Finally, I notice that the Xbox Prime had “Home + QK = LSB”, and “Home + QP = RSB” on the Cthulhu instead of hard wiring separate buttons. Are there also codes for DP/LS/RS for the various systems and on the Brook Universal, the capture button on the Switch?

[FreedomGundam]

I guess if you curl your 3 fingers, it could fit that way.

Not really sure what you mean, but I guess it would vary per person and their hand-size/finger-length.
My fingers rest naturally in a relaxed position with my thumb on Short, and my index-middle-ring on Jab-Strong-Fierce. That’s how I’ve always played 6-button games like Street Fighter.