It could be a bug in the USFIV game code or it could be you. If its not showing in skull girls it could just be SF being SF?
I want to say its the 9 lbs spring. it there too much lube the 9 lbs spring would just squeeze all the lube out.
Maybe it’s snagging on one of the grooves in the hayabusa pivot? I didn’t have any problems with a 2lb in the hayabusa, fwiw.
Laban
1023
It shouldn’t be because I have a spring base between the spring itself and the pivot. Oh well
UPDATE EDIT: Okay I see the issue now. The stick works “fine” and “normal” when upside down from my observation. The “skinny” part of the actuator fits into the corner of the square gate just fine. But when the stick is right side up, I notice that the lever (from the bottom end) doesn’t fully fit into each of the corners for whatever reason. When applying just enough force for the lever to stop moving when pushed into a corner, the “wide” part or upper lip of the actuator is the part that makes contact with the gate, hence why I feel like I’m not engaging easily with the corners. If I push beyond the initial stopping point, it feels like the actuator is pushed upwards so the skinny part is the one the makes contact with the gate. I don’t like doing that and obviously it’s not good. But weird part is at times, when the stick is right side up, it functions “normally.” Normal being that the lever easily reaches the corners without excess tension and rotating the lever in circles is fluid. When I don’t fully engage/touch the corners, not only is the throw shorter but rotating the stick is also more resistant and burdened.
I hope my new observations kind of helps illustrate things
More EDIT update: I’m just using the stick upright now. I’m spinning the stick around clockwise. It feels like the spring inside or whatever is being silly. Sometimes the throw is normal then I rotate enough to the point that the throw shortens and there is more friction-y resistance when I rotate the lever. Then if I keep rotating, then it normalizes again, then it un-normalizes, and so on and so forth. I guess the lever likes the spring in a certain sweet spot? Is the spring itself rotating in the assembly? Does that even matter or have an effect?
Durr. Apologies, beer talking here.
I use a kowal actuator (with the larger cylinder edges rounded down) in mine.
Laban
1025
Duly noted. Also I noticed (or to reiterate again) that the issue doesn’t occur when I’m rotating the lever while the whole assembly is upside down. Bulllllllllshitttttttt, haha. Just got to play upside down from now on
It’s pretty strange that it would function differently inverted, can’t think of a good reason why. This is grasping straws, but try removing inner dust washer.
Laban
1027
Okay, I replaced the Hayabusa stock shaft with the Link and problem solved. HURR
I’m going to experiment by changing shaft covers soon. My problem was occurring when I had a PAS Black ALU shaft cover on there. Gonna go back to Hayabusa Shaft with Hayabusa shaft cover to see if fixed.
Update: With Hayabusa lever and Hayabusa shaft cover, it works just fine. HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
NENDO
1028
Do you have a caliper @Laban? Please measure the diameter of the shaft cover. If you don’t have time, let me know. I have an aluminum shaft cover from PAS. It shouldn’t make a difference in anything.
Laban
1029
@NENDO Sorry, I don’t have a caliper. Qualitatively, the Hayabusa shaft cover is about perhaps 1-2 millimeters (QUALITATIVE) taller than the PAS ALU shaft cover. Another thing I notice is that the Hayabusa shaft cover is graduated. It’s diameter is wider towards the bottom than the top of the of the shaft cover, and I can only fit one of the sides (of course the slimmer side) into the PAS ALU Bat Top.
I have no idea how the change of shaft cover on a Hayabusa shaft could affect the actuator/spring pressure/unknown factor that affects how my lever moves.
On my Kuro VLX with my JLF assembly, I used both the Hayabusa shaft cover and PAS ALU shaft cover with the same functionality, and normal/preferred functionality (none of that tightening BS.)
The only thing I could think of now, and I don’t know if it’s an actual factor, is that perhaps the wider base of the Hayabusa shaft cover is designed to pivot optimally with the Hayabusa pivot right below it. The slimmer PAS Shaft Cover, and I’m hypothesizing other shaft covers of similar non-graduated builds, interacts with the Hayabusa shaft cover in a way that messes up my assembly. Perhaps this factor in conjunction with the weight/size/unknown factors of my PAS ALU Bat Top on top of the assembly may affect everything overall.
At this point, I don’t know anymore and my care for the matter is waning since I have resolved my issue. And I don’t have a caliper.
Thanks to everyone that responded to me and tried to help me out. It was kinda a long night.
Have you ever had a shaft cover get hung up on the inner dust washer when putting a lever back into a controller/cabinet and screwing the ball/bat top back on? You feel a lot of resistance until it pops into place, which is what I’m picturing with your description. Maybe the slightly longer Hayabusa shaft (as evidenced by the small gap between the shaft cover and balltop on a Hayabusa) coupled with the slight dimensional difference (and the other non-stock parts you’re using) in the PAS shaftcover is recreating that phenomenon as you rotate the lever.
Rufus
1031
Ah, brain fart. The analog stick pins are probably the ones in those white rectangles.
Tonight I tried replacing buttons on my madcatz fightstick pro, I’ve done it about 3 times before without a problem. Although, this time when I plugged my stick in after fixing a wiring issue it didn’t work. None of the buttons work, the lights dont come on and the stick no longer works. If anyone has experienced this or has any advice it’d be much appreciated.
Here’s some more info: I had it plugged in before it was all closed up, I might have touched a metal lead thing to a wire, but I don’t think it’d be enough to completely fry everything. Please help I don’t want to have a brick for a stick.
Fixed it, I played around with some wires and realized that one of the bunches of gray cords is pinched or something, the stick seems to only work when the bunch is in certain positions. I’ll close it up for now, but I’m sure I’ll need to replace the pcb in the near future. Has anyone done a dual mod on the fightstick Pro with a USB connector that fits in the select button slot like some of the mods I’ve seen with the TE? I can’t seem to find much in regards to dual modding on the fightstick pro.
Assuming you’re talking about a ribbon cable, it should be fine. If it gives you more problems, see if you can move it around so there’s less stress on the cable.
Dual modding the Fightstick pro is the same as dual modding anything else, here’s a great guide: Dual modding 101
That said, the easiest way to get dual compatibility would be to install a ps360+ and bypass the Pro’s electronics altogether. The USB connector you’re talking about is called a Neutrik jack, using a ps360 would also make this easier, though I would recommend drilling an additional 24mm hole rather than using the select button (with the easiest ps360 install method, you would use start+select to call up the home/guide button).
Hello everyone,
I am trying to save a cut usb cable by attaching the cut end to an RJ45 tip, following the diagram below Windows does not recognize the device and this cable was working before i cut it for stupid reasons.
Is the diagram still valid for the PS360+? I have triple checked the wire positions and crimp quality (I have tools from my network tech days). Any help is appreciated.
Yes.
You are either screwing up the RJ45 modification or your USB cable is too long and the PS360+ can’t handle it (don’t get me started on how crap that is!).
Isn’t the same diagram used in the PS360+ manual?
@gahrling Cable length is an issue aw man, I will then just use it straight to the header.
@Darksakul Yes I just plucked this out of a google search and had doubts of it’s freshness.
Thanks!
hello everybody, my first time ever posting so please forgive me if this is in the wrong section. Based off of other posts that I have seen this seems like the right place to be. I Just recently starting getting into fighting games when Injustice came out, and have been playing a lot of MKX for Xbox one. I use a Qanba Q4 stick with a CronusMAX adapter, and I am starting to really wear this thing out. Its time for an upgrade but I am at a standstill. I want to know if from anybody if you think that I should…
A. start out by modding the stick i currently have, replacing the stick, buttons, and art… gaining my experience that way…
or…
B. start out building one from the ground up, that way if there is a unforeseen problem I will still have my Qanba to fall back on…
I am stuck with this decision before I dive into my first project and any suggestions and opinions are appreciated. Thanks for reading…
- Brody - (XBL: Mr RaWwgers)
I’ve found it easier to do a mix of A and B. I’ve been replacing the parts that are just bought and connected like buttons and sticks and putting them in my regular stick to improve that currently, while at the same time doing everything to a ground up custom box except for plugging those in, until it’s ready for that point.
