Gonna use a standalone PS4 padhack, so that won’t be a problem. Thanks!

Get a .187 to 5-pin converter cable from etokki for ease of installation
Use a soldered daisy chain to save money (assuming you have a soldering iron, solder and wires handy).
Or daisy chain the old fashioned way (with crimping .187 QDs).

dont have a soldering iron anymore, long story.

Spoiler

oops

They didn’t in the beta, though that is subject to change possibly (given that d-input should be in the PC release). I do know that it worked perfectly with X360CE, which changed the d-inputs from the HFC4 to x-inputs without any lag.

My stick is a Hori RAP V3-SA (“Kai”) model. I bought it a couple of years ago and it came with a pre-installed Sanwa JLF stick as is standard in those sticks.

It feels considerably worse for wear these days compared to some of the newer sticks I’ve played with. I can describe is as a muddy feeling. If I slowly push away in all directions, it feels like the up direction requires a little more force, which I think accounts for the mushy feeling.

I had a friend who is into hardware check it out at an event recently and he agreed with me (without me saying anything about it) that it feels more resistant when pushing it up than in other directions. His suggestion was to clean it, so yesterday I took it apart, cleaned all of the bits with warm soapy water, lubricated the pivot, and put it back together.

It feels better just because it’s cleaner, but I still feel more resistance (slightly) when pushing up. It doesn’t seem to make any sense to me, but I don’t think it’s the imagination of two people, lol. Could it be a problem with the microswitch, or the spring? If so, is it better to just replace the whole unit? I’ve kind of been eyeing the Hori Hayabsua.

BTW, has anyone used the Hori Hayabusa extensively? How do you like it?

This one won’t: http://www.play-asia.com/fighting-commander-4/13/708jrd
This one will: http://www.play-asia.com/fighting-commander-for-playstation-4-playstation-3/13/709efx

Second one has a PS4/PS3/PC switch.

just got a mad catz brawl stick for $41 on amazon and I wanted to know if you can fit a hayabusa lever in it. I should’ve asked this before but I didn’t wanna lose out on that deal. anyone know? thanks in advance.

I don’t think it does. Let me check.

EDIT: Can confirm it does not. The Turbo PCB gets in the way of the Hayabusa’s body.

You will have to rotate the stick and rearrange the joystick harness, the pcb gets in the way.

I should’ve been more specific I’m sorry. I’m getting parts to make/mod the stick. I have a hori fc4 which I’m padhack and put it in the brawl stick which so I can always move the pcb do it doesn’t get on the way. I wanted to know if out was deep enough to fit the hayabusa lever since that thing is huge. thanks @PresidentCamacho @SHSL_Street_Fighter

Shouldn’t be aproblem, the brawl/SE/TvC are plenty deep, deep enough for the Crown 303-FK.

Last question before i start building, is Neutrik the standard? i don’t see anything but that brand for that kind of product on focus attack or paradise.

Switchcraft is another brand that makes panel passthroughs and, in my opinion, make higher quality products. You can find them on Amazon.

i recently bought a hori rap 4 kai and i was wondering how i would be able to change the artwork underneath the plexi? im new to modding and cant find a video anywhere on how to do it, any help would be fantastic

Hrap 4 Kai doesn’t have a plexi, you can buy a plexi and art for it from www.tek-innovations.com

There no “plexy” with the stock art. That plastic laminate coating is part of the art. Peel the art off and that laminate comes off with it.
If you change the art you have to provide your own Plexy for the art.

There is no secret, you peel the art off the metal panel. You are 99% likely will ruin the original art pulling it off.

You can preserve it pretty well if you heat it up with a hair dryer first.

Even then, I couldn’t guarantee it would be successful. Their also the issue of storing the original art.

Is there a sure way to identify if a button really is authentic Sanwa? There is only one arcade parts store in my country and I am unsure to what point I can trust on their word that the buttons they are selling are truly Sanwa.

Also, should I expect the buttons to come with any kind of wire or anything aside from just the actual button?

Appreciate it.

1 - Should say “Sanwa” at the bottom of the button.

2 - No