8 button vs 6 button?
10 button. You only need 6 of course, but most sticks have 8 so you can have all of the shoulder buttons covered. But what about the thumbstick buttons? What happens if you need L3 and R3? Chaos, that is what.
Well that is one point of view, on my PC release i can map 11 and i have a 11 button “palm” layout for my fightstick, even if not “mappable” one could still use the same layout on console using diodes to isolate ppp, kkk, grab and focus and keep the rest of the mapping for the 6 regulars and “block”.
I am pretty sure you can do everything using directions and 6 regular buttons,as a matter of fact you can also play the game on a SNES gamepad if you like, ergonomics are one edge of your blade, if you like it to be blunt kudos to you but it is your loss, most of us like to sharpen it though.
i certainly hate when a jab goes out instead of a grab, and when a strong takes the place of a focus, my ultra is already crappy useles and difficult enough to pull without the needs of a missed tripple key press to top it off.
arcade version has 6 buttons why should i care, nobody plays arcade in my country in fact I haven’t seen an arcade cabinet anywhere for the last decade. Arcade also only features 8 characters, with that kind of argument should i refuse to play anyone sporting “rose” or “fei long” because they are not on “arcade” ???
water plus soap(dish soap is great) on a soft piece of cloth is your best bet, least agressive, no problems with health.
if not working enough denatured alcohol (cleaning alcohol) will do most of the time depending on the
type of plexi you have for the top, if you happen to have a spare part of that material do a test on that part.
third choice is firestart alcool or “acetone” more risks of irreversible damage to plexi though, use rubber gloves to protect your skin they can trigger allergies, also try not to breathe the fumes…
white spirit is probably the most risky as a long enough exposure is an almost guaranteed loss of translucency, use gloves and don’t breathe the fumes.
No matter how many Macro Buttons you make, Street Fighter is still a 6-Button game.
All Street Fighter, except for the very first release, has only six main actions.
That is what I am talking about.
Not Button Layout or number of buttons.
Do not use acetone or alcohol if you have an tek-innovations plexi. It will cause your plexi to crack.
Hello everyone, I wanted to see if anyone could answer 2 quick questions for me. I have a MC 360 fightpad that I’m attempting to padhack and it seems as though the copper connection for the USB’s 5v came off of the pcb while I attempted to desolder the cord. Is there any way to salvage the pcb?
Also what is a good way of cleaning a pcb after padhacking?
I was going through the exact same issue when I went from pad to stick. So what I ended up doing was swapping out the stock square restrictor plate and replacing it with an octagonal plate. If you’re the kind of player that likes to ride your restrictor plate (like I do), you might want to look into this. When I made this swap, it was SUCH a huge and immediate improvement to my game! While still not throwing quarter-circle motions 100% of the time, the plate swap improved my ratio from about a 30% success rate to an 80% success rate. With a little extra time, I was able to make it 100%. 
**
method 1 not too ghetto**
find womewhere on the pcb where the 5 v circuit is 2 mm broad,scrub the varnish there , pierce the circuit there with a tiny drill (make sure the is no printing on the other side before you do that), solder the 5 v wire there.
method 2 much more ghetto
well what you will want to try is remove the coating on something like 5 milimeters or more of the 5v wire
use a sharp precision flat screwdrive or anything in that taste and scrub the insulation varnish on the 5 v circuit on the pcb anyhere where you can find the broadest area or circuit, if you havn’t such a place find somewhere you have 1 cm of straight printing. try to be carefull here you will want to avoid scrubing other circuits close to this one
prepare the naked part of the wire by heating it on your soldering iron and coating it with soldering stain, dont put too much you just need the stain to coat the wire, you dont want a big drop of stain to stick there.
prepare the scrubbed pcb area by heating it and coating it with soldering stain,it is an important step but don’t overdo-it or the printed copper si going to come off the board here as well, you don’t want that to happen a second time.
now solder the prepared wire to the prepared scrubbed area in a way that the wire is bound to the copper printed circuit on as long as possible ideally 5mm or so.
don’t pull anything from now and be very gentle when you manipulate the board.
get some glue (universal purpose glue/ vynil glue for wood things like that) put a big large drop of that glue all around the ghetto soldering, it is going to insulate the bond again, and drastically improve the mechanical resilience of the joint.
method 3 ultra ghetto
find some leg of a component soldered to the +5 v circuit, big enough for you to feel comfortable soldering a wire onto it, you will want to avoid the MCU if it has tiny legs, and every other micro component, try to find a good old capacitor/resistor it is you best bet. if you have a regular size mcu with big pins you can give it a shot as a measure of last resort.
prepare the wire as describe in method 2, you can now solder that to the leg of the component, or if more convenient, on the other side right in the joint where the component is bound to the pcb.
here again dont pull anything before having drenched it in glue or it is very likely it is going to come off.
apart from method 1 which is very much likely to cause you no trouble if you have the correct tools, the 2nd and especially the 3rd can further damage you pcb, train the method on a pcb you dont care about once or twice before doing it on the real one.
I did a full 8 button + stick mod hack using exclusively method 2 and 3 on a ripped logitech precision gamepad pcb and it works flawlessly.
once you have finished fon’t bother cleaning your pcb, check that there are no shorts, bind what looks weak with glue, insulate naked copper with glue, your pcb will look like shit but it doen’t need to be beautifull or clean to work well.
Quick questions about the TE-S edition:
-
Can you remove the art under the top plexi or whatever with minimal fuss?
-
Is it true there is a sharp-ish edge along the bottom where your wrists rest?
Also - I’m having this strange issue with my PS3 Slim. Where if I run it for any length of time, it makes creaking and popping noises, as if there is some kind of thermal expansion going on in the plastic of the chassis. Is this an issue I should worry about with respect to the functionality of the system? It hasn’t had any problems with crashing or w/e.
Can remove, yes.
No, not sharp.
ok so i guess i will ask this here…ordered new stick parts over a month and a half ago from lizardlick (i live in canada) they still havent shown up…lizardlick says they cant do shit for me cuz they cant track the order once its been shiped. and paypal says they cant do shit cuz its been over 45 days…wtf do i do?? im prertty much ready to cut my losses an order them again from another site
well check out how law works in you country, in mine the seller has to prove it was delivered to you or send another one at their expense minus the shipping fees.
The seller is free to sue the transporter for their loss but the receiver doesn’t have to get involved, since the transporter has to prove to the seller they delivered the package.
As this is all almost impossible, in my country serious online retailers never bother asking questions and they send a double when you complain. Because they don’t like the bad advertisement of the kind you just made for lizardlick and they know they ll lose if the buyer hand the case to their insurance.
As a matter of fact serious sellers in my country never send stuff by regular mail orders and resort to insured, tracked and delivery aknowledgement mail services.
Ok, I just bought the asus 2ms monitor similar to the one evo uses, however i have a problem. I have an old school xbox 360 that doesn’t have the hdmi plug in the back. All it’s got is the standard av cable input cable.
Now I’ve done some google searching but I don’t know exact names of cables and ports and such, so I need help figuring out what cable I need to connect my 360 to the monitor I just bought. Any help would be appreciated, and I can try to give further clarification if needed. Thanks!
edit: guess i should have looked into this a lot more before buying the monitor, its beginning to look like there’s no solution…fuck
Buy a VGA cable for your Xbox360
When bending Sanwa button prongs for QDs, what tool should i use or should i use my own hands? After bending, can i remove and put back on QDs like normal?
Hey guys, question.
I was thinking of buying a new stick but I’m bit lost of which one I want to get.
I would like to have a PS2 stick that I can buy for around $20-$75 used.
What do you guys recommend? I was looking at a HRAP2SA, but I seems like I can’t find any.
I was also thinking if I should just wait for the BlazBlue : Continuum Shift TE.
Any suggestions will be helpful, thanks.
If you want a PS2 stick, the TE isn’t going to do you much good (on account of being PS3 [or 360?] only).
You should check out the Trading Outlet here on SRK (someone might have a PS2 stick for sale), but be wary of anything too cheap - you do get what you pay for.
Do you know where can I buy a Plexi to mod a Mad Catz SE in Europe?
No one has made.
The curve makes for problem.