Thanks jdm714.
So I supose that modding the Cat Matz SE with you own picture is imposible, no?
I’m going to change the Jostick too, but I don’t understand the differences between the Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y, JLF-TP-8YT, JLF-TP-8YS, JLF-TP-8Y-SK, JLF-TP-8YT-SK and JLF-TP-8YS-SK
Which of them is the best choice for a SE?
Does somebody know a video that explains exactly how to mod the SE?
Not impossible.
Just print, laminate, then stick.
All Sanwa JLF are the same; some just have different suffix to show what is added on.
Here the six variations listed in Sanwa Catalog ('07~'08):
JLF-TP-8 is Base JLF.
JLF-TP-8Y is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90°.
JLF-TP-8T is Base JLF with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8YT is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90° with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8S is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90° with JLF-P-1S (S Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8Y-SK is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90° with JLF-CD (Shaft Cover).
Of course other variations can be done too:
JLF-TP-8-SK, JLF-TP-8T-SK, JLF-TP-8S-SK, JLF-TP-8YT-SK.
I’ll just add this for completeness, since it is JLF:
JLF-TM-8 can do; JLF-TM-8T, JLF-TM-8T-SK, JLF-TM-8S, JLF-TM-8S-SK.
You can use any of those.
JLF-TP-8 you will rotate PCB and use stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate or buy Sanwa JLF-P-1.
JLF-TP-8Y you will use stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate or buy Sanwa JLF-P-1 to mount in Case.
JLF-TP-8T you will rotate PCB and just pop into the Case after removing stock Mad Catz Joystick.
JLF-TP-8YT you will just pop into the Case after removing stock Mad Catz Joystick and mount in Case.
JLF-TP-8S you will remove JLF-P-1S, rotate PCB and use stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate or buy Sanwa JLF-P-1.
(I’m just explaining for some. There are of course more variations.)
You see that I did not mention anything with [SK]?
That is because it is nothing to how Sanwa JLF fit into Mad Catz Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick?.
It is just a Shaft Cover; there for looks.
Once you have a JLF in your hands, rotating the PCB can be done in only five seconds.
It is super easy.
Here is removing Restrictor Gate.
[media=youtube]L67fUfH3S5o[/media]
Here is rotating of PCB.
[media=youtube]dIgCEpBEhng[/media]
If want save money, and shop you are buying from has JLF-TP-8Y cheaper than JLF-TP-8YT, then get JLF-TP-8Y.
Just use the stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate.
But if you don’t want to do the work of unscrewing the stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate off, then buy JLF-TP-8YT.
Some shops sell JLF-TP-8YT with Mounting Plate not pre-installed, so you may have to screw it on yourself.
But if you will be screwing on Mounting Plate, might as well start out with JLF-TP-8Y right?
But installing a Mounting Plate requires taking apart Joystick.
So might as well start out with JLF-TP-8 right?
That doesn’t matter though, as I don’t think I’ve seen shop with JLF-TP-8, just JLF-TP-8Y.
Rotating PCB very simple and quick though.
You want the exact variation of Sanwa JLF that Mad Catz Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick? has?
JLF-TP-8YT.
Even more exact?
JLF-TP-8YT-W; that just means White Ball Top.
You want the exact variation of Sanwa JLF that Mad Catz Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick? Tournament Edition has?
JLF-TP-8YT-SK.
Even more exact?
JLF-TP-8YT-SK-W; that just means White Ball Top.
So, choose which you want.
Choose on how much you want to spend.
Choose on how much work you want to do.
And one last thing to end this Post.
If you will be reusing the stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate, just reuse the screws.
And also, the screws need something to hold onto; they grab on the nuts.
These nuts are located in the stock Mad Catz Joystick.
After you remove the Restrictor Gate, lift off the Joystick PCB.
Underneath, you will then see the four nuts the screws are threading into.
But if for some reason you do not want to reuse the screws and nuts, you can go out to buy.
There is known problem for the screws to strip really super easy.
Get some M3 (3mm) screws of .5mm Pitch at length of 8 or 10mm.
SRK Member MnShredder recommend 8mm because it seems 10mm touch the PCB.
For the nuts, get M3 (3mm) of .5mm Pitch.
If you are not reusing stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate, and just using the one provided with Sanwa JLF, then it’s cool.
And because I feel you will ask about this also if it happens:
The Restrictor Gate on stock Mad Catz Joystick is on super tight.
So you will need assist with tool to remove; a screwdriver or something.
^God of SRK.
EDIT: Video: [media=youtube]m4Ha2uphm38&feature=player_embedded[/media]
Uses Seimitsu parts, but Sanwa is essentially the same.
so im about to buy a new sanwa joystick for my stick, but lizardlick sells the joysticks and balltops seperately. Do i really need to buy the balltop or will the one that the SE stick came with work with the sanwa joystick?
Do not need to unless you want different color.
k thx
Thanks again jdm714
I’m going to buy the JLF-TP-8YT, it will be easier to mod than the others.
Is the restricter of the JLF-TP-8YT octogonal, or it only has 4 directions?
Um,I was wondering,can I dual mod my hrap3 to work with ps2?I do have spare ps1 and 2 pads so if its possible could someone give me some instructions or link to tutorial for that,because I couldn’t find any.
All Sanwa JLF come with Square default.
And Square is 8-Way.
It is same as the Joystick in your Mad Catz.
Yes you can.
But use the PlayStation, not PlayStation 2.
I can’t give you any links.
Because all Dual Mods are the same.
Just look up your Controller on slagcoin to see the solder points.
http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_wiring.html#PCB_DIAGRAMS
And look at this picture.
Just connect Directions of PlayStation PCB to HRAP PCB.
Just connect Action Buttons of PlayStation PCB to HRAP PCB.
Just connect Ground of PlayStation PCB to HRAP PCB.
Just connect +3.3V of PlayStation PCB to +5V of HRAP PCB.
I can just give you this link is all.
http://shoryuken.com/f177/2-pcbs-one-stick-possible-146124/
You can also replace the HRAP PCB with a Multi-Console Cthulhu.
Then you have PlayStation 3 and PlayStation/PlayStation 2 support on one PCB.
And can even go RJ-45 route to have detachable cables to make for one cable coming out at a time.
I couldn’t find an answer in the first post so here goes. I’m interested in replacing the balltop in my TE with a bat top. It’s one of the TE’s that launched with SSF4. Price doesn’t matter, just want a quality bat top to put in. Thanks!
There is only one Bat Top you can use; Sanwa LB-30N.
There are no other companies which make Bat Top for Japanese.
Or you can buy the Custom Aluminum Bat Top made by Toggleme.
Both can be found on Lizard Lick.
Or you can buy the Aluminum directly from Toggleme.
http://shoryuken.com/f226/wts-custom-aluminum-bat-tops-special-free-jlf-shaft-cover-236684/
Just don’t forget to get a Sanwa joystick adapter with the above. Would stink to forget to get a 50 cent piece, and have to pay for it shipped. T_T
I don’t like telling people that.
Because if they read descriptions, they would know.
Yes, I don’t want to be nice anymore.
I skip some Threads on purpose.
Laugh.
Thanks guys, much appreciated.
Late update because I’ve been busy with work and living situation!:
So I took the buttons out and I tap the terminals together to send input, my PC recognizes it but the 360 doesn’t for SSFIV.
Did I void my warranty/go through a bunch of effort for no good reason, or is there something actually the matter that I’m not aware of? In any case, I kept the original buttons juuuust in case, but from the looks of it now I think they’re actually fine. 
With the 360 pads that you need for dual modding. Can you use the Madcatz Street Fighter 4 Fightpads, or does it have to be their other 360 pads?
You can use Mad Catz FightPad.
It is actually recommended, because no Trigger work involved.
just making sure, the start/select buttons on the madcatz TE’s are obsf 24 mm’s correct?
Yes.
I dual modded my friend’s 360 Femme Fatale stick a couple weeks ago and I didn’t really pay attention when he said he had to replace the button for RT because it went out. I assumed he meant the button itself was busted from drunken gaming sessions.
Now RT is going out, but working when unplugged/replugged. It’s also having the same problem on PS3 with the R2 button. Could it be the 360 pcb is disrupting the R2 signal as well?
The only thing I can think to do is to swap the signal lines for the RB/LB/RT/LT to match that of the MvC2 TE stick configuration, then swap the MC Cthulhu’s wires to keep it in the default button layout for PS2/PS3/SNES.
360: btw, he’s going with a 6 button layout now.
X Y LB
A B RB
MC Cthulhu:
1P 2P 3P
1K 2K 3K
If I do this, should it be good to go? I mean, has anybody else that’s had problems with the 360 TE PCB’s triggers going out had other problems in the future?