Beta only works with xinput, you can use xpadder. Retail is pretty much guaranteed to support direct input,if not immediately then soon thereafter.

And the zd encoder will not work on ps4, for the record.

My stick is already working on my pc.
On Ps4 only my buttons work everything is perfect except for the joystick it doesnt do anything -.-
Just wondered if i could play with it on my ps4 cuz i bought a copy of sfv today on ps4 and steam is playable on sunday night in my region -.-

It’s strange that the buttons are working, honestly. I suppose it’s possible that lab zero has updated the driver for more compatibility, but mine (zd encoder) would not work at all with usf4 on ps4. Still, if the joystick works on pc, it’s wired correctly. The mode button toggles between pov hat (analog signal) and joystick signal (D pad) on pc, I guess you could try that. It functions as the home button on ps3, but who knows with this setup.

what do u mean with toggles between this two setting methods? I think mine is dpad only on my pc.
I know its so strange that the buttons get detected but the joystick isnt…

I have a sanwa jlf … if this has anything to do with this …

Yes, the earlier TE2s have the cheap, thin, flexible, scratch magnet trash that MCZ shamelessly used on their sticks for a long time.

Thankfully, the Chun TE2 uses a quality plexi that actually has some thickness to it. It’s probably the best stick product Mad Catz has pumped out since the first Chun TE which had a great top panel as well. It’s really gorgeous and I hope the TE2+ uses the same one.

@kex542 what stick do you have?
if it has dpad left stick (ls) try the 2 of them

@BLK_Taz i have a custom build stick with zd encoder (pcb)

Go to your device manager and look up joystick properties. You will be able to test your buttons and directions. Pressing the mode switch will toggle between direction modes. The jlf doesn’t have anything to do with it.

i have no mode switch on my custom stick

You can temporarily connect one of your buttons to the mode connector on the pcb. Just unplug one of them(remember where you unplugged it from) from the pcb and plug it into the mode connector on the pcb.

Another experiment you could try is connecting one of your buttons to one of the ā€œhapp directionalā€ connections on the pcb to see if that button now makes you move that direction.

If you don’t know which connections are which, here’s a diagram(assuming you have the basic zero delay pcb): cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server500/d90a4/products/1271/images/7147/ZEROPLUS_SCHEMA__45772.1446855018.1280.1280.PNG?c=2

i already did the second thing u suggested but i didn’t know that i can switch modes by simply pushing the button when connected to the mode port on the pcb.
I will try it tommorow and tell u guys if it worked. Its 5am at my place now and my copy is at a friends house who plays with a controller cuz i couldnt play at all and dont want to play with a controller :disappointed:

Cool, I’ll be pretty curious if it works. I built a stickless with the basic zero delay pcb a couple weeks ago, but haven’t had an opportunity to mess with it on a ps4 yet.

So I’m buying a Real Arcade Pro. 3 for personal use, and modding practice. I know it’s a pretty good first timer stick and its friendly to most mods. Does a Korean joystick fit into this? and also are there any other sticks that are super friendly to mods that accept a korean joystick? Sorry for flooding the board with questions in the past 24 hours or so :stuck_out_tongue: im new.

You have its backwards, its not that there Arcade controllers that are Korean part friendly, is that there Korean Joysticks that come with Japanese type joystick mounts.
They typical Japanese parts stick would never cannot accommodate most Korean Joysticks without some serious mods.

There are arcade controllers designed for Korean Parts, they are hard to get in the US and Europe

You want the Crown CWJ-303FK or Crown CWL-307 (Japanese mount version)

Check out our Korean parts thread for more info

Trying to change Player LED color on Madcatz TE (V.S.) Turbo PCB.

Any ideas on where the negative and positive points would be and which LEDs to buy?

Thanks.

@OUT51D3R dude I love u it fuckin works everything works now just had to switch the mode like u said it and everything works perfectly fine awesome thank u so much.

Now it’s time to grind sfv :blush:

That’s awesome @kex542!

Just to be clear(as there’s a few different Zero Delay pcbs), is this the pcb in your stick? http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server500/d90a4/products/1271/images/7149/DSCF0172__60431.1446855019.1280.1280.jpg?c=2

That’s the one I’m using, and it’d make me happy to hear I’ll be able to use it on ps4!

My theory on what’s happening(though I’m not able to test it at the moment): The mode button is changing the function of the joystick connections on ps3, just like it does on pc. In one of the modes, it’s sending the joystick inputs to the ps3 as dpad inputs, and in the other it’s sending as analog stick inputs. The Lab Zero driver in SF5 for PS4 only supports either the analog or dpad for whatever specific ps3 device the ZD encoder is masquerading as(I’m guessing dpad).

All of the above should be taken as untested theory, but it would explain what is going on.

Are you having to use an actual ps4 controller to sign in? And yes, it would be very helpful to know which version of the zd you’re using. Perhaps the pc/ps3 model has worked all along, I only treated the ps2/ps3/pc model on usf4 (ps4).

Guys I got the hrap4 Kai a few days ago. It’s my first non sanwa stick and I feel it makes weird clicking noises. I’m not sure if it’s defective. I made 2 videos of the noise. Can you guys see if this is normal.

I hear it more when moving the stick slightly down or to the left.

https://youtu.be/NG6LC5jQIOs

https://youtu.be/-2MhjvqDub0