Yes. I’ve got PAS Little Kahuna Pads in mine. I use the buttons for Menu/Coin/Vol functions on my Picade (which means I don’t use them much). As the travel on the 30mm Hayabusas is short (very short), it doesn’t make them feel that great (kinda wobbly).

Hey got a quick question that I haven’t been able to find an answer or material to. I’m modding a wii tvc stick but I can’t find a pin diagram or picture to show the locations of the turbo and home on the pcbs back.Can anyone show/tell me the points?

Is the J-Stik on ultimarc an actual Sanwa JLW or a clone?

Clone, a very close clone

Has anyone tried zippy switches in a Hayabusa for a silent mod? Getting an optical Hayabusa from arcade shock is expensive (>100 CAD after shipping) so if I can save a few bucks while still getting a mostly silent hayabusa I’d rather go the zippy method

I have them in my jlf I can’t remember if the mounting is identical, but ull probably need to do some.soldering to get the original switches out.

Zippys have a lot of play that you will definitely feel the longer throws. I uploaded some videos if you search youtube on how to modify Zippys.

After modifying the actuate very quickly and are still just as silent.

So… I’ve got a pertinent question:

Is there any way that we can make this:

A. Bold (100%)
B. Italic
C. Underlined
D. Color-cycle
E. Blink/Flash
F. All of the above
???

We do have this

http://i.imgur.com/TgYBVkl.png

The sticked thread with the RULES inside with the words in bold READ FIRST

Apparently people are blind to this.

If you are referring to the Gamerbridge gb-13, that been transferred here over from General Discussions.
Which is a whole other bag of worms.

Maybe the entire title should be made bold then? Coz it ain’t workin’
And nope, I’m not referring to that transferred thread. I’m referring to the list of question threads that keeps growing…
And growing…
And GROWING!

But after m

You can’t fix stupid. The sooner you accept that the easier your time here will be. It just takes some moderator level of management if you want to see some immediate change. Restricted user rights for new accounts comes to mind. It would force all the new users to use the dedicated question threads instead of creating new ones.

I think you’re really on to something here!

Can’t be done now on Vanilla, but on long ago it used to be New accounts are forced to only post to the Newbie Dojo until certain criteria was meet.

jopamo, just don’t get too pushy with the new guys. You can get infracted for going too far.

Does anybody know the difference between JLF switches and JLW switches?

The JLF uses omron switches, usually soldered to a PCB.
The JLW used a completely different brand switch, they have levers and is individually tabbed

https://www.focusattack.com/sanwa-ms-o-2-187-fastener-micro-switch/ Are these JLW switches or just levered JLF switches? Is there a way to find out the engage force? I want to get levered JLF switches, this is why i’m asking

Those are JLW switches for all intensive purposes. (Albet a aftermarket replacement), The originals had the name Sanwa molded right into the body of the switch.
Those are not even the right brand to be JLF switches. The JLF uses Omron brand switches with no lever and a red plunger (see photo below).

The switches on this link is an aftermarket switch and not even Omron. I search for the part number V-J16-1C25-002. They are made and sold by a Chinese company Hangzhou Lingyue Science Technology Co., Ltd

As you see those switches don’t match these switches on the TP-MA assembly

Thanks

How do you guys approach cutting holes into the side of arcade stick cases? Example: adding more 24mm holes for push buttons?

I have a dremel with different attachments as well :slight_smile:

I just take my hand drill with 24mm forstner bit and go to town. I’m sure there are better methods though.

That what I use.

An alternative is using a step bit.