I have a question about the history of the sanwa jlf, is true it was made for virtua fighter?
Merry Christmas SRK.
So my stick is starting to pick up a few scratches. That made me think about how many scratches it could get in the future, I donāt want it to be too scratched, it can really be quite annoying. I was wondering if there is any way I could take them off. Just the ones that are on the surface. I know there are big hits I canāt take off.
I posted this in the hangout thread (and subsequently moved it here), but I apparently am in need of a cable door for my Obsidian since the one that came with the unit snapped a hinge; and from the looks of things the only makers of the door are Qanba themselves. Will the following work with the obsidian?
It really depends what the scratches are in (the material the scratches are in) and how deep are their.
Light scuffs and such in plastic can be polished out with products like NOVUS Plastic Polish
For very deep scratches and cuts, you have to use a filler and cover over with something like paint.
An Intresting product you can get is a pen for cars that fix scuffs. Itās not perfect but good it there deep, and you could then use the plastic polish after.
I hate cable doors on premium sticks. Have you considered drilling a hole, putting a USB neutrik in there and not using the cable door again? You could glue the door in place
Yes yes, scuffs, in plastic, that is the ones I would like to take off.
I know that deep scratches or hits cannot be fixed easily.
I like those doors. They look good, but feel pretty cheap tho. Is it hard to make a proper cable door?
For light scuffs, start with Novus 2 and a microfiber cloth. Finish up with the polish (Novus 1)
They are what they are, just curious if itās the hinge that has broke? That seems to be what goes on the doors. A few years back, I took a friends mayflash, added 2 n52 magnets where the clip for door is and glued them in place. Canāt remember what we used for a new (part of a keyring or something) handle but it worked nicely
This feels like a dumb question, but here we go. Iāve got a stick with a Brook PS3/4 board in it. When I hook it to a PC, it reads as an Xbox 360 controller. If I wanted to get a Brook adapter to use it with a Switch, Iād get the PS4 to Switch converter, right? I only ask because I donāt know what the board āthinksā itās connected to if itās plugged into a converter and a Switch, so I donāt know if it would be recognized as a PS or Xbox controller. As far as I can tell, this board doesnāt support holding a button to force it into being recognized as a certain thing (other than firmware update mode), so Iād like to be sure before ordering my converter.
Thanks for taking the time to answer. Iāve been lurking for years, you guys are crazy useful.
The brook Brook PS3/4 board defaults over to Xinput compatibility for PC, and it mimics a Xbox 360 controller when it really isnāt
If you got the Brook Universal Fight board, PS3, PS4, Xbox 360 (Xinput), Xbox One and Switch (pokken Pad) are all supported
Button lighting question.
Iām going to get a Panzer 3 case with the 6-button front panel in the new year. Iām thinking about potentially using LEDs and clear 24mms on the front to elegantly display player number and turbo status lights through the buttons. I will also be putting solid artwork inserts inside them. That leads me to the Seimitsu PS-14-DN-K Clears, which would be OK for this.
But what would be really nice for my build would be the PS-14-DN-C Solid Body buttons, also with the clear cap for artwork inserts. Iām going for a classic look and I donāt think fully clear buttons can do that. Not to mention that I donāt care at all for the brightness level that an illuminated clear button gives off. I want something more subtle.
Iād like to know if anyone has experience with solid body/clear cap buttons, and whether anyone has tried to position the LED so that the clear cap portion of the button is illuminated through the solid housing of the button and how that might look. I believe there is a hole on the screw portion of the solid body that might let an LED light shine through into where the clear cap is, which would bounce up through to the top of the clear cap and achieve the level of lighting I want. That would be the most ideal solution for me.
Cool. So youāre saying that for converter purposes, it wouldnāt be mimicing a 360 controller in that way, right? The Brook PS3/PS4 to Switch adapter is my huckleberry? Iām not really looking to swap out my whole PCB, since Iām using this stick mostly with PC and a little with PS4, but would like to have something for when friends with Switches want to play the SF collection in a few months.
Again, I appreciate your time.
has anyone used usb 3.0 cables for their sticks? a friend asked about using 2.0 vs 3.0 but i dont know much about usb standards so idk.
thanks in advance.
It really depends on your PCB.
So far as I know on the market, all the PCBs in sticks out there are USB 1.1 or USB 2.0 devices and get no benefit from USB 3.0
USB 1.1 devices does not work with USB 3.0 ports as USB 3.0 is not compatible with USB 1.1
Also USB 3.0 cables cost more because of the extra wiring that isnāt used by USB 2.0
Has anyone tried to take apart a Hori Mini Gamepad for PS4? Would it be a cheaper alternative to pad hack that or just buy the Brook PS4/PS3 PCB?
hey guys, this is what the outside plug of my stick looks like.
Just wondering what sort of cable I should get to plug this into my PC. Obviously one side needs to be a USB A Male (to plug into PC), i guess the other end needs to be USB B male, to plug into this outlet? I guess Iāll probably shoot for about 3 meters right?
Sorry if this is a simplistic question, but I just want to make sure Iām understanding this properly.
Yes, usb a to b. The length of the cable is up to you.
howdy.
anyone know where i can get an rj-45 to nes/snes cable or if anyone knows how to make one?
looking to connect my ps360+ to some old nintendo consoles.
Thanks!
The confusion for this comes from an rj-45 being an industry standard adaptor, but obviously snes to rj-45 isnāt industry standard.
You just need to wire up both ends parallel (The rj45 and the patch panel aka rj45 neutrik).
Iām studying Network engineering at uni so part of one of my papers was just on cabling .
Just remember the rj45 has nothing to do with Ethernet cables until you use it as a termination device, as gamers have shown it works as a great USB termination device