My MKX pad will be arriving on Wednesday. I’ll be padhacking it in PS4 mode and sticking it into an SE shell.

  1. How do I wire the board up so that the LS DP RS switch acts as the PS3/PS4 switch?
  2. I’m assuming that as long as the Turbo board is powered and grounded, the lock switch will lock the Home button when toggled. How do I wire the start and select buttons to lock them as well?
  3. Can I wire my button grounds to the USB ground without any problems?
  4. Any other general tips to help me not waste $37 by breaking the board? This is my first time gutting a pad and padhacking it and I wanna make sure I do everything properly.

How do you use a headset and chat while playing with a stick not a controller?

USB headset

will a 2.0 light up usb cords give me any input lag for my brooks pcb? thanks in advance

Really?! I might as well ask if having half a tank of gas in my car would cause input lag.

@aszyd kind of cut throat I was ignorant but thanks

Only Blue LED Cords lag. The Red LED cords make your stick faster. Red lights is for speed blue are for PC cooling.
Unless your cord uses EL ligth strips, then if you can vissibily see the flow, the faster the lights go the less it lags.
If it starts to slow down that means the whole stick is corrupted and every part, the PCB, the buttons, joystick and even parts of the plastic case and the case art will cause serious lag.

See how ridiculous that all sounds? So was your question.
There is no such thing as something magically making your stick lag.
The whole stick lag craze is complete bull shit and you need to stop taking stock of what it says.

Any reviews for te2+ yet?

I’m currently in the process of using a Hori mini 4 pcb as the brains for my Madcatz SC5 TE. I soldered the USB to the board but when I plugged it into my PC I wasn’t getting any signal. The weird thing is when I used the multi meter (set to 200m volts) the pc would then recognize that something was plugged in but stated that something was wrong with the device I plugged in and that windows had disconnected the device. here are pictures of the the soldering ive done so far. another oddity is that I’m not using the usb that came with the hori I’m using a different USB and it only has 1 ground wire. I have a VERY limited knowledge of electricity lol. At this point I assume the I fired the board (because I’m an idiot) but I figured before I trash the board I would post this here and hopefully you guys could help (couldn’t figure out how to post lmagine in the post so here are links https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B39vmuexxrz-SG41LTBaMTVZMVhpSklaRTJheE1pQThxWThj/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B39vmuexxrz-R21IRURyMmpKZmJ1NVNpLWFCMS02Z2oxa0Nr/view?usp=sharing

Since it’s bound to come up again, Capcom has stated that Direct Input controller support will be added to the PC release of SFV soon. http://steamcommunity.com/app/310950/discussions/0/405691491125743363/

  1. Take mode signal and wire to LS. If you’re dual modding, use a diode or else your other side will use LS no matter what you have it switched to.
  2. Yes, You need to wire the ground for start/select to the lock switch gnd. What system was your SE for and did it lock S/S already or just home?
  3. Yes
  4. If dual modding, you need to use diodes. Don’t cross 5v and GND. Don’t mix 3.3v and GND.

Does this board works with sfv on ps4?

  1. No dual mods; just the pad by itself and the two systems it supports, so no diodes needed. By “wire to LS” you mean the point labeled L Stick on this picture, right?
  1. It’s a TVC Wii SE with the PCB taken out and a 360 Round 2 TE turbo board in its place. The actual TE board is in another stick; I had no use for the turbo board. Where’s the lock switch GND on the turbo board? It’s the turbo board from the 360 MVC2 TE if that matters.
  2. Thanks
  3. What about with the actual soldering? Any necessary precautions there?

Anyone know where I can buy a phreakmod link lanyard?

I have a bunch.

Cool! Can you sell separate from the link?

Yes, just shoot me a PM.

Nice one, cheers.

  1. Yes
  2. KGND is one of the points behind the actual lock switch. Since you’re using a round 2, I don’t have that info handy but if you have a meter or just want to give it a shot you shouldn’t hurt anything soldering to random points behind the switch (there’s like 3).
  3. Np
  4. Nope.

Dumb question but I’m trying to use my Q4 again but getting frustrated by bybthe same issue: the shaft and ball spin freely with little movement, and the white circle plate covering also spins up and down and moves freely. Is there a problem with my stick (came this way) or, like I think I saw in the Qanba thread, it is supposed to do this?