From focusattack: “Tests performed on both first and next generation hardware confirmed that a 1/16” could still work with them. We are offering a 1/16" thick acrylic as an alternative, as unlike thinner plexi, will handle etching and comes in additional colors. Most notably, the button holes are sized so that the plexi rests underneath the plexi. This approach is a more common for plexi installation. Keep in mind: if you choose this plexi, and own a more recent Type N model, you will not use the button spacers any more. The spacers were designed to raise the button 1mm from the control panel surface.
In this case, the buttons will rest atop the plexi. The Generation 1 1/16" plexi fits below the existing border."
Seems right according to the above info. You have a Gen 2 which comes with a 1/40" plexi and spacers for the buttons. If you go with the 1/16" you will no longer need the spacers.
Thought I was on the right track. The thing is, I did lift up the Bezel to see what was going on with my plexi, and while there’s spacers, it’s the type that’s thinner around the edge to make the plexi flush with the bezel. thicker than 1/40. I managed to confuse myself over that, but thought I might be on the right track with the 1/16 plexi. Just needed confirmation, which you gave me. Much happier to do away with the spacers, seems like it will be more secure if the buttons are helping hold it down.
I noticed for certain Joysticks it is recommending wires from my PCB. This makes me assume that the plug for the Joystick on mine will be the same on this, but you know what they say about assuming (and I am not seeing the Happ wire listed in recommendations). I am just looking for if my assumption is right and that this would save me a little work at having to rewire the joystick itself.
Hey guys, just bought a faulty TE2+ from my corner of Europe for $40. It looks very well, like hardly ever used, internals never been tampered with, that red glue was still there and untouched.
However the cost was due to the fact that the joystick is stuck on up (as a function, not physically). I tested it around on PS4 and noticed that besides the stick constantly pressing up (left and right work too but continuous ups continue), all buttons work expect for Square, Triangle and R1. L1 works perfectly tough along with all the other buttons on it.
I bought it suspecting 99% chance of failed PCB and I liked the price because I can stick a Brook UFB and have it play on both my xbox & PS4 for under retail of a Razer Panthera.
All I want to know is if someone sees another problem in there apart from the PCB or should I be perfect with a new brook board.
Because in case I need other parts, I would rather buy it all from one shop. Nobody really sells the EZ Mod Brook UFB in Europe from my knowledge and shipping from the US is something I would rather just pay once for
Hi. I bought a brooks PS3/PS4 preinstalled fightboard pcb on focus attack about a year ago, and I’ve been having constant issues with it ever since. My main issue currently is that whenever I happen to move my joystick, I’ll randomly get the 3xp or 3xk buttons to activate, which are not connected to any button on my stick, as Im using a 6 button layout. My question is, is there a way to fix this? Should I buy a new spare harness from focus attack? Is this an issue with the PCB itself? Should I cut the 3xp and 3xk buttons (if this can solve the issue)?
so im wondering about what connector i need to buy for my HORI RAP Silent Hayabusa stick.
I previously cut the connector off to solder it to another stick but I want to put it back.
Im pretty certain it’ll be either one of these
since im in australia and itll take a while so just hoping someone could clarify for me before i buy these and wait for them to get here.
Hello there folks, currently trying to build my bartop for kicks. I’ve decided on a Seimitsu LS-40 stick but would like to mount an octogonal restrictor on it, similar to the Sanwa GT-Y (that is, not “floaty”, well-define angles that don’t go much in the way but give an effect somewhat similar to a Gamecube joystick).
Any idea where I could find that? I can 3D print stuff if needed.
LS-40 and LS-32 share restrictor gate measurements. Be careful with this thing though, as a review states that it marrs the actuator over time. Have you had a lot of experience with square (standard) gates? If not, I suggest you just give the standard square gates some time. I—like I’m sure many here—went with octagonal gates due to the initial awkwardness of a square gate (at least to those used to Suzo Happ/IL “Murican-style” controls). However, I—like I’m sure many here—have reverted back to square. It’s overall more efficient. I suggest you give it a (thorough) go before ordering that Kowal crap.
I second this. My first (used) stick had a octagonal restrictor. It felt good, at the time, I thought that was the best restrictor. Then bought a brand new stick tat obviously comes with square gate. And I don’t notice any difference, I can do any input with no problem, and it’s even better for dp inputs. I’ll never change to any other restrictor.
Hey guys, I’ve been trying to find a D plate to mount a GX 12 onto. I know Jasen makes a kit, but I’m starting to think that he makes the plates himself because I cannot find one at all
I tried stepping into the octagon. Stayed in for about 2 weeks and decided I liked being a square more. Turns out it didn’t help my QCF and Z motions be more accurate as I thought it would.
Also when using square gate for FIGHTERS riding the gate sucks. I can imagine for games like MVC with constant super jumps etc it’s hard not to. But generally you shouldn’t be doin it, it just makes your reactions slower/return to neutral awkward/inputs inaccurate…I remember when I first started fixing my bad stick habits(no homo), the biggest improvement in my actual game came from just relying on the feedback from the switches and making my motions smaller. It’s definitely something you have to be aware of till it becomes second nature to not rely on the gates. I haven’t found much of a difference playing on octagonal as well after practicing this.
Recently I bought a plexi panel from focusattack. The panel I got was a little different than what I was used to… a little more bendable and rubbery. I think this has to do with making the plexi more shock absorbent, which is cool but now there are places on my stick that are raised. Unfortunately when messing with buttons and trying to get it to settle the plexi actually ripped so now I’ll need to buy a new panel.
Years ago I purchased a panel from arts hobbies (http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/) and the type of plexi I received was hard plastic. Yes, it’s probably much more susceptible to cracking but I’m very careful with my sticks and I’d much prefer that vs. the bendable plexi I recently purchased. So my question is, does anyone know if arts hobbies also transitioned into the more flexible/shock proof kind of plexi? Or do they still use hard plastic? I submitted the question last week but I haven’t gotten a response yet.
I need help in getting a legit Arcade Stick for the Dreamcast. I am complete novice on the subject.
I’m a very casual 2D fighting fan, but really geek out over hardware like proper arcade stick set up. I’ve been wanting to collect some of the King of Fighters games for Dreamcast, but my worry is that the best official arcade stick (Agetec) does not have a layout which suits a traditional SNK layout.
Someone just recently mentioned to me a PS360+, which (as my simple mind gets it) is some type of board you can hook up to arcade sticks to allow them to work with Dreamcast and other systems. In searching though, it looks like this thing is sold out everywhere.
How does this thing work? Is there anyway for someone like me (with absolutely zero electronics/DIY/building knowledge or skill) to utilize this to use a legit stick with the Dreamcast? Does anyone just sell custom sticks that are compatible with Dreamcast?
