4161

Hey, I have a question about stick PCBs. I have a Tatsunoko vs Capcom Wii stick that has since been modded with the PCB of a RAP V3 SA. However, I think that that the part that connected to the turbo area was ripped apart by the friend who gave me the PCB a couple of years ago, so I have no home button and Select+Start shortcut doesn’t do it either.

I wanted the stick to work on ps4 (without legacy) and was willing to buy a brook adapter but without a home button, it’s useless. What can I do about it? Is there any way to hard-connect the home button solder the home button back or will I have to buy a new pcb? If so, what are my best options? I’d like the stick to remain PS3-compatible though that’s not a real necessity, is there a good dual/PS4-only PCB I can buy? Thanks guys :slight_smile:

4162

alright so i pretty much did the worst thing ever, i think i used too much flux and the signal for the button i needed is completely ripped off. all thats left is a nub. is there anything i can do to save it? its an old stick and i really don’t want to lose this button, since well…its the home button. i could wire it to turbo in the absolute worst case scenario but I’m trying not to do that:
i.imgur.com/7bOBp6Q.jpg

4163

Perhaps you could trace the line back further and solder directly to it.

4164

is there anything special i need to do? its a rubber dome button that sits in a panel. so i wanna be able to use that button. can i just solder to the trace part or do i have to do anything specific?

4165

Could you provide a wider picture with a better demonstration as to what you were trying to do?

4166

it was one of the leads on this PCB, which is under the rubber dome buttons. PS button is the one that got blown out. [details=Spoiler]

http://i.imgur.com/TjzKkRx.jpg

[/details]
i was trying to solder a wire from that to the home button on my FC4. in doing so, i put way too much flux or something, and i ended up ripping out the lead for a button i very much need. i’ve heard of people soldering straight on to the tiny part that leads up to the actual button but is there anything special i should do? my only guess is a tiny bit of solder, make sure not to make a bridge and hot glue the fuck out of it once i know it works?

4167

Any idea how I could extend the battery life on a dualshock 4? It’s a pad hack so the battery doesn’t need to fit in the controller. Would this work: https://www.adafruit.com/product/353 ?

4168

So I recently won a Virtua Stick HS-0136 and am planning to dual mod it with a ZD PS2 board. The procedure I hear is to connect the two ground points and the two +5V points. Is it safe to do that? It might be easier than doing it with the 3V point on the PS2 line.

4169

There’s a spot on the back of the pcb you could solder to. Also, any time you’ve got a trace like that, you can expose it and solder directly to it. It will take some precision though.

https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSlLg_nSJAB-BEwIMUOphrskBtU6Mt4AfrEmW_HO-9UJhtObMAM

4170

The ps2 compatible zd isn’t common ground, unfortunately. MC cthulhu or a pad hack is your best bet in that case.

4171

i’ll give it a try. should i try to do the lowest gauge wire i have or does it not matter?

4172

Anyone have a guide on the PS1 namco stick?

4173

Yes, smaller is better in this case.

4174

What are you trying to do with it?

4175

Button/stick replacement
Some funky plastic holds the stick in place.
I’d like to dual mod it though for PS1/2 and Dreamcast.

I really just need something to figure out how to get the stick in place.

4176

http://www.kowal.itcom.pl/ArcadeParts_pliki/modNAMCOen.htm

Skip the bit about reconnecting the original pcb. You can use standard qd’s by bending the pins outward.

Also, I’d suggest a mc cthulhu with the Rj45 setup in your case.

4177

so I know the the difference between the hrap3 and hrap3 sa is the buttons and the artwork. I wanna know if I peel off the artwork in the regular one I’ll be left with the same polished metal as the sa under the plexy?

4178

Thanks El Presidente. I’ll just get the $12 Zero Delay PCB from Focusattack in my next order.

4179

https://utormq.dm2302.livefilestore.com/y3pZieDfjCsILtVEIewr9F_LnPgFU2zVP6WyCovipD0pnHoPWghvbicJYrJDp1op8PDh0TLuqonKEA0AUlIqy-zP4b3B5Il4zpgcn8Wk7mk6RaZEMptCfMXC79GGc32solh3hpHa9pFPeetnd5ZWbvViQ/WP_20160411_21_17_02_Pro_LI.jpg

I found this in our controller bin the other day. I set it up with joytokey and played a few rounds of killer instinct with it. I don’t know if this is the right place to post this or not, but has anyone tried this? If they have, how does the dpad compare to say a brawlpad? I thought it was spectacular(compared to xbox one or 360). Heck, I could even say it was better than the pdp fightpads I own(except using guide and plus as lp and lk). I’m sure after rockband 3 flopped, we can see alot of these in the wild. For some reason this screams franken-fightpad. Rtdzign style. Again, what are your thoughts on this hidden gem(at least the dpad in my eyes)?

EDIT: The image isn’t loading, but it is the rock band 3 midi pro adapter. Specifically, the one with the black dpad. (There are two models.)

4180

Already asked on the TE2 topic but maybe more people will see this. Has anyone ever encountered this problem on the TE2+ ?

I’m mainly using it on PC, I’ve tried unplugging, switching to PS3 and re-installing the drivers but nothing works.
By chance I managed to unlock it once (just a random press for the sake of testing) and couldn’t lock it back. Then I tried unplugging it and plugging it back, it went back to lock by default.

I suspect some dirt slipped between the button and the PCB making the button mis-functioning . When it was unlocked, I had no issue with the LS/DP/RS toggle that worked flawlessly.

I will try it on PS4 tonight at a friend’s house to see if this is PC related, but my hopes are quite low.

Any suggestions on why it is happening (please don’t tell me MCZ is crap) ?